In another week, the jacarandas will be in bloom. Apart from Xichang, which I’ve written about before, Kunming is the most beautiful place in China to see jacarandas.
Although Kunming’s jacarandas may not be as extensive as those in Xichang, it has the advantage of being a transportation hub. If you find the trip to Xichang too troublesome, Kunming is the optimal choice.
Although in most cases, it merely serves as a transit point to other prefecture-level cities in Yunnan, the more often I visit Kunming, the more I appreciate its charm.
Thinking differently, Kunming could indeed be a versatile travel destination.
Kunming boasts top-notch flower markets and bazaars, vibrant markets that rival those in Dali, and for just 10 yuan, you can enjoy a delicious meal in a local eatery, use the change to buy bird feed, and spend the afternoon feeding seagulls at Dianchi Lake…
It doesn’t have any spectacular attractions or grand festivals like the Water Splashing Festival, but what Kunming excels in is “low-cost happiness.”
I remember the years when Dali was hailed as a “Utopia on Earth,” and stories of selling houses to open guesthouses in Dali would surface from time to time. But you don’t have to go to Dali; the old Kunming residents also live a balanced life.
After finishing my previous job, I took a break. After completing the Rock Circuit, I planned to return to Hangzhou via Kunming, but ended up staying for nearly half a month, busy with tea-drinking, sunbathing, and chatting, almost writing the word “comfortable” on my forehead.
For Kunming, which enjoys spring-like weather all year round, there are only two seasons: “time suitable for travel” and “especially suitable time for travel.”
I would say that the jacaranda season is an especially suitable time for travel in Kunming.
I hope the pandemic eases in April, so I can fly to the Spring City to extend the spring season.
1
Springtime in Kunming is the most suitable city for strolling.
If you happen to visit Kunming during the jacaranda season, you must stroll along the three roads: Jiaochang Middle Road, Hongjin Road, and Chuncheng Road. Even if you visit outside the blooming season, I would like to recommend a conventional Kunming Citywalk route.
Wang Zengqi, who studied and lived in Kunming for seven years, said that Cuihu Lake is the eye of Kunming.
This Citywalk route revolves around Cuihu Lake, the favorite spot for locals, and can be roughly seen as a “Cuihu Loop.” The starting point can be set at Kunming Old Street.
The earliest old Kunming city was centered around the Wuhua Mountain Municipal Government, enclosed by Qingnian Road, Xiaoximen, Nanping Street, and Beimen Street.
The streets radiating from Guanghua Street, including Qianwang Street, Wenming Street, Wenmiao Zhi Street, Jingxing Street, and Yongdao Street, have been collectively planned as the “Kunming Old Street” district, which is the last remaining historical district in the city.
The busiest commercial street in Kunming now is Zhengyi Road, which leads directly from the Municipal Government. The old street perpendicular to Zhengyi Road is Guanghua Street.
Guanghua Street is not as fashionable; it is dominated by old buildings, including the century-old pharmacy Fulin Hall and the renowned rice noodle shop Jianxin Garden.
The most famous spot for photo opportunities in this area is the “Wine Glass Building” as the locals of old Kunming call it. Its official name is the Golden Cup Building, and its unique architectural appearance attracts many visitors specifically for photography.
Image: @Aaron An
On Wenming Road, there is also the Oriental Bookstore, which has a significant history. It was originally established in 1926 and during the “Southwest Associated University Period,” it was a place where many scholars purchased books. Frequent visitors included Lin Huiyin, Wen Yiduo, and Wang Zengqi.
The current bookstore was rebuilt in 2018 and remains quite retro.
Image: @Half-Ripe Rose
Walking along Guanghua Road towards the Municipal East Road, you will come across the oldest Jingxing Flower and Bird Market in Kunming, where the former residence of the famous composer Nie Er is hidden among the flora and fauna.
If you visit on the weekend, the market transforms into a “pop-up” old street flea market, offering a variety of goods, antiques, and artworks. The market operates from morning until afternoon, especially lively on sunny days.
Directly opposite the flower and bird market is the Victory Hall, one of Kunming’s current landmarks. It was originally built to commemorate the victory of the Anti-Japanese War and was designed by the same architect as the Wine Glass Building, making them a complete set when viewed together.
Leaving Victory Hall, you can walk to Kunming Confucian Temple.
This Confucian Temple has a history of over 300 years and has been severely damaged due to historical reasons. Most of the buildings you see today have been restored.
Its original function as a Confucian Temple has largely disappeared; it now serves as the Kunming Cultural Center and the Kunming Mass Art Center, where the elderly often gather to relax and socialize.
Exiting the Confucian Temple, a 10-minute walk will take you to the beloved Cuihu Park, a favorite spot for locals.
