I used to think that the best places to eat were only in small counties in Zhejiang, but to my surprise, Fujian next door is just as amazing!
Returning to Hangzhou from Fuzhou, I “forced” a stopover in Fuding. Slices of meat, skewers, chicken wings, rice noodle soup, and pearl dumplings… which food lover would want to miss this officially recognized food empire with over 300 varieties of snacks?
After getting a taxi from the high-speed rail station, I told the driver I was specifically visiting Fuding for food, and he immediately gave me a look of admiration, as if saying, “You’re quite the connoisseur.” Parents of high-achieving students are like this; not only do the people of Fuding know their local cuisine well, but they also don’t pretend to be polite about it.
Locations at the border of two provinces often have richer culinary traditions. In 2019, Fuding became the first city in the nation to be included in the “China Culinary Landmark City” list. On that list were cities widely recognized for their delicious food, like Guangzhou, Changsha, and Xi’an. Fuding is the only county-level city on the list, and this recognition carries real weight.
Fuding is not small; it has both mountains and the sea, yet its culinary distribution is quite concentrated. The back streets, the North Market, and Fuding No. 1 Middle School (Central Mountain Road) can form a food route under 3 kilometers without retracing steps. You can taste the essence of Fuding city simply by walking.
It’s already the beginning of the lunar new year, and the gastronomic adventure can’t pause. In Fuding, I managed to eat at 13 different restaurants in just five hours, a feat achievable only in such a high-density food town.
**Dingpei Meat Slices**
📍: 80 meters east of the intersection of Xinjie and Gucheng West Road
💰: 12 RMB
I don’t know how you first heard of Fuding, but I know it was through its meat slices for me. The lean meat from the pig’s hind leg is finely chopped, pounded to a soft yet bouncy texture, then seasoned with sweet potato flour. It operates on the same principle as the beef balls from Chaoshan; the craftsmanship behind Fuding’s meat slices ensures they are definitely chewy and highly textured.
While the method is the same, the taste varies greatly from place to place, primarily hinging on the meat-to-flour ratio. The place I visited is called Dingpei, and their portions are generous and affordable; the meat slices could even be described as “crispy.” In the broth, you can add plenty of rice vinegar and yellow chili water for a tangy and spicy kick, which is incredibly satisfying!
Dingpei also offers another classic Fuding snack, pearl dumplings. The difference between pearl dumplings and regular dumplings is like the difference in size between Thumbelina and a regular princess. The meat filling includes mushrooms and carrots, without any additional broth—thin skin and abundant meat is the standard.
⭐️ Other Recommended Meat Slices: Meat Slice Grandpa (a 30-year-old popular store) and Zherong Pork Balls (recommended pork balls + meat slices + a luxurious three-way combo for an indulgent bite).
**Theater Tofu Pudding**
📍: 140 meters east of the intersection of Xinjie and Gucheng West Road
💰: 8 RMB
The two food stops I hit next door to each other show that not only is the food density high in Fuding, but they also aren’t afraid to dive deep into alleys for good flavors. This originally unnamed tofu pudding stall is opposite the People’s Theater, where tofu pudding officially turned into a unique afternoon dessert for the people of Fuding.
Do you eat tofu pudding sweet or savory? Don’t blame the North-South divide; even our neighborhood can’t agree. The answer in Fuding is sweet. They prepare the tofu pudding in a traditional round barrel, drenching it in syrup and mint water to create the theatrical tofu pudding that brings back memories for many people born in the ‘80s from Fuding.
You can add one of three supplementary ingredients: osmanthus honey, grass jelly, or almond tofu, all homemade by the owner’s grandma, each for just an additional yuan. They also sell skewers, and I found their sauces to be more aromatic than at the Cross Street stands.
**Old Street Scallion Pancakes**
📍: 40 meters south of the intersection of Gucheng West Road and Shifu Road
💰: 8 RMB
On my way to the back street, I passed this scallion pancake shop, boasting over 30 years of tradition—no one would argue that it’s “old school.” They specialize in various traditional Chinese pastries, each priced around 10 yuan per box.
