Friends, over the past three years, is there a place that’s been tugging at your heartstrings? Due to the pandemic, I missed a chance for an RV road trip last October. The plan was to start from Kashi in Xinjiang and travel across half of China back to Hangzhou. Because I couldn’t go, Xinjiang remains my heart’s unfulfilled desire.
Honestly, I don’t think anyone can resist Xinjiang.
Ancient legends and splendid cultures intertwine on this land. In summer, there’s lush greenery; in autumn, golden hues; in winter, pristine white snow. Each season offers a dazzling array of colors.
Whether it’s spring or autumn, winter or summer, south Xinjiang or north Xinjiang, there’s always a reason to visit Xinjiang. Yet every winter, what attracts me most is Altay.
Altay is in northern Xinjiang. No exaggeration, but northern Xinjiang in winter is extraordinarily captivating! Our friend Leilei has also introduced the winter activities in northern Xinjiang before. Checking out places that were unaffordable five years ago but now have discounted tickets!
Recently, a senior photographer friend of mine was coincidentally there. The photos he took are breathtakingly beautiful 😭 (also made me envious to tears).
Altay has been radiating its charm since ancient times.
Located at the golden latitude in the northernmost part of the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region, each winter, names like Kanas, Hemu, Burqin, Koktokay… resonate as dreams for travelers.
It is “the origin of human skiing” and truly “China’s Snow Capital.” The ancient fur skiing embodies the deepest ice and snow culture. All the delightful winter experiences you can imagine can be traced in Altay.
In winter Altay, you can quench your thirst with mare’s milk, and satisfy your hunger with hand-held meat and grilled lamb chops. You can completely let go of all urban constraints and indulge wildly like the Kazakhs.
Today’s article is a comprehensive guide to winter in Altay, so those who are interested, take note!
How to Get to Altay
By Plane ✈️: Altay has an airport, but flights are relatively few. You’ll need to purchase tickets based on your region’s situation. Make sure to check if you can bring your skis. Currently, there are flights to Altay from Xi’an, Zhengzhou, Urumqi, Yining, Karamay, and Korla.
You can also transfer from Urumqi to Altay, which takes about an hour.
After arriving at the airport, you can take a taxi to the city, about 15 kilometers away, costing around 40 yuan.
By Train 🚄: Altay Railway Station has two daily round-trip trains to Urumqi, and there are tourist buses at the station entrance that go directly to the city.
Local Taxis 🚕: Altay’s starting taxi fare is 5 yuan; transportation is quite convenient and affordable.
Local Buses 🚌: City bus fare is 1 yuan, with routes like 1, 2, 3, and 101. A highlight, you must take bus route 101. It starts at Fuhai Forest Farm and ends at Shariful Khan Park. The park is stunning, attracting photographers year-round.
A reminder: if you want to see Altay in winter, the best time is from late October to early April, when the scenery is at its finest.
The Origin of Human Skiing
If you visit Altay, you must go skiing.
As early as 10,000 to 30,000 years ago, the people of Altay invented skis for their daily production and activities. They continuously improved these skis and spread the knowledge worldwide. The region boasts mountain formations like the Rockies, sunshine akin to the Alps, snow quality comparable to Hokkaido in Japan, and a unique windless climate with an extended snow period. It stands as a renowned skiing destination both domestically and internationally.
When it comes to skiing, these are the key ski resorts you should focus on.
General Mountain Ski Resort
Address: 40 General Mountain Road, Altay City
If you plan to visit just one ski resort, then General Mountain is the one to go for without any hesitation. It is the only alpine ski resort located within a city in the country, and it has two ski trails certified by the International Ski Federation (FIS).
@General Mountain Ski Resort, Altay City
Currently, the resort has 58 completed ski trails totaling 65 kilometers. The area for artificial snow on these trails covers 1.85 million square meters, while off-trail areas for natural snow exceed 3 million square meters. The greatest vertical drop on the trails is 460 meters. Additionally, there are 8 lifts, 8 magic carpets, and a 140,000 square meter practice area for beginners and intermediate skiers.
@General Mountain Ski Resort, Altay City
To cater to various levels of skiing enthusiasts, the resort has built a BK Ski Park, a Flow Line Park, a mini park, and an amateur halfpipe, among other diverse terrains. In essence, every visitor can find their ideal ski run at General Mountain.
Lastly, I’ve made a ticket price chart for your reference.
Keketuohai International Ski Resort
Address: Fuyun County, Altay City
Even though Keketuohai is relatively remote and not easily accessible, the quality powder snow here makes it effortlessly captivating for a multitude of visitors.
By the name itself, you can guess that this ski resort is situated within the Keketuohai Scenic Area and has been designated as a 5S ski resort.
The resort is mainly divided into an alpine competition area, a public ski area, a skills area, a Nordic training center, and an off-trail area. The ski trail area covers 1.95 million square meters, with off-trail areas spanning 5.92 million square meters. It even has the steepest black diamond run in the country. Whether you are a novice or a seasoned pro, this ski resort can meet all your needs.
