Located at the bottom of the Sichuan Basin, Chengdu is often overcast throughout the year. On sunny days, whether it’s a holiday or a workday, teahouses of all sizes in Chengdu are always packed. The people of Chengdu, being willful, would rather skip work to bask in the sun at teahouses.
Chengdu residents don’t have high expectations for the environment of teahouses. They can drink tea in parks, by rivers, or even on empty spaces outside community public toilets. However, the only obsession is to bask in the sun, so most Chengdu teahouses are open-air, which Chengdu people call “baba teahouses.”
Qingting previously wrote a special article introducing Hangzhou tea houses. In terms of atmosphere, Chengdu’s teahouses are quite different from Hangzhou’s tea houses. Compared to high-end tea houses with beautiful environments but often costing three-digit sums per person, Chengdu’s teahouses are more down-to-earth and approachable, with an average consumption of thirty yuan already considered high.
Depending on the type of tea, a cup of tea in most teahouses usually costs between 10-30 yuan. One tea per person, with unlimited hot water supply. After retirement, the older generation often spends ten yuan to sit in the teahouse with old friends for a whole day, which is a common practice.
Of course, corresponding to the price is the self-service style of Chengdu teahouses. Basically, no one will refill your tea or wait on you. Most teahouses require you to pay, collect tea leaves, a covered bowl, and hot water yourself, then find a seat and sit down without disturbing others. At most, if the hot water runs out, you call the tea master to change the pot.
The tea master specifically refers to the service staff in teahouses who greet guests. In the past, besides serving tea, the tea master also had a set of skills in pouring water.
High toss, turn, catch the pot, bend down, pour water… A copper pot with a spout over a meter long can become very flexible in the hands of the tea master, accurately pouring water into the teacup without spilling a drop. Today, this skill is only inherited as a characteristic performance and can only be seen in some teahouses with more tourists.
The covered bowl is a standard in old Chengdu teahouses and has become a symbol of Chengdu. The lid represents heaven, the bowl represents people, and the saucer represents earth, implying the harmony of heaven, earth, and humanity. The tea lid has many uses; it can maintain the temperature of the tea and adjust the dissolution speed of the tea leaves by opening and closing the lid.
The popularity of the covered bowl tea has also formed a set of secret codes. Placing the tea lid on the side of the tea bowl indicates the need for a refill; placing the tea lid flat beside the bowl indicates that the seat is occupied and the person is temporarily away and will return; placing the tea lid upright in the tea bowl indicates that the tea is finished and the person is ready to leave, reminding the shopkeeper to take away the bowl.
When drinking tea, many people only hold the bowl and the lid, leaving the saucer on the table. The correct way is to hold the saucer with the left hand, lift the lid with the right hand, gently scrape off the foam, and then sip.
However, foreign friends do not need to be too particular about these details. Drinking tea is not like attending a high-end banquet; no one stipulates how to hold the cup to be proper. Just be casual and comfortable, as Chengdu people do not take these things too seriously.
There are simple snacks like melon seeds and peanuts in the teahouse’s small shop, usually a bit more expensive than outside. Thrifty tea drinkers would never come empty-handed; they always bring their own snacks like melon seeds and peanuts, and some seasonal fruits washed and ready. If it’s mealtime, they might also pack some food to take along, which is allowed in Chengdu’s teahouses.
Chengdu’s teahouses are definitely not just for savoring tea. Basking in the sun, chatting, playing cards, and ear cleaning are the main activities, while the taste of the tea is the least important. Recently, when I returned to Chengdu, I basically spent every day in teahouses, having a great time. With a sense of guilt for wasting time, I want to introduce some characteristic teahouses in downtown Chengdu.
People’s Park · Heming Teahouse
A benchmark of Chengdu’s old teahouses
Old Chengdu residents may not have been to Wide and Narrow Alley, but they must have been to People’s Park, where Chengdu’s most famous Heming Teahouse is located.
Founded in 1923, Heming Teahouse is almost a hundred years old and is a qualified old teahouse in Chengdu. Although it has become well-known to many tourists in recent years and turned into a, in my heart, Heming still maintains the appearance of an old teahouse.
Entering People’s Park from the main gate and walking straight in, a very historic archway comes into view. Looking inside, the place is bustling with people, with stone tables and bamboo chairs densely packed.
Although the space seems disorderly and chaotic, it is actually well-organized. Once seated, a waiter naturally comes over to greet and serve. Guests chatting loudly while eating melon seeds do not disturb others, each enjoying their own “dragon gate array.”
Although the number of tourists from other parts of the country coming to check in has increased, the presence of old Chengdu residents remains indispensable. Families bask in the sun, engage in idle chatter; retired elders set up a game of chess, pontificating on world affairs; young people play cards here… Rumors about Chengdu residents not needing to work spread like this.
In addition to the good environment and atmosphere, price is also a major factor contributing to its popularity. Tea ranges from 15 to 30 yuan per cup, with unlimited refills, and snacks like melon seeds and peanuts are also reasonably priced. One can sit with a cup of tea and chat from morning till night.