Cuihu Park is reminiscent of Chengdu’s People’s Park, where activities such as boating, dog walking, tea drinking, playing chess, and kite flying are popular, even on weekdays.
I really love Cuihu Park; it is said to be beautiful in all seasons, making one want to collect all its charms.
The roads surrounding Cuihu Park are named East, South, West, and North. In the evenings, many locals come here for a walk after dinner to aid digestion.
Leaving the park, you will find the former site of the Yunnan Army Academy, which is now a museum.
In addition to the Yunnan Provincial Museum, which has moved to the vicinity of the Guandu Ancient Town, the Yunnan Army Academy, known as the “Cradle of Officers,” is an important place to understand the history of Kunming or Yunnan. It was established 15 years earlier than the Whampoa Military Academy.
A unique feature of the academy is the hourly changing of the guard ceremony, which is worth setting aside time to watch.
The final stop on this Citywalk route is the National Southwest Associated University, a 1.3km walk from the Yunnan Army Academy.
However, this renowned institution, whose original site is now located within Yunnan Normal University, is temporarily closed to the public due to the pandemic.
During the Anti-Japanese War, Peking University, Tsinghua University, and Nankai University established the Southwest Associated University in Kunming. Despite the difficult times, this institution produced 2 Nobel Prize laureates, 5 recipients of the State Supreme Science and Technology Award, 8 pioneers of the Two Bombs and One Satellite program, and 173 academicians. It is undoubtedly a significant chapter in the history of Chinese education.
If you plan to stay in Kunming for an extended period, consider spending an extra day to visit the Guandu Ancient Town, which is slightly farther from the city center.
The itinerary could be arranged as follows: Niujiezhuang → Guandu Ancient Town → Yunnan Provincial Museum → Douna Flower Market/Douna Wetland Park.
You should be familiar with the other spots, but Niujiezhuang might be less well-known.
This place is actually famous in Yunnan as the “nest of Yunnan opera,” and the Yunnan Opera Museum is also located here. If you’re interested, you can visit it as well.
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Loosen Your Belt Before Entering Kunming’s Dingy Eateries
Just as dining in Chengdu following Michelin guides may not always be reliable, and exploring the top 50 fly-infested eateries is the way to go, the dingy yet delicious eateries embody the soul of Kunming’s cuisine. With minimal expense, you can experience immense gustatory pleasure, making Kunming a place where the more you eat, the greater the sense of happiness.
8:00
– Breakfast –
Wenshan He Xian Ju
Before starting the Cuihu Loop, if you’re looking for a breakfast spot to fill your stomach, I recommend He Xian Ju in Ranbu Lane.
It’s very easy to find; the place is so popular that diners overflow into the street, eating on stools that occupy the sidewalk.
Wenshan was introduced in the Southeast Yunnan section previously, where the famous Puzhehei is located.
The characteristic of Wenshan breakfast is the abundance of condiments. A bowl of chicken soup rice noodles is topped with a generous layer of condiments, showing great sincerity. Moreover, adding an extra serving of chicken only costs 15 yuan, truly touching the prices in Kunming.
Image: @3
The chicken soup is fresh, the chicken is tender, and the chicken blood is smooth, complemented by flavors from leeks, small red peppers, and garlic paste. This combination ensures that early in the morning, one’s heart, lungs, spleen, stomach, and kidneys are all at ease.
Image: @
Other breakfast recommendations:
Huang’s Wanfeng Small Pot Rice Noodles: A traditional small pot rice noodle shop that has been open for 10 years, with a hidden gem being the fermented tofu rice noodles.
Xinying Traditional Tofu Rice Noodles: Using authentic sour rice noodles, the soul of the dish is the tofu drizzled with chili oil, which is so fragrant it can make your soul wander.
Image: @Night Owl II
12:00
– Lunch –
Mangshi Dai Flavor Wine House
As the provincial capital, Kunming benefits from the convenience of “eating the whole province in one place.” Dai cuisine, Yuxi dishes, Honghe dishes, Simao dishes… the choices are endless.
In Kunming, there’s a place called Duoge Water known for its Dai cuisine, where the business is so good that arriving just one minute late can mean an extra hour of waiting. I’m not one for queuing, so I turned my attention to this Mangshi Dai Flavor Wine House.
Image: @Orange Girl in Kunming
Mangshi’s Dai cuisine is less sour and spicy compared to that of Banna, making it more widely accepted.
This restaurant uses plates to take orders and bills customers based on the plates, reportedly because there are many Vietnamese people in Mangshi who don’t understand Chinese, which is a very authentic practice of Mangshi restaurants.
Image: @Fu Sheng
Their traditional Dai dishes are all-encompassing, with items like lemon salad, sour stewed vegetables, grilled pork belly, and wrapped brain flowers all deserving a thumbs-up. Few people who don’t dislike sour and spicy flavors will find anything to criticize.
