Today, it’s all about the Dali guide. Super detailed, that is.
After all, just a few days ago, we introduced the luxurious 999 RMB for two nights in Dali, as well as the super exciting Weishan Yiyun Yunxi Jinshi Di in Dali.
Great products must be paired with great guides. So today, I’ve arranged everything you need to know about how to enjoy Dali.
Honestly, I prefer Dali over Lijiang. The main reason is the Erhai Lake, which is simply breathtaking with its gentle breeze and serene clouds.
Last week, I went to Dali and stayed for three nights, deeply exploring all the attractions.
Plus, I’ve been to Dali twice before, so I believe I’ve thoroughly experienced it. This makes the guide I write more reliable.
First, let me share a map. During this trip, I used the app called “World of Fog” (an app that records your journey), so I managed to document all the places I passed by.
This app is fantastic, available for download on iPhones.
How to enjoy Dali?
Around Erhai Lake
The most beautiful part of Dali is Erhai Lake. When you come to Dali, you must circle Erhai Lake.
There are three main ways to circle Erhai Lake:
1) Cycling around Erhai Lake
This usually takes two days (the full circle is 120 kilometers). The advantage is that you can fully appreciate the beauty of Erhai Lake, but it is also quite physically demanding.
If you don’t want to cycle, you can also rent an electric bike to circle the lake. However, electric bikes often have insufficient battery life and can only cover half of the lake.
2) Driving (renting a car) around Erhai Lake
This is the most convenient way to circle Erhai Lake, and it can be easily done in one day. However, it’s important to note that most of the lakeside areas on the west side of Erhai Lake are not accessible by car, only by cycling.
Dali is one of the destinations with the most developed car rental industries. There are plenty of Smarts, Beetles, Wranglers, and convertible sports cars, all painted in various rainbow colors, but these are all second-hand.
The reason is this: the car rental industry in Sanya is the most advanced in China. Sanya has undergone several rounds of car rental industry upgrades, and now they rent out supercars, with the older models being sent to Dali.
No exaggeration, just take a drive around Erhai Lake and you’ll see for yourself. There are car rental services along the roadside in several ancient towns, offering a variety of vehicles.
However, my suggestion is to drive a convertible Beetle or a convertible Wrangler by the Erhai Lake, as they are both aesthetically pleasing and great for photos. These are not just means of transportation but also excellent tools for taking pictures.
Image from bike go, which offers many local tours in Dali
3) Self-driving + Cycling
This is a new approach. The most beautiful cycling routes (the S-bend section of the West Line around Erhai West Road, and the section from Shuanglang to Wase on the East Line) are best experienced by bike, while other areas can be explored by car.
This method requires joining a group tour, as there will always be a vehicle carrying bicycles following you.
4) Cruise
The Erhai Lake cruise sets off from Dali Port, stops at Longkan Dock, passes through Shuanglang and the Nanzhao Style Island, and finally arrives at Taoyuan Dock. This allows you to deeply explore the heart of the lake and enjoy the scenery on both the east and west sides of the lake.
This is also a great way to deeply experience Erhai Lake.
Some must-visit spots in Dali
Exploring Ancient Towns
Xizhou
Xizhou is a Bai ethnic town in the north of Dali, less commercial compared to Dali Ancient Town and Shuanglang. It boasts over 200 ancient residences from the Ming and Qing dynasties (mostly Bai architecture), which are quite historically significant.
Xizhou has a place called Xilin Hall, with a particularly beautiful yellow wall at the entrance, making it the number one in Xizhou.
Actually, the season when I visited wasn’t ideal. If it were March or April when the rapeseed flowers are in bloom, this yellow wall would be stunning.
In the second half of the year, rice is planted here. The rice fields are particularly beautiful in July, August, and September when the rice is green, and in mid to late October when the rice turns yellow.
However, by November, the rice is harvested, and it doesn’t look as good.
Additionally, Xizhou has a corner building, which is probably the most frequently photographed spot in Xizhou. The ancient semi-enclosed building fulfills everyone’s romantic fantasies about corners.
