I quite like the city of Jinan. It has a very pleasant name, Quancheng. Here, there are lotus flowers on all four sides and willows on three sides, with mountains and lakes making up half the city’s scenery.
In fact, it’s not just me who likes Jinan; Mr. Lao She also had a deep affection for it. He once said that Jinan “has springs, ponds, rivers, and lakes, making it the only water city in the north.” This was from a primary school textbook. Do you remember the fear of being dominated by your Chinese teacher when you were young?
Generally speaking, cities with large lakes within their urban areas are never bad. Hangzhou, Yangzhou, Jinan, and Quanzhou are all examples of this.
Jinan is also the birthplace of Shandong cuisine, with dishes like scallion-braised sea cucumber, nine-turn intestines, four-happiness meatballs, and stir-fried kidney flowers. To taste authentic Shandong cuisine, you should go to Jinan.
However, most tourists tend to overlook Jinan.
When people visit Shandong, cities like Qingdao, Yantai, and Weihai are given higher priority over Jinan. Jinan, Tai’an, and Qufu, which are inland cities in Shandong, are often secondary choices.
So today’s article is to give you a thorough introduction to Jinan.
Getting to Jinan is actually quite convenient
Jinan has an airport, but taking the high-speed train is more convenient.
High-speed trains from Beijing, Tianjin, Shanghai, Nanjing, and Hangzhou to Jinan are not long. Among these cities, the journey from Hangzhou to Jinan is the longest, but even the fastest train takes only 3 hours and 3 minutes.
The Jinan-Zhengzhou high-speed railway is also about to open, after which the journey from Zhengzhou to Jinan will take only 1.5 hours.
How to explore Jinan
In the city center of Jinan, two full days are enough to explore. The attractions in Jinan are relatively concentrated.
I’ll outline a very fulfilling one-day itinerary for a tour of Jinan’s city center.
You can walk the entire route; the core attractions in Jinan’s city center are all concentrated here.
Jinan is not very big; with 3 days and 2 nights, you can thoroughly explore the city.
You must visit Baotu Spring, which is the symbol and emblem of Quancheng Jinan. Baotu Spring, together with Jinan’s Thousand Buddha Mountain and Daming Lake, is known as one of Jinan’s three major scenic spots.
Qianlong once bestowed the title of “the First Spring under Heaven” on Baotu Spring.
Lao She also described Baotu Spring like this, “It is always so pure, always so lively, always so bright, bubbling, bubbling, bubbling, never tiring, never retreating, only nature has such power!”
Well, it’s another one from elementary school textbooks.
The admission fee for Baotu Spring is quite reasonable, just 20 yuan. Inside Baotu Spring, there are also attractions such as Luoyuan Hall, Guanlan Pavilion, Shangzhi Hall, Li Qingzhao Memorial Hall, and Li Kuchan Memorial Hall.
Next to Baotu Spring is Wulong Pond. The north gate of Baotu Spring faces the south gate of Wulong Pond Park, which is just across the street.
Wulong Pond is also a place to view springs, and admission is free here.
The springs in Jinan are still very clear, as you can see the fish in the water.
Further up from Wulong Pond is Daming Lake.
Daming Lake is a spring-fed lake. With many springs in Jinan, the convergence of these clear springs forms Daming Lake.
Daming Lake does not require an admission fee. The only expense would be buying a boat ticket to the small island in the middle of the lake, where there is a Lixia Pavilion with inscriptions by Emperor Qianlong.
Alternatively, you can rent an electric boat and cruise around the lake, which is also a way to experience Daming Lake up close.
Daming Lake is not very large; it takes about an hour to walk around the lake. If you take your time, it might take half a day, as there are quite a few attractions along the lake.
After visiting Daming Lake, be sure to visit Qushuiting Street nearby. This is my personal favorite spot in Jinan, where every household has water and willow trees.
Qushuiting Street is a very tranquil place, with a small river running alongside the road, connected by stone bridges. The houses along the street are all traditional architecture, making it quite interesting to explore.
On one side are old houses with brick and tile roofs, and on the other side are clear springs with floating algae. It even has a bit of the feel of Lijiang.
There is a Yuhe Residence on Qushuiting Street, with a small stream called Yuhe Creek and an adjacent alley called Yuhe Alley. It’s unclear if there’s any connection to Xia Yuhe and Emperor Qianlong.
Further down is Furong Street, which isn’t particularly interesting. It’s the kind of food street that every city has—you regret not going, but you also regret going. The food on Furong Street is quite repetitive, so a light taste is enough, as most city food streets are just average.
Finally, this one-day city walk can end at Quancheng Square. The night view of Quancheng Square is quite beautiful, and there are also fountains to watch.
For the second day, I recommend visiting Qianfo Mountain, Hongjialou Church, Shandong Museum, and Shandong Art Museum.
These attractions are not close to each other and require taking a taxi.
Qianfo Mountain is in Lixia District, not too far from the city center. There are quite a few small attractions within the Qianfo Mountain scenic area.
