As we all know, autumn in Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Shanghai is fleeting. In the south without central heating, the most delightful thought in winter is a steaming hot spring. Once you immerse yourself, all worldly troubles can be momentarily forgotten.
*Image by Traveler Siyuan
Unfortunately, the region of Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Shanghai is not like Yunnan, which has abundant natural volcanic resources. Up to 80% of the hot springs here might be artificially heated boiler water.
However, genuine hot springs do exist. The most renowned is undoubtedly Nanjing’s Tangshan, and next in line is the lesser-known but enchanting town of Liyang, under the jurisdiction of Changzhou City in Jiangsu Province, which we will discuss in this article.
In the “backyard list” of Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Shanghai residents, Liyang doesn’t rank very high; Moganshan, Anji, and Qiandao Lake are much more famous. But once autumn and winter arrive, Liyang’s natural hot spring advantage becomes apparent.
Moreover, Liyang’s geographical location is quite remarkable, situated at the junction of Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Anhui provinces. The convenience of transportation for Jiangsu residents goes without saying.
For citizens of the Nanjing metropolitan area, many attractions in Liyang are now free of charge, such as Nanshan Bamboo Sea and Tianmu Lake Scenic Area. The original ticket prices were not cheap, each around a hundred yuan, and even the Yushui Hot Spring offers significant discounts.
*The Nanjing metropolitan area, spanning across Jiangsu and Anhui, includes Changzhou’s Liyang and Jintan
You might find it hard to believe, but the high-speed train from Hangzhou to Liyang takes less than an hour, and driving takes just over two hours. A weekend getaway of two days and one night is stress-free.
Cities nurtured by lakes generally have a gentle temperament. Tianmu Lake, for instance, might be more well-known than Liyang itself, comparable to Qiandao Lake.
Tianmu Lake is flanked by Taihu Lake to the east, the Yangtze River to the north, the ancient capital of the Six Dynasties to the west, and the undulating Tianmu Mountains to the south. It boasts beautiful mountains and clear waters, fragrant tea, and fresh fish. Compared to West Lake, it has a more expansive feel.
Liyang also has a vast bamboo sea, “Paradise Nanshan, Dreamy Bamboo Sea.” Nanshan Bamboo Sea is home to 35,000 acres of lush bamboo, where even in the height of summer, the temperature remains cool, making it a true natural oxygen bar.
A cup of Tianmu Lake white tea is refreshing. A bowl of Tianmu Lake fish head soup in a clay pot is so delicious it’s intoxicating.
The farm dishes of the land of fish and rice, besides fish, also feature glutinous rice. Black rice dyed with South China bayberry leaves, eaten directly with white sugar, is a comforting rural delicacy.
A vacation is all about good accommodation and good food. Although Liyang is relatively weak in terms of “play,” adding a (hot spring) “soak” makes the winter experience absolutely top-notch.
Please keep the following “Liyang ‘Soak, Play, Eat, and Stay’ Vacation Guide” handy. When you’re tired, just set off~
Soak: The Premier Hot Spring in the Yangtze River Delta
A few years ago, Cai Cai and other travel influencers conducted a firsthand test of 15 “genuine hot springs” in the Yangtze River Delta, with Liyang’s Tianmu Lake Yushui Hot Spring and Meijie Mountain Wild Hot Spring performing exceptionally well. There’s also the Hantian Half-Mountain Hot Spring, which was not tested but is quite famous locally in Liyang.
Sharing a bit of hot knowledge, the corresponding hot spring hotels for these three resorts, Meijie is the most expensive, with the room rate including the hot spring ticket, while Hantian and Yushui may not, possibly requiring a separate purchase of the hot spring ticket (with discounts). If you’re not staying at the hotel, you can still buy a hot spring ticket directly.
**Yu Shui Hot Spring** – A Very Poetic Open-Air Bamboo Tip Hot Spring
🎫 Adult: 198 RMB, Child: 128 RMB (Urban Circle: 128 RMB)
🕰 2:00 PM – 9:00 PM
Yu Shui Hot Spring is one of China’s top ten hot springs, offering a rare national 5A-rated carbonic acid hydrogen calcium hot spring. The entire hot spring area is surrounded by endless bamboo forests, right next to the Nanshan Bamboo Sea.