I bought mung bean cakes, taro cakes, and sugar-dusted taro balls. Not to mention, you people from Fujian really have a knack for taro!
Fujian’s traditional snack, guangbing, resembles a Chinese hamburger, with two flavors: meat filling and Chinese toon. The guangbing has a rather chewy texture, requiring some biting strength. The dried toon tastes like nibbling on dehydrated veggies, which doesn’t hold up well texture-wise, but it delivers a rich aroma.
There are several shops along the back street that sell traditional pastries, perfect for buying local souvenirs. This kind of “rustic” old-school pastry is becoming rare in big cities.
**A Qiang’s Large Intestine Rice Noodle**
📍: Fuding Mall, F1 Floor, No. 56 Shifu Road
💰: 15 RMB
Before coming to Fuding, I didn’t have much of an impression of eating rice noodles. But thinking back, how could a city with over 300 snacks possibly lack something from the extensive noodle family in China?
Fuding’s large intestine rice noodle is outstanding. The intestines are treated beforehand, marinated to enhance flavor, and sliced into thin strips as preparation. When customers order, they simply dip it into boiling water. It’s an excellent example of traditional “semi-prepared” course wisdom.
Interestingly, while the intestinal dish looks ordinary, it has a crispy yet smooth texture. Combined with pickled vegetables and pig’s blood as accompaniments, it’s incredibly savory and delicious. The rice noodles are made from local water rice noodles, which are decent but the standout is truly in the toppings.
The shop I visited, A Qiang, has a plain exterior yet is a well-known “celebrity” shop that operates 24 hours.
⭐️ Other large intestine noodle recommendations: Wenzhou Large Intestine Rice Noodle (comparable to A Qiang).
**Chu Yulian Chicken Wings**
📍: No. 165 Longshan North Road
💰: 20 RMB
Among Fuding’s many historical snacks, honey-glazed chicken wings are a standard rising star. Just how popular is this newcomer? Almost every snack shop in Fuding makes these chicken wings. This chicken, probably fond of weightlifting, is enveloped by a glossy honey glaze, making the meat exceptionally firm. Just seeing them makes your mouth water; they pair exceptionally well with drinks!
The inventor of these chicken wings runs a shop called Chu Wings, where they sell them for 6.5 yuan each and you can even vacuum-pack them to take home.
⭐️ Other chicken wing recommendations: Chu Wings (the inventor and the most famous).
**Fangji Skewers at Cross Street**
📍: No. 20 Cross West Alley
💰: 10 RMB
Fuding has its own kind of oden which, I can say without any filters, is way better than the Japanese version! The secret lies in the two small condiment pools in the middle of the pot—one spicy and one mild. Skewers rolled around in the pot soak up that delicious flavor.
You must try the four-corner dried tofu, veggie balls, and bean curd sticks; seaweed and Fuzhou fish balls are also good. The skewers are inexpensive street food, capping at 5 yuan, with veggies costing only a yuan each, so grabbing a plate for around ten yuan makes Fuding truly a paradise for food lovers!
Their shop tends to be crowded, and the seating is limited, so you might have to wait.
**Old Alley Almond Tofu**
📍: No. 41 Heqian Road, Tongshan Street
💰: 11 RMB
While I cherish the nostalgic feeling of the theater tofu pudding, I actually prefer the syrup here. They offer a wider variety, and have creatively introduced several new cold drinks that showcase an innovative spirit.
The prices for desserts hover around single digits; a classic tofu pudding or almond tofu only costs around 3 or 4 yuan, and the popular taro balls with milk are just 6 yuan. Affordable and delicious!
Fuding’s almond tofu comes in two types: one is transparent, and the other is the milky one shown in the picture, with little difference in flavor. The handmade cooling jelly has visible bubbles, complemented by classic sugar syrup and mint flavoring. Despite being winter, I can still go for a cold treat!
⭐️ Other recommended desserts: Yipin Tofu Pudding (offers a huge variety of tofu puddings albeit at slightly higher prices than Old Alley Almond Tofu).