Although the mountain of Qianfo Mountain is not high, the various attractions are not on the same path. Therefore, even if you go up one path and down another, it is still difficult to see everything in one go without deliberately going out of your way. So, if you don’t aim to see all the attractions, a simple hike up and down plus a casual stroll for two to three hours should suffice.
Additionally, Qianfo Mountain is an excellent spot to enjoy the night view of Jinan city.
Hongjialou Church is another iconic attraction in Jinan. Not only is it the largest church in Jinan, but it is also one of the largest in North China.
I also recommend visiting the interior of Hongjialou Church; it is quite impressive.
The Shandong Museum and Shandong Art Museum are located together. I particularly recommend the Art Museum, which is one of the larger modern art museums in China. It has a high aesthetic appeal, making it great for photos, and there are many exhibitions to enjoy.
The Shandong Museum is also worth a visit. Its prized artifact is the Shang Dynasty’s Ya Chun Yue, which is particularly adorable.
Here’s a joke: Look at the characters of Shandong Museum; they resemble “Shandong Concubine Museum” quite a bit. The calligraphy by Mr. Guo Moruo is too flamboyant.
What else can you do around Jinan?
Personally, I highly recommend the southern mountainous areas of Jinan. Here, you can find the Red Leaves Valley, the Jiuru Mountain Waterfall Group, and the Seven Star Platform for stargazing.
The Xuanqiu Lake in Red Leaves Valley is absolutely stunning in autumn.
In winter, Jiuru Mountain features ice waterfalls, which are a surefire attraction.
The Seven Star Platform has been recognized by National Geographic as one of the top ten stargazing spots in the world.
How to eat in Jinan
You must try Shandong cuisine.
Jinan is the birthplace of Shandong cuisine, and the city boasts countless delicious dishes. As outsiders visiting Jinan, we naturally want to indulge in several meals of Shandong cuisine.
Jinan Mansion
Jinan Mansion is the Chinese restaurant at the Hyatt Regency Jinan, a name that exudes simplicity, grandeur, and boldness. If you are visiting Jinan for the first time and want to try Shandong cuisine, this place is sure to be a safe bet.
Shandong cuisine, the first of the eight major Chinese cuisines, emphasizes “cooking with utmost precision and slicing with utmost delicacy.” It follows a style of “dignified and straightforward, not deviating from the main path.”
As it was my first time in Jinan, I naturally ordered some characteristic dishes of Shandong cuisine.
The pictured Scallion-Stuffed Sea Cucumber is one of the representative dishes of Shandong cuisine. Jinan Mansion’s version showcases the salty-fresh flavors and the love for scallions characteristic of Shandong cuisine. The sea cucumber is fresh, crisp, and tender, paired with fragrant and rich scallion segments, making it delicious.
The Stir-Fried Kidney Blossom is another classic Shandong dish. The kidney is neither fishy nor gamy, with a fresh and crisp texture. Although this dish is available in every Shandong cuisine restaurant, few can truly master it.
The preparation of the dish “Nine-Turned Intestine Head” is quite elaborate, reportedly involving boiling, frying, stewing, and finally simmering. The dish features a fatty intestine with a blend of sour, sweet, bitter, spicy, and salty flavors.
However, the version in Jinan leans more towards sweetness.
Dining at a Hyatt-affiliated Chinese restaurant is always interesting. As an out-of-towner, I noticed that I ordered a variety of Shandong dishes, while locals mostly opted for fusion dishes like crispy chicken and Beggar’s Chicken (Lotus-scented Smoked Chicken), which are popular across other Hyatt properties.
Mei Fei Restaurant
Mei Fei Restaurant is a 16-year-old establishment with a down-to-earth atmosphere and good value for money, though the only downside is the long wait times.
I arrived at 11:30, but ended up waiting for an hour.
Their specialty is the Duck Egg Lion Head, priced at 12 yuan each. It features minced meat, lotus root, and water chestnut on the outside, with a duck egg in the center. The dish offers a layered taste experience.
Ordering at Mei Fei is straightforward, as their menu clearly highlights the specialty dishes.
The two dishes pictured below, Spicy Pork with Chili and Scallion-Braised Tendon, are also quite good. Particularly the Scallion-Braised Tendon, which clearly uses oil-fried tendons, bursting with a rich scallion oil flavor.
The Vinegar-Fried Shrimp is also recommended, with the shrimp fried to perfection, offering a tangy and sweet flavor that is very appetizing.
I also noticed other tables ordering Sweet and Sour Carp. However, I was hesitant to try it due to my aversion to overly sweet dishes, having been scarred by the experience of eating Sweet and Sour Mandarin Fish.
For those looking for high-value Shandong cuisine, Pian Yi Fang is a suitable choice. This place offers a decent Shandong meal for around 40-50 yuan per person.
Old Jinan residents know that the most famous potstickers are from Pian Yi Fang.
Their potstickers are generously stuffed, unlike others that skimp on fillings, with a golden and crispy exterior, and a deliciously fragrant pork filling. They are fresh, tender, and crispy—truly excellent.