There are six major hot spring zones, each containing over a dozen small pools. The pinnacle (and most luxurious) is the Bamboo Tip Hot Spring Zone, where the pools are perched on bamboo tips, creating a very poetic atmosphere. Soaking here feels like you’re elevating your entire being.
*Image by @Cycy
In addition, there are highly private couple zones, a medicinal herb-infused area that feels like you’re boiling in traditional Chinese medicine, a rustic natural zone that makes the most of its surroundings, a dynamic zone where you can feel the vigorous flow of the spring, and special pools. The special pools include two dry pools: a mineral sand bath and a sea salt bath, truly burying you alive.
Although the pools under each zone are not large, their abundance means you won’t feel like you’re constantly “boiling dumplings.” For those who like to take photos, it’s recommended to soak “from top to bottom,” starting with the Bamboo Tip Hot Spring (most photogenic) and then moving downwards.
*Image by @Journey of Golden Eggs
The hot spring’s facilities are also top-notch, with indoor swimming pools and rest areas. The resort even thoughtfully considers the needs of children, with dedicated children’s pools, ensuring excellent service.
**Hotels**
The most convenient option is the official partner, the “Tianmu Lake Yu Shui Hot Spring Resort Hotel,” which offers great value and is just downstairs from the hot spring.
There is also the “Liyang Yu Shui Hot Spring · Bamboo Creek Valley,” where rooms are standalone villas, directly drawing Yu Shui Hot Spring water into the rooms, featuring private hot spring pools with excellent privacy. Of course, the hotel prices are also among the highest in Liyang.
**Han Tian Half-Mountain Hot Spring** – Lakeside “Cliff” Pools with a View from the Summit
🎫 Adult: 198 RMB, Child: 98 RMB
🕰 1:00 PM – 10:00 PM
Han Tian Hot Spring, like Yu Shui Hot Spring, is located on a hillside. Although it is not as large as Yu Shui, Han Tian is very close to Tianmu Lake, so in addition to the mountain views, you can also enjoy a private lake view.
The lakeside view is from these cliff-side pools on the hillside, offering a very open view.
Han Tian has a total of 44 pools, including lakeside pools, and outdoor hot springs with milk pools, red wine pools, fish pools, and colorful pools… The pools are separated by bamboo forests and flowers, combining natural charm with privacy.
The indoor hot spring club also features full-body massage pools, shoulder and neck relaxation pools… If your skin gets wrinkled from soaking, there are also saunas, multi-functional steam rooms, ice therapy rooms, and dry saunas to help you recover.
If you’re after scenery, Han Tian is the place to choose. It’s the only one where you can soak in the hot springs while taking in the entire view of Tianmu Lake. Pair that with a cup of Tianmu Lake white tea, and it’s truly worth it.
**Hotel**
The official partner is the “Tianmu Lake Han Tian Resort,” which occupies a bay of Tianmu Lake. It boasts a large area, comprehensive facilities, and a rich variety of entertainment options. There’s a children’s playground, a dock, a church, a mountaintop tea bar, and even experiences like go-karting, archery, and axe throwing… Suitable for all ages, and great value for money.
**Mei Jie Mountain Wild Hot Springs** – Usually enjoyed in conjunction with the hotel
🎫 Adult: 196 RMB, Child: 99 RMB
🕰 2pm-10:30pm
Mei Jie Hot Springs are hidden in the Longtan Forest, with water sourced from 1,788 meters underground. The water is rich in beneficial minerals and trace elements, making it a true wild hot spring.
*Image by @
Compared to the hot springs at Yu Shui and Han Tian, Mei Jie has fewer pools, just nine in total. These pools are built into the mountainside, hidden at the edge of cliffs, in the midst of forests, and on mountaintops, surrounded by mist.