Xizhou’s tie-dyeing is also worth recommending. There is an alley in Xizhou where all the shops sell tie-dyed products.
The Bai ethnic group’s tie-dyeing techniques are quite famous, considered an intangible cultural heritage, and use plant-based indigo.
Most tie-dye shops do not use traditional plant dyes but chemical dyes, which are not particularly environmentally friendly and the color quality is average. I recommend Blue Continuation Tie-Dye, founded by a local. The indigo used for dyeing is grown in their own fields, truly pure plant-based, and of high quality. There are experience stores in Xizhou and Zhoucheng.
Xizhou is gradually seeing the emergence of some cafes and bookstores. Drinking coffee in the rice fields is truly quite a unique experience.
Xizhou Ancient Town offers many cultural experiences. For example, activities organized by Xilin Hall such as early market visits and ancient town city walks, handmade jia ma experiences, tie-dye experiences, and the Jiasheji Agricultural Museum are all great ways to experience Bai ethnic culture.
Many of these establishments are run by artists and local craftsmen,, etc., who have lived in Xizhou for many years. They are not overly commercialized and offer good quality experiences.
Next to Xizhou, there is the Haishe Ecological Park, a place where you can enjoy a 270° view of Erhai Lake. You’ll understand once you see the map.
This place is almost surrounded by Erhai Lake, making it an excellent spot to view the lake.
Shuanglang
Shuanglang Town is surrounded by mountains on three sides and faces the sea on one side, with Dali Ancient Town in the distance.
Shuanglang’s unique feature is its proximity to Erhai Lake. If you want to stay in a guesthouse closest to the lake, dine at a restaurant closest to the lake, or enjoy coffee at a cafe closest to the lake, Shuanglang is the only place to do so.
Due to environmental regulations around Erhai Lake, it is impossible for other places to have guesthouses, restaurants, or cafes as close to the lake as Shuanglang.
However, Shuanglang does have some commercial aspects. There are many guesthouses, cafes, and restaurants here, including Yang Liping’s Sun Palace (guesthouse) and Moon Palace (her home).
Currently, the Sun Palace is no longer available for tourists to stay in, but you can go there for afternoon tea.
Another feature of Shuanglang is the abundance of succulent plants. With less rain in Dali, succulents require minimal care.
Dali Ancient Town
Dali Ancient Town feels quite similar to Lijiang’s Dayan Ancient Town, in that it’s a place you might regret not visiting, but also regret visiting. However, not visiting the ancient town when in Dali would be a pity.
Dali Ancient Town does have its merits.
For instance, the Chinese-Western-style Catholic Church, where the exterior features Bai architectural characteristics, while the interior is in the style of a European church, making it a unique blend of East and West.
There is also the North Gate Market, which is very lively. Remember to come with an empty stomach, as there are many Yunnan specialty snacks here, such as pea flour and thin bean paste.
Every city has a Starbucks worth visiting, and Dali’s is located in Honglongjing. It’s fitting to have Starbucks in Dali, as the journey from coffee origin to the final destination is particularly short.
Visiting temples…
In Dali, every Bai village has a Benzhu Temple.
The Bai people’s lives are inseparable from Benzhu, whether it’s major events like birth, education, marriage, job seeking, wealth seeking, illness, disaster, or death, or trivial matters in daily life such as clothing, food, shelter, and transportation. They all inform Benzhu.
So, the Benzhu Temples are always bustling with activity.
**Little Putuo**
Little Putuo is the Benzhu Temple of Wase Town, a tiny island in Erhai Lake. Personally, I think it’s the most beautiful temple in Dali.
**Jizhao Nunnery** is also worth a visit, located at the foot of Cangshan Mountain. It is known as the most beautiful nunnery in China.
Jizhao Nunnery is a great place for photos. In front of the main hall, there are many succulents with various shapes. It might be the temple with the most succulents.
