I’m not skilled at catching crabs myself, but when it comes to eating them, I’m an expert. Steamed crabs are undoubtedly delicious, but the mere thought of drunken crabs makes me salivate uncontrollably. What should you pair with crabs? Naturally, it’s yellow wine. Crabs are inherently cold, while yellow wine is warm, perfectly balancing the chill of the crab.
These two foods together point to an obvious destination: Shaoxing, the hometown of yellow wine, is ready to show its true strength.
After this trip to Shaoxing, I’ve become a big fan of yellow wine, even internally shouting the slogan “Revive Yellow Wine.” I bought a bunch of yellow wine home and even thought about throwing away the beer I had stockpiled. I felt like what I was drinking wasn’t just wine but sweet, fresh juice. Only now did I understand what the ancients meant by nectar and ambrosia.
Compared to beer and liquor, yellow wine is almost unheard of outside of Jiangnan. After all, it’s a wine that has graced national banquets. My northern friends asked, isn’t yellow wine medicinal wine? Others retorted, isn’t yellow wine just for cooking?
They’re right, and they’re wrong; those are all stereotypes. So please give me five minutes today, and let’s “Discuss Shaoxing over Wine,” talking about the charm of drunken crabs and yellow wine. The watery town of Shaoxing in autumn is worth a visit and even more worth a taste.
Drunken Crabs with Yellow Wine, the Authentic Taste of Shaoxing
It turns out that drunken crabs aren’t a specialty of Shaoxing; they originate from Jiangsu and are mainly made with spices and yellow wine. The difference is that Jiangsu makes them cooked, while Shaoxing does them raw, resulting in a completely different texture.
In the realm of raw-pickled crabs, there’s also the strong contender of salted crabs, which are more commonly eaten in Ningbo. However, this method uses swimming crabs and is mainly seasoned with salt, emphasizing salty freshness.
Shaoxing’s drunken crabs use lake crabs, with a sweeter approach, and combined with the rich flavor of yellow wine, the taste becomes more complex.
Before going to Shaoxing, I asked local friends where to eat drunken crabs, hoping for some ready-made recommendations. Instead, she replied: “At home.”
Making drunken crabs seems to be a skill ingrained in the DNA of Shaoxing people. Every household has its own recipe, each thinking theirs is the best, let alone restaurants—after all, homemade is always the most delicious. She said her parents would make a big jar every time, and it would be gone in a few days.
For tourists, eating drunken crabs in Shaoxing isn’t difficult. Not only can you find them in restaurants, but they’re also available in roadside delis. Prices range around 20 yuan per crab, very affordable, achieving drunken crab freedom.
*Drunken small stone crabs in a shop
As for making crabs, Shaoxing has an innate advantage. Being the birthplace of yellow wine, finding good wine is a breeze. This is truly winning from the starting line.
Shaoxing and yellow wine have been tightly bound for centuries. The clear waters of Jianhu Lake infuse the yellow wine with its soul, making Shaoxing’s yellow wine irreplaceable, just like the Tiger Running Spring water is always the best match for Longjing tea.
The heyday of yellow wine was also the most glorious time for Shaoxing. When Emperor Gaozong of the Song Dynasty moved the capital to Hangzhou, he passed through Yuezhou and found the place auspicious, renaming it “Shaoxing” and also using it as his reign title. Shaoxing became a southern Song dynasty auxiliary capital, bustling with activity, and the delicious taste of yellow wine conquered the northerners who had moved south, skyrocketing in value and designated as “official wine.”
Even now, yellow wine’s status in the wine world remains high. It is one of the world’s three ancient wines, ranking first in nutritional value, yet ironically, its popularity is the lowest. However, in its home base of Shaoxing, the charm of yellow wine is in full force. Every restaurant is like a small tavern, and even dumpling shops include it on their menus. Shaoxing is truly flavored with yellow wine.
*Accidentally encountering a wine stall in the neighborhood
So, what exactly does yellow wine taste like?
Compared to the highly distilled baijiu, low-proof huangjiu is gentle and warm, like a pair of thick hands softly caressing your throat and tongue, finally settling comfortably over your stomach.
The richness of huangjiu is unparalleled by any other liquor, and it uniquely possesses a “fresh” flavor.