*Image by @nothing
Few people visit Mei Jie just for the hot springs; it’s usually combined with the “Mei Jie Resort Hotel.”
Mei Jie manages 2,500 acres of mountain tea gardens, with 31 independent treehouse villas scattered throughout the natural landscape, creating a sense of seclusion. Villas with two bedrooms come with a private hot spring pool offering a 270° view.
*Image by @
The independent villas are perfect for family trips, though the price is also among the highest in Liyang.
**Play: What else besides Nanshan Bamboo Sea?**
If you’re only visiting Liyang for a two-day, one-night trip, planning the itinerary is a breeze. The standard combination is the Yu Shui Hot Springs and Nanshan Bamboo Sea, with the two attractions just a ten-minute walk apart.
**Nanshan Bamboo Sea**
🎫 Adult: 80 RMB (190 RMB with round-trip cable car and train, free for urban area residents)
🕰 8:30am-5:30pm
*Image by @🌚
Nanshan Bamboo Sea is one of the few “fun” spots in Liyang, making it the perfect destination for summer visits.
The entire scenic area spans 35,000 acres, and walking the entire distance is an impossible task; it would take a good half-day to fully explore. Within the endless expanse of bamboo, ground trains and cable cars traverse the landscape. Although the “ticket” prices are a bit steep, they save a lot of walking effort.
Image @Traveling Cassimodo
Within the Nanshan Bamboo Sea lies the ancient village of Jiming. The name originates from Liyang’s location at the junction of Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Anhui provinces, where the rooster’s crow can be heard across all three provinces.
*Image @Wuli Taotao🌚
Due to its unique geographical factors, the Jiming Ancient Village features white walls and black tiles, combining the solemnity of Huizhou-style towns with the gentle charm of Jiangnan’s small bridges and flowing waters.
The village houses Qing Dynasty ancestral halls, Ming Dynasty ancient residences, and a traditional theater where lion dance performances are held daily.
The Panda Pavilion is also located here, home to two pandas named “Huali” and “Xing’an.” Whether you get to see them depends on luck; if you visit in the afternoon, they are likely to be sleeping undisturbed.
*Image @Han Xiaojing, aka Kao Mei
The Wu Yue Observation Area requires a ride on an aerial cableway to reach the top, where the Wu Yue First Peak stands. The use of “Di” instead of “Di” in the name is officially explained by the vast bamboo forest serving as the most fitting backdrop. In reality, it might be that this “first” is not entirely deserving.
A drawback of the Nanshan Bamboo Sea is the relatively high cost of transportation within the park. It’s advisable to purchase a bundled ticket that includes transportation when buying admission.
**Tianmu Lake Landscape Garden**
🎫 Adult ticket plus boat ticket: 160 RMB (free admission for urban area residents)
🕰 8:30am-5:30pm
*Image @Wuli Taotao🌚
Besides the Nanshan Bamboo Sea, Tianmu Lake is another unavoidable attraction in Liyang. Compared to the Bamboo Sea, its recreational value is significantly lower. Like West Lake, you know it’s beautiful, but it’s hard to pinpoint exactly what makes it fun.
The paid attraction on Tianmu Lake is the Tianmu Lake Landscape Garden. Personally, I find it unnecessary; it looks stunning from afar, but upon entering, it feels like a “rip-off.” The over 100 RMB ticket only grants access to a small island. To visit Longxing Island and China Tea Island, you need to purchase another boat ticket, and the islands are heavily commercialized.
It’s far more enjoyable to take a leisurely stroll around Tianmu Lake near Hantian, which is even more beautiful.
If you plan to stay in Liyang for a couple more days, consider visiting Wawoo Mountain, located farther from the city center. This is a primitive forest with the title “Little Jiuhua.”
Due to incomplete development, it is relatively less crowded and more tranquil, offering a more rustic charm. Self-driving is the best option.
We traveled along the popular Rainbow Road No. 1 in Liyang, a route that isn’t overly crowded but offers spectacular scenery. The winding mountain road leads to the top, where you’ll find a treasure trove of a temple complex that doesn’t require an entrance fee, complete with a scenic viewing platform at the summit.