The vegetarian meals at Jizhao Nunnery are delicious, but you need to queue up in advance. It has become quite popular in recent years, so it’s better to visit during the off-season. During peak season, the experience might not be as good.
**Chongsheng Temple and the Three Pagodas**
Chongsheng Temple is actually the Tianlong Temple in “Demi-Gods and Semi-Devils.” It is the largest ancient temple in Dali’s history, with a total of nine Dali emperors having taken refuge here.
Located west of the ever-changing Cangshan Mountain and east of the vast Erhai Lake, it symbolizes Dali.
Even if you don’t go inside, it’s recommended to take a photo at the entrance. The view of the Three Pagodas Avenue is just perfect.
**Enjoying Scenery and Taking Beautiful Photos**
**Cangshan Snow**
Xia Guan wind, Shang Guan flowers, Cangshan snow, and Erhai moon—these are the “Four Wonders” of Dali.
Cangshan Mountain has snow in winter. If you visit Cangshan in winter, you can take the cable car to Xima Pool at the top of the mountain. With Cangshan snow above and Erhai blue below, this is the most beautiful Dali.
Cangshan has three cable cars.
The Zhonghe Cableway is the shortest, leading to the Jade Belt Road halfway up the mountain. It’s open-air, so dress warmly in winter.
The Gandan Cableway is the second longest, close to Gandan Temple and Jizhao Nunnery.
The Xima Pool Cableway is the longest, reaching the top of the mountain, but it is easily affected by weather and may close. Before going to any cableway, call to check if it’s open.
Taking the cable car for an overhead view of Erhai Lake is also a great experience.
**Chongyi Village**
This place is perfect for viewing the red water-side cypresses. Unfortunately, I visited in late December, and the cypresses are at their most vibrant in November and early December.
**Xingsheng Bridge**
It’s not an exaggeration to call her the most beautiful bridge over the Xi’er River. The European-style bridge gives off a sense of being by the Seine.
**Pansha Village (S-Bend)**
This spot is guaranteed to produce stunning photos, but you must get up early; otherwise, it’s packed with people. There are just too many people coming to take photos at the S-Bend.
**Longkan Dock**
Strolling along the coast of Longkan, every shot you take is a piece of scenery. Just like the S-Bend above, it’s extremely crowded.
**Ideal Town**
Billed as Dali’s Santorini. This place, well, for every red there’s a black. You can take beautiful photos, but the excessive imitation of Greek Santorini has lost the local Dali character.
I don’t recommend staying at Ideal Town; the few hotels here have exorbitant premiums. Moreover, I can’t accept that the hotel I stay in charges visitors for taking photos.
**Yang Liping Grand Theatre**
There aren’t many modern buildings in Dali, and Yang Liping Grand Theatre is the most distinctive one. Unfortunately, due to the pandemic, there haven’t been many performances in this theatre in the past two years.
**Pullman Dali Top Bar**
I personally declare that this is the best place to view Erhai Lake. Not only is it high and close, but the view is also unobstructed.
**Attending a Market Day in Dali**
The Bai ethnic group’s market day is bustling with a variety of goods, from fruits and vegetables to agricultural products, snacks, clothing, and various daily necessities.
If you want to experience local life in Dali, you must attend a market day.
**Every year from the 15th to the 21st of the third lunar month, the largest market day in Dali, the March Street Market, takes place. If your timing is right, it’s definitely worth experiencing.**
But in reality, there are almost daily markets in Dali, just varying in size.
The Dali Street in Dali Town is held on the second, ninth, sixteenth, and twenty-third days of the lunar month;
Fengyi Street in Fengyi Town is held on the fifth and tenth days of the Gregorian calendar;
Haidong Street in Haidong Town is held on the first, eighth, fifteenth, twenty-first, and twenty-sixth days of the lunar month;
Wase Street in Wase Town is held on the fifth and tenth days of the Gregorian calendar;
Shuanglang Street in Shuanglang Town follows a cycle starting from January 5th, repeating every six days;
Shangguan Street in Shangguan Town is held every Saturday;
Long Street in Xizhou Town is held on the second, ninth, sixteenth, and twenty-third days of the lunar month;
Wanqiao Street in Wanqiao Town is held on the fourth, eleventh, eighteenth, and twenty-fifth days of the lunar month;
Yinqiao Street in Yinqiao Town is held on the fifth, thirteenth, twentieth, and twenty-eighth days of the lunar month;
Taiyi Street in Taiyi Township is held every Thursday.
