My Ultimate Seaside Hot Spring Experience

Lin Xi once wrote a song called “Flowers Without Snow.”

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The opening lyrics, “Emotions stay in the hot spring, there is no such paradise in the world,” refer to Atami on the Izu Peninsula, a place that is popular yet not overly crowded.

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Atami is nestled between mountains and the sea, offering picturesque scenery, open-air seaside hot springs, nearly 20 fireworks festivals a year, and an exceptional seaside art museum.

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Since the Showa era, Atami has been the premier honeymoon destination for newlyweds in Japan.

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It’s not a common destination for Chinese tourists; it’s usually considered when visiting Japan for the third or fourth time.

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Recently, I made two major trips around the Tokyo area.

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I went to Hakone for the Fufu and Fujiya inns; to Ito to experience Kai Anjin; to Shuzenji for the Oni no Sumika and Asaba inns. Of course, I couldn’t miss Atami, a top choice for seaside hot springs in Japan. Atami’s Pearl Star and Kaihourou hotels are renowned.

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Getting to Atami is quite convenient, with just a 45-minute Shinkansen ride from Tokyo Station to Atami Station.

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Today’s article is a report on the Pearl Star Hotel in Atami.

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I’ve soaked in many hot springs, but solely in terms of seaside hot springs, Pearl Star in Atami ranks number one among all I’ve visited.

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Here are some pictures, showcasing the private hot spring bath in my room.

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Soaking in the hot spring while enjoying an unobstructed view of the sea is truly the best way to experience Atami.

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The weather on the first day was so-so, but it was absolutely stunning on the second day.

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The Pearl Star Hotel in Atami is a hotel that takes seaside views to the extreme.

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I may not be well-versed and haven’t stayed in many seaside hot spring hotels, but the private hot spring in the rooms and the public hot springs at Pearl Star Hotel are indeed the best seaside views among all the hot spring hotels I’ve stayed at.

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Soaking in the hot springs here is a true pleasure.

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The hotel offers two types of hot springs: one high-concentration carbonated spring and another relatively neutral hydrogen bath, perfectly balancing acidity and alkalinity for guests to choose from as they please.

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It’s rare to find a hot spring hotel that offers two entirely different types of hot springs simultaneously.

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Additionally, the restaurant offers an IMAX-like sea view.

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Atami Pearl Star is a newly opened hotel in 2022, making it a relatively new addition to Atami’s hotel scene. The rooms are 63 square meters in size and feature a minimalist Muji style that I personally love.

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Even though the room has twin beds, the hotel can rearrange them into a large bed (with the gap between the beds filled using special equipment).

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The first time I went to Japan, I thought I should sleep on a tatami mat, so I specifically requested a room with tatami mats when booking the hotel (Kaisui-en). But on subsequent trips to Japan, I opted for hotels with beds, as tatami mats simply aren’t as comfortable as beds.

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The mini-bar in the room is entirely free, and it even includes craft beer and champagne.

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There are four sets of clothing in the room: pajamas, bathrobes, yukatas, and jackets.

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When you go to a traditional Japanese hot spring hotel, you usually change into a yukata as soon as you check-in. Whether you are in the hotel or strolling around the nearby hot spring street, the yukata is considered the formal attire.

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The room is very smart; a Pad controls the lighting and electric curtains. The best part is that this Pad has a Chinese interface, which is perfect for someone like me who is not proficient in English.

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Watching the sea from this room is absolutely wonderful.

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Here’s a tip for choosing a room at Atami Pearl Star hotel: make sure to book a room starting from the second tier to enjoy a private hot spring with a sea view and an unobstructed view of the ocean. The basic room type does not have enough height, so you can only have a semi-open-air bath in the room, which makes a significant difference.

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As evening falls over Atami Bay, the lights begin to twinkle. I kept taking photos until nightfall.

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Atami Pearl Star hotel is exceptionally considerate.

Before check-in, the hotel contacted me, suggesting that I take a JR train to Atami Station and then a taxi to the hotel. The hotel covers the taxi fare. The same applies for the departure; the hotel will pay for the taxi fare back to JR Atami Station.