Jikepulin International Resort
Address: Jikepulin Area, Hemu Township, Kanas Scenic Area, Altay City
If you are located near Hemu Village, then the Jikepulin Ski Resort is your best choice, as it is only 7 kilometers away from Hemu Village.
### Translation
On the 23rd of last month, the opening ceremony of the ski resort officially began. Because of its moderate altitude and the fact that it experiences little wind in winter, it provides a comfortable feeling, making it the top choice for many friends.
It is also the largest ski resort in Asia, with skiable areas all over the mountains. Additionally, the ski resort boasts the largest vertical drop in China, at 1415 meters.
At the opening ceremony last month, all 103 ski trails were fully opened, making it even more enjoyable.
The following image shows the ticket prices. Since the ski resort is located within Hemu Village, in addition to the ski resort ticket, you also need to purchase the Hemu winter all-area ticket, which costs 100 yuan per person for 3 days. The ticket includes Kanas, Baihaba, and Hemu Village.
#### Tips for Skiing Beginners
1. **Waterproof Ski Clothes and Gloves**
The outdoor temperature in Altay during winter is generally between minus twenty and thirty degrees Celsius, which is extremely cold. Before coming, you must prepare for the cold weather. Make sure to bring a windbreaker and a down jacket, and it is also recommended to prepare lightweight and waterproof ski clothes.
2. **Protective Gear**
Whether you are a professional skier or not, for personal safety, please purchase or rent protective gear in advance before entering the ski resort. Knee pads, helmets, and goggles are essential.
#### Ski Resort Bus Schedule
#### Beyond the Ski Resort
Don’t miss out on the local unique experiences.
**Horse-Drawn Sleigh**
Many friends have probably seen such scenes in movies, where a wooden sleigh glides through thick snow.
In the deep snow of Altay, even the best cars have to give way, but a horse-drawn sleigh can glide gracefully like a light boat. It is truly the “BMW of the snowfields.”
Currently, in Altay, horse-drawn sleighs have also become a popular ice and snow entertainment project. You can enter Hemu Village, sit on a horse-drawn sleigh, and delve into the heart of this snow country, experiencing the unique local customs. It really feels like traveling into a fairy tale world.
**Exploring Tuva Villages**
The Tuva Village is located in the river valley on the south bank of Kanas Lake and is a must-pass on the way from Burqin County to Kanas. Currently, about 2000 Tuva people still live in the Tuva Village, with a long history recorded in ancient documents.
The Tuva people are the “Wuliang people” recorded in the late Qing Dynasty’s “Xinjiang Gazetteer,” who have inherited traditional lifestyles for generations.
In summer, the surroundings are picturesque with clear mountains and waters, while in winter, it is surrounded by heavy snow.
### Translation
From a distance, Tuva Village looks like a small European village, with pine trees scattered here and there beside the cottages, all tall and straight.
The Tuva people are particularly warm and hospitable. You can enter any household at random, and the host will warmly entertain you. As soon as you sit down, they will serve you butter tea and milk wine.
I also found an interesting fact: when drinking milk tea in a Tuva household, you must drink two bowls because you walked in on two legs. After drinking two bowls of milk tea, you walk out on two legs again, symbolizing good luck and peace.
### Horse Riding in the Snow
Taking advantage of the good sunlight, riding a fine horse across the grassland is a common activity for most travelers. However, in Altay, riding a horse through the snow-covered grassland is truly a cool experience.
Mount the horse and, under the guidance of the Tuva people, traverse the forest and snowfields, leaving deep and shallow footprints in the snow. Under the vast expanse of ice and snow, explore the silent fairyland deep in the snow region. Here, you will discover some of the most beautiful snow scenes in China, an experience that is absolutely unique.
### Camping on the Ranch
In Oymyakon, I was moved by a couple who camped in the extreme cold weather of minus fifty degrees Celsius. That truly requires strong physical fitness and courage.
Many people also want to try camping in the snow. I recommend everyone to camp on the ranch near Altay.
You can bring your own camping equipment and warm clothing, set up tents with the locals on the ranch, raise a canopy, light a bonfire, and brew a cup of snow mountain coffee, quietly enjoying the winter snowfields of Altay.
### Ulungur Lake Winter Fishing Festival
The Ulungur Lake Winter Fishing Festival grandly opens on January 7th and lasts for three days. This year is the sixteenth edition. The “winter fishing” activity is actually a traditional fishing method of Ulungur Lake in Fuhai County, Xinjiang, with a history of 59 years.
Here, you can not only watch the magical and spectacular winter fishing scenes and experience the ice and snow culture of the northern country, but also enjoy a variety of ice entertainment activities and local culture, such as the blessing culture, gold and jade culture, and cold-water fish cuisine culture, satisfying both your eyes and taste buds.
Although the fishing festival only lasts for three days, some activities will continue until early February, so you can still experience them now.
### Winter in Altay
Where else is worth visiting?