At the foot of Mount Wa and near the Goddess Lake, it’s perfect for family picnics and camping. Kids can even wade into the lake to catch small fish.
*Image credit: @Qi Se MOMO
By the way, Liyang’s Rainbow Road No. 1 spans 365 kilometers. It not only connects the three mountains—Nanshan, Caoshan, and Wawu Mountain—but also passes by Tianmu Lake and Changtan Lake, offering breathtaking views all along the way without any speed bumps.
It’s not only ideal for car and motorcycle road trips but also very bicycle-friendly.
Image credit: @Traveling Cassimodo
**Eating: Liyang’s Local Favorites—”Three Whites and Three Blacks”**
In Liyang’s culinary memory, there are always the “Three Whites and Three Blacks.” The Three Whites refer to Tianmu Lake Fish Head Hot Pot, Tianmu Lake White Celery, and White Tea. The Three Blacks include Yanshuixun (a type of mushroom), Black Rice, and Zagang (a local delicacy).
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The Tianmu Lake Fish Head Soup, cooked until it turns milky white, infuses the fish’s tenderness into the broth. One bowl is never enough. There’s a hidden way to enjoy the fish inside—dip it in vinegar before eating. Trust me, if you were to eat it blindly, you’d swear you’re eating crab meat.
White Celery looks like yellow chives at first glance but tastes refreshingly similar to regular celery, yet incredibly tender.
Among the Three Blacks, Yanshuixun, also known as “Pine Milk Mushroom,” is a wild mushroom unique to the Nanshan region of Liyang. These mushrooms mostly grow during spring and autumn, and their names are related to their growing seasons.
*Image from “A Bite of China 2”
Those that grow during the lunar month of February, when swallows are nesting, are called “Yanlai Xun,” while those that appear during the autumn when geese return are called “Yanshuixun.” Interestingly, they both carry a hint of melancholy associated with the changing seasons.
Currently, during the season of continuous autumn rain, it’s also the harvest time for Yanshuixun. Common dishes include Yanshuixun with tofu, stir-fried Nanshan chestnuts, and chicken. Yanshuixun has a tender, chewy texture with a wild, seasonal freshness.
Black Rice, familiar to friends from the Jiangnan region, gets its dark color from the juice of crushed Nanzhu leaves. The fragrant rice, dipped in sugar, is delicious whether eaten cold or hot, and doesn’t need any side dishes to make a satisfying meal. During the Qingming season, besides green dumplings, the most memorable food is Black Rice.
*Image credit: @Ren Yunli
Zagang is another local specialty in Liyang, where pork intestines wrap around tofu, lean meat, pork liver, and dried bamboo shoots, then are tied and stewed to perfection. One bite and the flavors linger endlessly.
*Image credit: @Refuse the Moon 99 Times
Of course, the local farm dishes in Liyang are far more than just that. There are also braised bamboo shoots, old chicken soup, red-cooked fish tails, and wind-dried goose… The point of visiting Liyang is to enjoy various mountain delicacies, which are fresh enough in their original flavors!
Recommended restaurants: Millennium Big Fish Head, Gaoshan Gang Restaurant, Zhenwei Hall, etc.
Finally, let’s summarize how to stay in Liyang. Generally, following the hot springs is the most reliable option. The hot spring hotels mentioned above can basically meet the needs of couples, families, or group outings, and you can choose based on your budget.
In addition, there is also a WEI in Liyang, which is a national brand. It occupies a peninsula on Tianmu Lake, surrounded by water on three sides, and most of the rooms are lake-view, offering direct views of Tianmu Lake. Cai Cai Zi previously wrote a review, which you can find here 👉 Winter trip to Tianmu Lake is far superior to Thousand Island Lake.
I believe the correct way to experience Liyang is to find a hot spring resort, “soak” well, “lie” well, and eat and drink well. Cities can be tiring, but Liyang is the best place for a recharge. A two-day or three-day trip can make you “fully revived.”