During tea breaks, one can also experience authentic old Chengdu ear cleaning. The ear cleaners, known as “Shu Er Lang,” move through the crowd, their metal tweezers making a distinctive “ding ding” sound. You know it’s them without even looking up.
To spend a full day here, food is a must. Right next door is the flagship store of Chengdu’s famous Zhong Shui Jiao, where you can order and bring your food directly to your tea seat.
Visitors from out of town can also enjoy authentic Sichuan opera performances, with common acts including face-changing and fire-breathing. To get a good view, it’s advisable to sit at a table near the stage in advance, or you might end up too far away and miss the show.
**Dongmen Shijing · Lingke Tea House**
Restoring the old Chengdu street life
Chengdu has Jingli in the south and Kuanzhai Alley in the west. The east gate was once the hub of old Chengdu’s factories. This “Dongmen Shijing” was actually newly built in 2019, aiming to create a landmark attraction in the east. Unfortunately, it coincided with the pandemic, so not many tourists know about it.
Of course, this scenic area wasn’t built out of thin air. It was built around the former residence of the literary giant Li Jieren, known as “Lingke.” With copper teapots, blue-brick roofs, upturned eaves, and tightly packed bamboo chairs, it recreates the street life of old Chengdu as depicted in Li Jieren’s “Ripples in a Pool of Dead Water.”
There are actually two tea houses here in Dongmen Shijing. The one mentioned above is called Lingke Tea House, and the one in the sunken plaza is called Haha Tea Shop. Although they aren’t long-established teahouses, they are filled with Chengdu residents on weekends.
Lingke Tea House is built by the water. Although newly constructed, it retains the classic elements of an old teahouse: tiger stoves, bamboo chairs, ear cleaning, and sugar painting.
The details are also quite thoughtful. Tea bowls are brought to guests on bamboo trays, melon seeds and peanuts are served in enamel dishes, and the teapots are beautifully wrapped in bamboo covers, making for great photos.
Lingke Tea House offers a wide variety of teas, with eleven types in total. The cheapest is 15 yuan, and the most expensive is only 35 yuan. Perhaps because many nearby residents come to drink tea, there’s even an 180 yuan monthly pass option on the menu. When I get older, I’ll buy a monthly pass and spend every day with friends here.
I’m a fan of jasmine tea, so I ordered a cup of “Old San Hua,” which is short for third-grade jasmine tea. Jasmine tea is classified into nine grades: super, first, second, third, fourth, fifth, sixth, broken tea, and slice tea. While super and first-grade teas are delicious, they are also expensive. Given the frequency with which Chengdu residents drink tea, constantly sipping super-grade tea would be hard on the wallet.
“San Hua” strikes a balance between price and taste, making it the most cost-effective option for seasoned tea drinkers. Thus, “San Hua” has become the most popular and best-selling variety in teahouses of all sizes. Over time, “drinking San Hua” has become synonymous with tea drinking.
Following the stone steps down, you’ll find Haha Tea Shop. The setup is quite similar to Lingke Tea House, but this place has the unique feature of offering crosstalk and storytelling performances. After all, this teahouse is run by Chengdu’s local performing arts brand, Haha Crosstalk Society.
Haha Crosstalk Society has three small theaters in Chengdu, offering not only crosstalk and storytelling but also performances that blend Sichuan characteristics, such as money board, comic drama, Sichuan qingyin, and bamboo qin. For specific performance information, you can check their official WeChat account, [Chengdu Haha Crosstalk Society].
**Daci Temple · Daci Tea Garden**
A tranquil oasis in the bustling city
In the heart of Chengdu’s cosmopolitan Taikoo Li stands a thousand-year-old temple, Daci Temple. If you ask me to recommend an old Chengdu teahouse near Chunxi Road, I would choose Daci Tea Garden inside Daci Temple.
When I visited, several trees in the temple were adorned with trumpet-shaped flowers. Those unfamiliar might mistake them for pumpkin flowers, but in fact, these flowers are well-known to most—they are the legendary Datura, a notorious plant often used as poison in martial arts novels.
Though they appear harmless to humans and animals, this flower is indeed toxic, and the entire plant is poisonous. According to Baidu Encyclopedia, severe cases can lead to drowsiness, convulsions, cyanosis, and eventually unconsciousness and death within 24 hours. So, if you come across them, please do not touch them.
As you venture further in, there is a courtyard in the southern part of Daci Temple, where Daci Tea House is located. Choosing such a place that is quiet amidst the hustle and bustle, yet lively within its tranquility, one cannot help but admire how Chengdu people truly know how to enjoy life.
The Daci Tea Garden you see today has been recently renovated, but the history of tea drinking at Daci Temple dates back over 1,200 years to the Tang Dynasty. It was established by the monk Wuxiang as a Zen tea hall, allowing tea drinkers to savor life through Zen tea and to understand the true meaning of “Zen and tea as one.”
Perhaps due to its central location, the cheapest tea at Daci Tea House costs 30 yuan per cup, making it a high-end expense among Chengdu’s old teahouses. After paying, you take the tea leaves, collect the teacup and kettle, find a seat, and even with such high costs, the service remains the familiar self-service style.