### Birch Forest Park
**Address:** Located in a river beach area upstream of the Kelan River in the northwest corner of Altay City
**Transportation:** Direct access by bus routes 101 and 3
**Winter Admission Time:** 09:00-22:00
Tickets: Free
There are two key things about this park: it’s free and it’s perfect for photography. Located just 2 kilometers north of Altay City in the Kran Valley, it’s not too far of a journey. If you’re looking to capture some stunning winter atmosphere photos, this is definitely the place to be.
The Kran River divides the park into several small islands, which are dotted with many paper birches, white poplars, and silver poplars. In winter, the park is covered in a thick blanket of snow, creating a breathtakingly beautiful scene.
It is said that Birch Forest Park also goes by the name “Governor’s Island,” named after a governor who used to escape the summer heat here. In the 1940s, a conflict in the Arashan area led to the forest being destroyed by war.
What we see today are almost all secondary forests that naturally regenerated later, and the trees are no older than 50 years. Nevertheless, thanks to vigorous growth, the birch forest has regained its former glory.
The silver-white tree trunks shine brightly in the sunlight, and it’s no exaggeration to say that every view is picturesque, offering photo opportunities at every turn.
You can happily romp around in a forest of white birch, with snow deep enough to reach your calves, making you feel like you’re in a fairy tale world.
Chonghuer Town Frost Scenery
Address: Northwest of Burqin County, 70 kilometers from the county seat
Tickets: Free
Frost rime is neither ice nor snow, but it is a mysterious gift from heaven to the earth. During winter in Altay, you can see it almost everywhere.
However, my friends from the south always get particularly excited when they see frost rime, as it is a rare sight for them.
The best place to appreciate frost rime is Chonghuer Town. Departing from Burqin and heading towards Hemu Kanasi, it takes about an hour to reach there. From the end of November to the end of February is the most awe-inspiring season in Chonghuer.
“Chonghuer” means “basin” in Kazakh, and this town indeed feels like a basin surrounded by mountains.
Chonghuer Town is a must-pass place on the way to Kanasi. If you have enough time, you can drive yourself to see it.
Exploring Hemu Road
Hemu Road is often hailed as one of the most beautiful self-drive routes in Xinjiang. Along the way, you’ll find villages, grassland pastures, deep canyons, and lakes all covered in pristine white snow, creating a pure and overwhelming beauty.
The starting point is at Kanasi going towards Terhsahan, connecting with the S232 line (the Kanasi to Burqin tourist road), and it ends right in the center of Hemu Village, spanning about 49 kilometers.
People say that Hemu Road in autumn is like a path leading to “God’s private land.” In my opinion, Hemu Road in winter is a road leading to a mysterious fairy tale kingdom.
Along this route, whether it’s the stunning Tuva village, the colorful masterpiece of nature that is Kanasi Lake, or the incredibly blue waters of Moon Bay between the mountains, everything makes it hard to leave such a wonderland.
Wubaili Cultural Street
Address: Street within Altay City
Wubaili Cultural Street is a bustling local market named to symbolize the 265-kilometer length of the Kelan River. Built along this river, the street lights up Altay’s nightlife, predominantly featuring Northern European architectural styles. Walking through it feels like a journey to Europe.
The night market gathers various unique products, local snacks, and outdoor bazaars.
Here, you can taste distinctive horse milk wine, cold-water fish… and encounter the enthusiastic black horse. The entire street is imbued with the rich “flavor of Altay.”
Make sure to visit the Wubaili Café, a great place to experience local folk culture. Not only can you enjoy coffee and wine, but also performances featuring the dombra, throat singing, and Tielme, showcasing strong local characteristics.
Extreme Cold Weather
How to Eat to Warm Your Heart and Stomach
Grilled Dogfish
When in Altay, you must try the grilled dogfish. This cold-water fish, nurtured by the Irtysh and Ulungur rivers, is known for having few bones and firm meat.
@Zhang
Because it is all-natural, pollution-free, and has a long growth cycle, “Altay cold-water fish is delicious” has become a well-known label. Though I haven’t been to Xinjiang yet to taste it myself.
@Cat Prince Bee King
I’ve heard from many friends that its meat is particularly tender and more delicious when grilled over charcoal. If you visit Altay, definitely give it a try.
Authentic Xinjiang Big Plate Chicken
Xinjiang is famous for its fruits, and its chicken, duck, and fish dishes are uniquely flavored, especially the well-known Big Plate Chicken, a must-try in Xinjiang.
Big Plate Chicken incorporates various nutritious elements, including chunks of chicken, vegetables, and staples, making it diverse, affordable, and filling.
Being from Shanxi, I’m always finding different noodle dishes in Hangzhou. The spicy yet fragrant, rough yet delicate taste of Big Plate Chicken appeals to me. I’m looking forward to trying authentic Xinjiang Big Plate Chicken someday.
Boer Sack
Boer Sack is a Kazakh snack usually eaten at breakfast, similar to the way Han people enjoy you tiao and soy milk. Boer Sack and milk tea are also a perfect match.
Golden, crispy baursaki paired with spicy red soup and small side dishes, accompanied by a steaming bowl of milk tea, instantly recharges your energy for the day.
Hand-Grasped Meat
When visiting Xinjiang, eating meat is undoubtedly a top priority.