However, other dishes at Pian Yi Fang are not as impressive as their potstickers. Fortunately, the prices are very reasonable, making it a great option for those seeking high-value Shandong cuisine.
Other notable Shandong cuisine restaurants include Lu Cai, Jin San Bei, Hui Xian Lou, Hong Xing Restaurant, Quan Cheng Lao Dong Jia Restaurant, and Cheng Nan Wang Shi (at the Da Guan Lou branch).
Jinan’s breakfast culture is also worth mentioning.
The city’s day often begins with diligent breakfast stalls. A bowl of sweet porridge, a few fried dough sticks, and the Jinan residents’ day is off to a start.
I even skipped the Hyatt breakfast for two consecutive days just to enjoy Jinan’s breakfast.
Sun’s Sweet Fried Dough Sticks
This place opens at 5:30 in the morning and closes at 8:00, but the lines are ridiculously long. Let me show you the “spectacle” of this queue; having breakfast in such a line is quite an effort.
The specialty here is youtiao (fried dough sticks), egg buns, and sweet porridge. I waited in line for half an hour and had a breakfast that cost 20 yuan, which was quite worth it.
**Qinji Clay Oven Rolls**
It’s said that this place is the pinnacle of clay oven rolls in Jinan, with many locals having eaten here for decades.
I ordered a sesame sugar roll. Their rolls have a crispy exterior and a sweet, non-greasy interior, all at a reasonable price.
**Caobao Baozi Shop**
Caobao Baozi Shop is as famous in Jinan as Goubuli is in Tianjin, and it’s worth a special trip to eat here.
They offer various types of baozi, including three-treasure baozi, shrimp baozi, and lotus leaf soup baozi… all with thin skins and generous fillings.
If you want to take away, they first lay a lotus leaf and then place the baozi on it, ensuring they don’t stick to the bottom and infusing the baozi with the fragrance of the lotus leaf.
**Xinfengyuan Baozi Shop**
Another authentic, time-honored baozi shop. I saw many people buying dozens of baozi to take home.
Additionally, places like Youxuan Zhang, Ouyang Youxuan (for youtiao); Yangshi Matang (for tea soup); Tianmowang, Tianmotang (for sweet porridge); Laozhoujia Beef Shaobing, Laoxiguan Huanglaotai Beef Shaobing, Yangjia Muslim Shaobing with Beef (for beef shaobing); Dingxiangju, Zhangjia Youtiao (for egg buns)… are all quite good.
There are indeed many delicious breakfast options in Jinan.
**Other Recommended Jinan Cuisine**
Everywhere in Jinan, you can find baba rou (a type of braised pork), which you must try.
Baba rou, the king of Jinan’s culinary scene, can be found in shops or stalls all over the city, and you can have it for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and even late-night snacks.
Baba rou is a non-sweet version of large braised pork slices. It is seasoned with soy sauce rather than salt.
At a baba rou shop, you should choose pork belly with a balance of fat and lean, as leaner meat is not as tasty. The vendor will surely ask, “Teacher, would you like rice with soup?” You must answer yes.
Places like Wang Xinguo Baba Rou, Laobing Baba Rou, Wuyue Temple Baba Rou, and Liu Mang Baba Rou are all good spots to try baba rou.
For a more economical option, you can have all three meals at Chaoyixing in Jinan.
Chaoyixing is a well-known catering chain brand in Jinan, and it’s incredibly affordable. For around 20 yuan, you can enjoy the unique delicacies of Jinan.
Where to Stay in Jinan
Whenever I visit an unfamiliar city, I make it a point to explore the recommended hotels in that city.
In Jinan, I highly recommend Shandong Mansion, Regal Jinan, Shangri-La, and InterContinental Jinan. These four are all located in the main urban area, making them suitable for travelers to Jinan.
First on the list is Shandong Mansion, known for its high cost-performance ratio and excellent location (close to Thousand Buddha Mountain and Quancheng Park). The key is that this place is beautifully designed.
It was designed by the American firm Portman Design, which is known for its atriums—transparent spaces that allow for a clear view from top to bottom.
Regal Jinan excels in its dining options, with Jinan’s cuisine being a major plus.
Additionally, this hotel is quite close to Baotu Spring, making it convenient for travelers.
Shangri-La in Jinan is located at the iconic Quancheng Square. It is one of the newest hotels in the old city or, in other words, the one with the best location among the new hotels.
InterContinental Jinan is situated at Henglong Square, with a food street, Furong Street, just across the road.
Where to Combine with Jinan for a Trip
Jinan, Mount Tai, and Qufu are on the same line, with high-speed train distances between them being as short as 20 minutes. They can be perfectly arranged for a combined trip.
Mount Tai is well-known for its grandeur, which stems from the vastness of the Central Plains. Climbing Mount Tai offers a panoramic view of the Central Plains.
Qufu is the hometown of Confucius, and during the summer, many parents bring their children here. The reason? To inspire their kids, of course.
If you have any travel suggestions for the Spring City of Jinan, feel free to leave a comment. I’ve visited fewer times, so I’m certainly not as professional as everyone else.