Drinking tea at Daci Tea House, with Buddhist chants in the air and skyscrapers in sight, creates a peculiarly surreal feeling, often making one feel disoriented.
Compared to other teahouses, Daci Tea House is much quieter, possibly because it is located in a sacred Buddhist site, where people naturally lower their voices, or perhaps because mahjong is not allowed, reducing the sources of noise and liveliness.
If you happen to be there during mealtime, you can also enjoy a vegetarian meal, with tofu rice, luohan noodles, dumplings, and various dishes all priced at ten yuan each. Eating in such an environment, even simple tea and rice take on a special flavor.
Wenshu Monastery · Xiang Garden
Hidden in the city
Chengdu people are truly laid-back, and it’s quite common to find teahouses within temples, even Wenshu Monastery is no exception. Walking along the red walls of Wenshu Monastery, there is a courtyard dedicated to tea drinking, called Xiang Garden.
Shaded by bamboo groves, an inconspicuous bamboo gatehead stands with a sign that reads “Chen Lu.” Stepping inside, one feels the of “a winding path leading to a secluded place, where the Zen room is deep among flowers and trees.”
There is a hand-washing pool at the entrance. After washing your hands, you can enjoy a free cup of tea called “Boiling Water,” made from loquat seeds and bamboo leaves, with a light and refreshing flavor.
Every plant and tree in the courtyard is carefully arranged, exuding a sense of Zen. Those who enjoy quietness or wish to drink good tea can choose this place, and may also take the opportunity to copy Buddhist scriptures.
In fact, Xiang Garden is not the name of a single teahouse; there are several within the garden. “Chen Lu,” “Fuhui,” and “Zen Courtyard” are teahouses with good environments, focusing on tea quality, and a stronger Zen atmosphere, with prices naturally higher.
More in line with the traditional old Chengdu teahouse style and consumption level is the “Sun Tea Garden” in the middle of Xiang Garden, with open-air seating.
The cheapest plain tea and flower tea are 15 yuan per cup, and the most expensive bamboo leaf tea is only 35 yuan.
Bamboo chairs, teacups, and lively crowds—compared to the solemn Zen teahouses, I still prefer this kind of atmosphere.
Wangjiang Tower Park · Jinjiang Spring
Most local
Chengdu’s parks are also gathering places for teahouses. Besides People’s Park, almost every park in Chengdu, big or small, has open-air tea stalls. Parks like the Huanhuaxi Park next to Du Fu’s Thatched Cottage, the Cultural Park next to Qingyang Palace, Xinhua Park, Baihuatan Park, and the one we are talking about, Wangjiang Tower Park, are all old Chengdu tea spots rarely visited by tourists.
The park itself is free to enter, but there are some ancient buildings inside that charge a 20 yuan admission fee. The tomb of the famous Tang Dynasty poetess Xue Tao is located in this auspicious place, and there is also a memorial hall built in her honor within the park.
Xue Tao had a lifelong love for bamboo. To commemorate her, later generations planted various types of bamboo throughout the park, collecting over 200 species from around the world, including some rare varieties. If you look closely, you can see many new bamboo shoots among the groves.
Choosing to drink tea here is not without reason. Chengdu’s mother river, the Jinjiang River, makes a big bend here, and Wangjiang Tower Park is nestled within this curve. Naturally, the teahouses in the park are all located on the riverside, offering a pleasant ecological environment.
Herons by the river occasionally let out a cry and fly out to assert their presence, giving you a glimpse of the scene described by Du Fu in “A Line of White Herons Ascending into the Blue Sky.” If you are sitting under a tree to drink tea, you might also need to watch out for unexpected “surprises” from above.
More local teahouses also mean an increase in mahjong players. People abandon the less comfortable bamboo chairs and rustic wooden tables, opting instead for more comfortable, modern, and battle-ready sets of tables and chairs. This is the practical wisdom of Chengdu’s people.
Flowering tea, green tea, buckwheat tea, and chrysanthemum tea all cost 15 yuan, and a set of mahjong tiles costs 10 yuan. On weekends or sunny days, the sound of mahjong being played along the river can reach the other side.
The tea masters here are also quite skilled. They can carry ten teapots at once, moving lightly and swiftly—truly, masters are found among the people.
On weekdays, Wangjiang Tower Park is mostly frequented by retirees. Uncles gather in small groups, leaning back in bamboo chairs with their legs crossed, chatting away.
Aunties with uniformly curled hair mostly choose more health-beneficial activities, like playing mahjong. The games under the bamboo groves are less intense, creating an atmosphere of peaceful tranquility.
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In fact, not all Chengdu residents are unemployed; there are plenty of 996 workers in the southern Tianfu Third Street. But Chengdu’s teahouses seem to have an invisible magical barrier that allows those who enter to put down their work, forget about performance metrics, and comfortably while away their time, enjoying the moment.
Whether it’s sunny or not, you can immerse yourself in Chengdu’s teahouses and feel that sense of ease. On your next trip to Chengdu, why not find a teahouse to experience it for yourself?