If you’re willing to invest, using huangjiu as a substitute for cooking wine will make your dishes much more flavorful. Cooking wine is essentially huangjiu mixed with salt and alcohol. The higher the content of huangjiu, the better the quality of the cooking wine. Be sure not to buy those so-called scallion and ginger cooking wines from supermarkets, which are filled with artificial flavors. How do I know this? My father and grandfather were both huangjiu brewers, and they know these things inside out.
Of course, better quality huangjiu is not meant to be used for cooking but to be enjoyed. The six flavors—sweet, sour, spicy, astringent, bitter, and fresh—change over time as the wine matures in the jar. Shaoxing huangjiu becomes more aromatic with age. To put it plainly, the older the wine, the higher its price, and the richer its taste. If you could produce a jar of 1982 huangjiu, it would certainly be valuable.
My father also shared a little-known fact with me: the nickname “huadiao” (which means “carved” and applies to huangjiu aged three years or more) originally came from the carved patterns on the wine jars. He also taught me many terms, allowing me to impress in huangjiu shops and pretend to be an expert.
He said that people who find huangjiu unpalatable are likely drinking yuanhong wine, which, although refreshing, has low sweetness and a more pronounced astringency, making it less immediately enjoyable.
Jiafan wine is slightly sweeter but not significantly different. By the way, jiafan wine does not mean it’s meant for cooking; it’s because less water is added during the brewing process, effectively increasing the proportion of rice.
For beginners, it’s recommended to start with shanning wine, which has a higher sweetness and brings out the unique richness of huangjiu, making it easy to drink. Alternatively, choose the sweetest xiangxue wine, which includes a certain proportion of baijiu, offering a rich and sweet taste that stands out.
Judging the type of wine is simple: the first two have lighter colors, while the latter two are opaque. With this knowledge, even those unfamiliar with huangjiu can guess the variety by looking at the wine’s appearance.
I asked what taidiao is, as I often see it in stores. He explained that taidiao is a product created by Xianheng Hotel, made by blending shanning and jiafan wines, offering a more balanced taste but not considered a separate category in terms of craftsmanship.
After this extensive conversation, I suddenly realized that my usually taciturn father was unusually talkative about huangjiu, and I could almost imagine him glowing with enthusiasm on the other end of the line. Like him, Lu Xun, the Shaoxing native, also had a deep affection for huangjiu.
The character Kong Yiji, who owed money for wine in Lu Xun’s writings, inadvertently became the best spokesperson for Shaoxing huangjiu. The practice of “warming two bowls of wine and serving a plate of fennel beans” has been emulated to this day. There’s also A Q, who drinks to boost his courage, and the Xianheng Hotel in Luzhen, which can hardly be said not to reflect Lu Xun’s love for his hometown’s flavor.
While visiting the Shaoxing Museum, I learned that in the past, Shaoxing people would include huangjiu as part of their daughter’s dowry. Each jar of huangjiu is a taste of time’s, which is also my impression of Shaoxing—an old city full of traces of time, rich and flavorful.
Even though Shaoxing has many other notable features, only huangjiu can fully equate with the city. Eating some small dishes and sipping a bit of huangjiu, would you like to experience such Shaoxing-style living?
Restaurants as Wine Bars: A Guide to Dining in Shaoxing
After dining in Shaoxing for a few days, I’ve come up with some insights. As mentioned earlier, restaurants here, regardless of size, serve huangjiu. In Hangzhou, people might order a case of beer when dining out, but in Shaoxing, locals prefer to order a bucket of huangjiu from the boss and then eat and chat slowly.
Like huangjiu, Shaoxing cuisine is characterized by its freshness, with locals excelling in pickling, marinating, and fermenting, enhancing the natural flavors of the ingredients. Passing by dining establishments, I often see cured meats hanging outside, creating a unique and picturesque scene and serving as delicious accompaniments to huangjiu.
I categorize Shaoxing restaurants into two types: those geared towards tourists, which can generally be found in tourist areas. These have the advantage of bright and spacious environments and a wide variety of wines, but the downside is slightly higher prices. Examples include Xunbaojiu, Lantingji, Aqiu Shiwantou, Kong Yiji Jiujia, and Shaodongjia Sanwei Jiulou.