Xiaguan Town has a market every Sunday.
Exploring the Ancient Towns Nearby
There are three ancient towns near Dali worth visiting: “Nuodeng Ancient Town” famous for its ham, “Shaxi Ancient Town” renowned for its Tea Horse Ancient Road culture, and “Weishan Ancient Town,” the former capital of the Nanzhao Kingdom.
Nuodeng Ancient Town
In the documentary “A Bite of China,” there is a six-minute segment featuring Yunnan’s Nuodeng ham. If you’re a foodie, don’t miss Nuodeng Ancient Town.
Shaxi Ancient Town
Shaxi Ancient Town is located between Lijiang and Dali. If you’re traveling between Lijiang and Dali, consider Shaxi Ancient Town as a stopover.
There’s an old saying: “In the north, there is Dunhuang; in the south, there is Shaxi.” Dunhuang is known for the Silk Road, while Shaxi is famous for the Tea Horse Ancient Road.
This ancient town moves at a leisurely pace, and even during peak tourist seasons, it remains relatively quiet. If you enjoy tranquility and simplicity, you can visit Shaxi Ancient Town to quietly contemplate life.
Weishan Ancient Town
Weishan is the capital of the Nanzhao Kingdom and a true ancient city in Yunnan. Its history is even older than that of Dali, boasting the best-preserved Ming and Qing dynasty ancient architecture in China.
The sunshine here is excellent, and time moves slowly; there is no glamour, only the tranquility of the years.
Weishan is perfect for a leisurely stroll, allowing one to truly enjoy a vacation.
Moreover, Weishan has the added benefit of offering excellent accommodations. The Yihui Yunxi Jinshi Residence is located in Weishan.
Seasonal Highlights in Dali
Late December to early January, Dali has winter cherry blossoms; late February to early March, Dali has spring cherry blossoms.
Dali University and Wuliang Mountain are great places to see cherry blossoms in Dali. However, due to differences in varieties, the cherry blossoms in Dali are not as beautiful as those in Wuhan or Qingdao.
It’s important to note that due to the YQ (COVID-19), Dali University may not allow outsiders to enter.
November to March of the following year is the best time to see the red-billed gulls.
This is the annual migration of the red-billed gulls, flying over 6,000 kilometers from the cold Siberia to the warm Yunnan, with Erhai Lake in Dali being one of their stopovers.
During this time, there are truly a lot of red-billed gulls on Erhai Lake.
Dali Cuisine
The thin bean paste from the North Gate Market in Dali, Xizhou baaba (a type of pancake), Bai ethnic group’s erkuais (rice cakes), and Shaba fish are all highly recommended local specialties.
As for which restaurant is better, I personally feel they are quite similar.
I would particularly recommend the cold water fish hot pot at Dali Yiyun.
Yunnan’s hotels are adept at perfecting a dish to its utmost. The Yak Hot Pot at Xueshan Pujiu is a masterpiece, the Fire Pit Pork Ribs at Lijiang Hyatt Regency are super delicious, and Yiyun specializes in cold water fish hot pot.
The cold water fish from Erhai Lake, paired with Nuodeng ham and local crispy meat, already wins in terms of ingredients. The price is also reasonable, around 200 yuan for a set meal, making it well worth a recommendation.
Best Seasons to Visit Dali
I recommend visiting during March, April, May, as well as September to December. Try to avoid the summer months, as it tends to be crowded and there are more rainy days.
In contrast, autumn and winter in Dali are almost rainless, and during that time, Erhai Lake is incredibly blue.