**Old Bai’s Marinated Dish Shop**
📍: No. 20 Gucheng West Road
💰: 20 RMB
Walking from the back street to the North Market, this is the everyday grocery market for locals in Fuding. The market is especially known for its cooked food stalls; Old Bai’s place has been around for over 30 years, offering a diverse range of options that locals usually enjoy.
Fuding’s marinated dishes generally lean sweet, which suits my palate perfectly. I got some toothpick meat and shredded squid, and demolished them while watching TV. The owner also recommended marinated peanuts, bamboo shoots, and chicken legs.
⭐️ Other marinated dish recommendations: Haokelai Marinated Dishes (similar offerings across the street from Old Bai).
**North Market Beef Balls**
📍: No. 374-1, Central Mountain Road
💰: 15 RMB
The North Market beef balls are quite famous; just look at the storefront, it dominates a significant space on the bustling street lined with food stalls. However, it was the only place during my food journey in Fuding that I felt didn’t come highly recommended.
Though termed beef balls, they are essentially beef soup (known as beef “slip” in Fuzhou) made in a similar way to Fuding meat slices, but substituted the ingredients. I personally prefer the crunchy texture of pork soup, while those who enjoy soft dishes can check this one out.
**Uncle’s Sesame Cake**
📍: No. 288 Central Mountain Road
💰: 6 RMB
The key to making delicious sesame cakes revolves around four words: freshly baked. Compared to instant noodles, in the winter, being able to clutch a hot, steaming cake is what true happiness feels like.
Their sesame cakes excel in their uniformity; I’m not a fan of crusts on pizza, and their flatbread is nearly as thin as the center—it’s equally crispy. I ordered a half-fat half-lean sesame cake, the filling was just right, and the preserved vegetables were aromatic; though I noticed local patrons usually go for the crispy sesame cakes.
**Wu’s Fried Buns**
📍: No. 430 Central Mountain Road
💰: 9 RMB
If I didn’t say anything, you wouldn’t know that Wu’s has expanded its business to Fuzhou and Xiamen and is doing exceptionally well!
Fuding’s fried buns are in a league of their own, about the size of a child’s fist—two can fill you up. They’re cooked thoroughly on a flat pan; the bun skin is thick but rich, providing a crispy texture without being burnt.
Though these buns aren’t soup buns, they still ooze a lot of juice when bitten into, and they share a similarly sweet flavor—delicious but hard to eat in large amounts. Just a heads-up, they don’t open in the morning; visit after 2 PM for buns.
**Li’s Marbu Pork Chop**
📍: No. 150 Central Mountain Road
💰: 15 RMB
This shop is right next to Wu’s; Marbu is a town located even further below Pingyang County in Wenzhou. The moment I saw such a small place on the map, my foodie radar started buzzing non-stop.
Be sure to order the pork chop; one serving is about the size of an adult’s face. However, it’s quite light; the chop is flattened and slim, allowing it to be fried until crispy—much crispier than regular fried chicken. I truly enjoyed that crunchy texture.
**Street Top Huang’s Wonton King**
📍: No. 538 Central Mountain Road
💰: 12 RMB
To wrap up my Fuding culinary tour, let’s finish with a century-old restaurant. I don’t usually believe in century-old shops. I feel that eating habits are always changing; deep experience doesn’t always mean a place suits modern tastes. But I have to admit I’m fully convinced by Huang’s century-old restaurant.
They only sell one item, small wontons, and to use internet jargon, they’ve perfected their niche market. The wonton skin is extremely thin, floating in broth and visually resembling a goldfish’s tail.
The filling is generous, combining lean meat, dried scallops, and minced shrimp, which they call “Fresh on Fresh.”
In this small fifth-tier city, a single food item has kept a shop thriving for over a century, an achievement that definitely makes the people of Fuding proud.
That concludes my introduction to the non-repetitive food route in Fuding, primarily focusing on snacks, with classics and must-tries all woven together. No need to search elsewhere for snacks.
If you have a larger group, consider dining in a restaurant. Fuding is a coastal city with a long coastline and vast tidal flats; seafood is a staple at Fuding tables.