Image: @Fu Sheng
18:00
– Dinner –
Mysterious Stir-Fry
As evening falls, loosen your belt and enjoy some authentic stir-fried dishes.
Mysterious Stir-Fry is a legendary hole-in-the-wall in Kunming, with truly shabby surroundings, hard to find and not very spacious. During peak hours, it gets so crowded that even turning around feels cramped, and what’s more annoying is that the food is genuinely delicious.
Originally, this place was the canteen of the Yunnan Supply and Marketing Storage and Transportation, and making “big pot meals” at a high level is quite a feat.
Sautéed Pork Tendon with Green Peppers is a specialty and a must-order. Seeing the word “tendon,” many people might think it’s tough to chew, but in fact, the meat is incredibly tender, smooth in texture, and carries a delightful charred aroma. There’s only one strip of tenderloin tendon in a whole pork loin, so enjoy it while you can.
Sautéed Erguo (rice cake) is another Yunnan specialty. Their version of sautéed Erguo has a distinct Kunming flavor, incorporating cured old pork, leeks, and cabbage, resulting in a dish that is sweet, soft, and glutinous.
Hand-torn Chicken is also a must-order dish. The chicken looks pale, but it is actually very flavorful.
The chicken is not at all dry; it’s best to eat it with the crispy yet chewy skin. Dipping it in spicy powder and crushed peanuts offers a different taste experience.
Other Yunnan dishes to try:
Auntie Qian’s Restaurant: After expanding its business, it has moved away from being a humble eatery and has become a regular spot for Kunming locals to treat themselves.
Xi Building: A tourist-friendly restaurant with a good environment by Cuihu Lake, though prices are not cheap. The advantage is that almost all the dishes you want to try are available, and the flavors are consistently good.
21:00
– Late Night Snacks –
Baoying Barbecue
I often praise Sichuan as a major province for barbecue, but Yunnan’s barbecue scene is also quite diverse.
Just choosing between “Jianshui,” “Dai-style,” and “Zhaotong” barbecue can start a debate, let alone the rich variety of ingredients and unique dipping sauces in Yunnan. I genuinely recommend saving some room for late-night snacks after dinner (though it’s unlikely you’ll be able to resist).
Zhaotong Beef Skewers from “Life on a Stick”
If you have the chance, try it a few more times. This time, the opportunity goes to Jianshui barbecue. After all, the question of how delicious Jianshui is has already been argued in an article by Xianyu.
The strength of Jianshui barbecue lies in both its ingredients and dipping sauces.
In addition to the “hard currency” of barbecue stalls—grilled tofu—beef jerky, pork tongue, insects, sticky rice lotus root, and more can all be grilled.
Baoying’s specialty is its dipping sauces, with options like dried chili powder, fermented tofu, and garlic-scented minced chili. For the more discerning foodie, each type of ingredient is paired with a different dipping sauce, making Jianshui barbecue quite particular.
Grilled pork skin, grilled chicken feet, and are heavenly delights. Fried marinated large intestine and fried potatoes are dishes you won’t regret ordering. How could anyone refuse Yunnan-grown potatoes?
Other barbecue recommendations:
Wu Master’s Delicious Skewers: The environment and taste are inversely proportional. Although it’s a late-night snack place, their ingredients are usually sold out by 8 PM.
Auntie Xia’s Barbecue: “Mom-generation” shops are generally reliable. Their shop has been featured on “Life on a Skewer,” and the dipping sauce is the soul of the dish.
After rambling on for 4,000 words, I still feel like I haven’t fully captured the best of Kunming in my heart.
Due to the pandemic, it seems we missed a lot of scenery this spring. However, Kunming’s Jacaranda season extends until mid-May, and the mushroom season has also officially begun this year. Take some time to visit Kunming~
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/Accommodation Recommendations/
When staying in Kunming, location is key. The Green Lake Hotel is the top choice, offering an unbeatable central position with a divine view overlooking Green Lake. One of Kunming’s three Black Pearl restaurants, Green Lake Xuan, is also located in the Green Lake Hotel. The downside is that the hotel is quite old (some rooms were renovated in 2009), and the design isn’t particularly trendy.
If you prioritize living experience, Sofitel Kunming is a more popular choice. It has a sense of design and is relatively newer. The downside is that, although it is taller than the Green Lake Hotel, the view isn’t as good.
The Dianchi Lake area is another accommodation option in Kunming, though it’s less convenient for getting to the city center. There are plenty of hotel choices, including InterContinental, Crowne Plaza, and Hualuxe. The InterContinental group has a strong presence here.
There’s also the Banyan Tree Kunming, which is specifically for those who want to stay at a hotel rather than explore the city.