Although it’s not far, it’s indeed a hassle to walk while dragging luggage.

Additionally, every guest is entitled to executive benefits upon check-in.

The hotel has an entire floor dedicated to a lounge that offers an all-day supply of drinks and snacks. In the evening, the alcohol is also unlimited.

I don’t know much about alcohol, but a friend traveling with me said that the Japanese whisky and champagne were quite decent.

The local milk provided after soaking in the hot spring is also free. This is actually standard practice at hot spring hotels.

Now, let’s talk about the hotel’s dining. The Japanese-style “one night, two meals” dining experience is also a highlight. I was quite satisfied with the food at Atami Pearl Star.

The hotel has a total of 5 restaurants and 1 specialty bar, which is quite a lot for a hot spring hotel offering “one night, two meals” packages, especially since Pearl Star only has around 60 rooms in total.

The sushi restaurant is very simple and features a counter style where you can watch the chef make sushi from start to finish. Moreover, every seat has an ocean view.

The teppanyaki restaurant specializes in Wagyu beef. Order a cup of sake or Japanese whisky, pair it with the meat, and savor the delights of life.

In addition, there are kaiseki cuisine, French cuisine, and Chinese cuisine.

Kaiseki cuisine focuses on seasonal ingredients, with a variety of steaming, grilling, and boiling methods. The menu and actual dishes fill up an entire table.

The picture below shows the single serving I had; it was thoroughly satisfying.

French cuisine seems to be more popular with the Japanese, and according to the hotel’s introduction, the head chef has quite a reputation, having previously worked at the Imperial Hotel in Tokyo.

In the Chinese restaurant, you can enjoy xiaolongbao, which is also quite popular with the locals.

Breakfast is a buffet with plenty of choices.

If the weather is good, you can eat on the outdoor terrace, which offers stunning ocean views.

I’ll also mention the bar at Pearl Star Hotel in Atami, which is open every evening. Note that the bar is not included in the one-night two-meal plan, but drinks are available in your room and during the Happy Hour in the lounge.

How to enjoy Atami?

Onsen Street

Every hot spring area has an Onsen Street where you can shop, stroll, and eat to your heart’s content. Atami’s Onsen Street was even praised by Tokugawa Ieyasu.

The hotel is not far from there; you can walk to it.

MOA Museum of Art

This is a private museum located at the top of a mountain in northern Atami, boasting stunning aesthetics.

To enter the museum, you need to take a long escalator, which is an art piece itself. The dome features a kaleidoscopic projection.

The MOA Museum of Art embraces a minimalist style with a vast collection that can keep you entertained for about three hours.

The key point is its ocean view, which offers a great vantage point for seeing the city of Atami.

Kinomiya Shrine

The Atami Shrine is one of the top-tier shrines in the area, known for fostering good relationships and severing bad ties. It enjoys significant popularity. I visited at 9 AM, and there were already quite a few people.

Hot Spring Zen Temple

This is a temple where you can enjoy hot springs, and it’s not far from the hotel.

Atami Castle

Atami Castle is a high point along the Atami coastline. The castle tower offers a free footbath and provides a vantage point to view the city from a different perspective.

Atami Beach

Conveniently located right outside the hotel.

Hatsushima

The only inhabited island in Shizuoka Prefecture, it can be reached by a 30-minute ferry ride from Atami. On clear days, you can see Mount Fuji from Hatsushima.

How to get around in Atami?

Atami is best explored by bus at a leisurely pace. Purchase a day pass for 250 yen, which allows unlimited bus rides. Typically, you’ll use the yellow and green lines shown on the map below, which cover all the main attractions.

When is the best time to visit Atami?

It has to be during the fireworks festivals!

In Atami, fireworks festivals are scheduled for 7.28, 8.5, 8.8, 8.18, 8.22, 8.25, 9.18, 9.30, 10.14, 11.19, 12.3, and 12.23.

Mark these dates; they’re already announced.

Atami’s fireworks festivals are maritime, so you can watch them from the balcony of your hotel room.

Lastly, I’ll post some photos of the Atami Pearl Star hotel. If you plan to visit Atami, I highly recommend this hotel.