**Aqiu’s Ten Bowls**
**Address:** 244 Cangqiao Straight Street (Original Store) / 144 Cangqiao Straight Street (New Store)
“Ten Bowls” refers to the ten dishes traditionally served at banquets in Shaoxing. There are various opinions on which ten dishes exactly, but it essentially represents the Shaoxing version of the Manchu-Han Imperial Feast. This restaurant has been in operation in Shaoxing for quite a few years, growing from a small shop to a larger establishment, and is well-regarded by locals.
Upon entering the store, I immediately ordered a plate of fennel beans and half a jin of yellow wine, specifically Taidiao, which had a very pleasant taste. If you find it to your liking, you can even take some home from the store.
Browsing the menu, I found that all the classic local Shaoxing dishes were available. After much deliberation, I chose the taro with dried squid and shrimp. The dish looked quite ordinary, but it was incredibly delicious and surprisingly flavorful.
The highlight was the taro slices and tofu skin coated in rich sauce, which were the essence of the dish.
The famous Shaoxing dish “Steamed Double Stink” had to be ordered. If you’re worried about not being able to handle the strong flavor, you can start with the stinky vegetable stem, made with regular tofu, which has a milder taste. The good stinky vegetable stem is mostly hollow in the middle and is the main contributor to the dish’s strong aroma.
For those who want to try a variety of stinky dishes at once, you can order “Steamed Triple Stink” and “Fermented Thousand-Layer Steamed Pork,” a grand gathering of the stinky family.
Among the dishes to accompany wine, drunken chicken is a must-try. However, I found Aqiu’s version to be just average; it had a wine flavor, but the meat was dry, so I’m warning everyone to avoid it.
**Xianheng Hotel**
**Address:** 179 Lu Xun Middle Road
The Xianheng Hotel in the novel is not entirely fictional. This restaurant, which opened during the Guangxu period, is one of Shaoxing’s most famous old establishments. Passing by, it’s customary to take a photo, and this is partly due to Lu Xun’s influence.
The restaurant is located near the Lu Xun Former Residence scenic area, with its original facade preserved: wooden signboard, L-shaped counter, and long benches, as if time had stood still. Even the wall still has the board showing Kong Yiji’s debt of nineteen coins.
In addition to drunken crabs, there is also the custom of eating duck in Shaoxing during autumn, which is rich in sauce and perfect for pairing with wine.
Other classic Shaoxing dishes like fried stinky tofu, drunken chicken, Shao’s three delicacies, and braised pork with preserved vegetables are must-try items.
When visiting Xianheng Hotel, you must order Taidiao, their signature product. The warm wine, as soon as you bring it close to your mouth, releases an enticing aroma. Unlike mulled wine, which requires additional ingredients to enhance the flavor, yellow wine is perfect as is.
Another type of establishment is the small eateries scattered throughout the streets and alleys, frequented more by locals. The advantages are a good atmosphere and affordable prices; the disadvantages are naturally the less-than-ideal environment and service, and the possibility of not being able to order your desired dish if you arrive late.
However, I still prefer these small eateries, as they offer a more immersive local experience. You don’t need to look at the menu; just order based on the ingredients, straightforward and simple. Although the environment isn’t great, the dishes are very authentic and satisfying to eat.
**Hebutou**
**Address:** 108 Xixiao Road
If you come to Shaoxing for just one meal, I highly recommend heading to Hebutou. Whether it’s the atmosphere or the taste, this place is top-notch, with every dish deserving praise.
The steamed dishes and semi-finished products are displayed right where you order, much more intuitive than looking at pictures.
*By the time I finished and went downstairs, there wasn’t much left on the menu.
The wine at this small eatery is served rather casually, just poured into a glass bottle.
In contrast, the rice wine is more ceremonious, served in its own little pot. I tried it for everyone, and it’s fantastic—perfect for those who don’t drink much but want a slight buzz.
At the restaurant, I ordered another member of the “stinky family” — stinky tofu. Since its internal structure isn’t as hollow as aged tofu, it doesn’t absorb sauce as well, but the flavor is fully infused, and the texture is more chewy.
Different restaurants have different presentations of braised pork with preserved vegetables. Some serve the meat sliced, others in chunks, and some even come with lotus leaf pancakes to wrap the meat.
Hebutou is more down-to-earth, using traditional bowls and classic methods. The pork belly is marbled with fat and lean, cooked to perfection; the preserved vegetables soaked in the sauce ensure a burst of freshness with every bite.
You can ask the boss to arrange a platter of cured meats, including sausages and quail, and even add some braised spare ribs. Cantonese-style sausages are great for fried rice, while Shaoxing sausages are lower in salt but no less flavorful, perfect for pairing with drinks. The sensation of the fat bursting in your mouth is simply delightful—definitely a must-order.
I must admit, I took home the leftover fried peanuts from the restaurant. It’s truly a place where everything you order is delicious.
Ding Laixing Tavern
Address: No. 160, West Street
This place is tucked away in an alley, with ordering based on available ingredients. When the indoor seating was full, the boss simply set up a table for me on the street. The recently popular iQIYI series “The Mist” filmed scenes here at Ding Laixing, likely drawn by the authentic street atmosphere.
Fermented crab and shrimp are a must-try. The only downside to eating Shaoxing fermented crab is that it’s messy, but with such enticing crab roe, it’s hard to resist.
My hometown of Huzhou also makes fermented shrimp, but Shaoxing’s sauce has a stronger soy sauce flavor and uses larger shrimp. The advantage is the Q- (Q- shrimp meat), but the downside is that it takes a while to fully absorb the flavor, which is a matter of personal preference.
Shaosanxian and taro with dried squid are both large dishes. The lineup of pork skin, fish balls, salted meatballs, and river shrimp actually exceeds the three main ingredients, ensuring it’s delicious.
Visiting a Jiangnan city wouldn’t be complete without sampling some pastries. Shaoxing yin gao, as the name suggests, has characters stamped on top, filled with a refreshing mint-flavored sweet bean paste.
The restaurant’s yellow wine and rice wine are homemade. The boss frequently shares delicious Shaoxing dishes on WeChat, showing a genuine passion for food.
Old Street Restaurant
Address: No. 7, West Xiaolu
This restaurant is located on a historic street, offering a traditional dining experience. The dishes here are simple yet full of flavor, reflecting the authentic taste of Shaoxing.
Laojie Restaurant and Hebutou are located on the same street, at opposite ends. It leans more towards a family-style eatery, not very famous, with limited seating capacity, but the taste of the dishes is worth making room for in your stomach.
I ordered salted river shrimp and steamed plum fish. The ingredients were fresh, and the dishes were delicious even without much seasoning.
The steamed double stink had a perfect aroma, not too overwhelming for me.
The dried soy sauce duck had a unique flavor, not overly salty, and you could taste the natural aroma of the duck. I easily finished half a duck by myself.
Since it’s not a famous restaurant, the prices are really affordable. It’s a great deal to eat such delicious food at a scenic spot.
There are a few other restaurants I didn’t get a chance to try but heard good things about: Fengle Restaurant, Koufu Restaurant, and Dingwang Hotel.
There are many good small eateries in Shaoxing. The simplest way to choose a restaurant is to see if the signature dishes are what you most want to eat.
Here’s a little tip for ordering: besides soy sauce dishes, fried items can also be mixed. You can order a plate of fried stinky tofu, fried rings, and spring rolls, allowing you to try several varieties. To be honest, Shaoxing’s fried rings are not inferior to Hangzhou’s.
As for drunken crabs, I recommend Grandma’s Deli and Drunken Crab Craftsman for takeaway. Each store has slightly different seasoning, some sweeter, some stronger in alcohol flavor. My experience is that you need to try a few to find your favorite.
Huangjiu: I have more tricks up my sleeve.
Based on my practical experience, buying wine at a restaurant is not the most economical. You should go to a store that specializes in selling Huangjiu on the street, but never in a scenic area, as the prices are much higher (a lesson I learned the hard way).
*Outside, Tai Diao Wang is only 40 yuan, and the taste is just as good.
Before coming to Shaoxing, I thought finding a place to buy wine would be a bit of a hassle, but I found stores everywhere, even three or four on the same street.
For personal consumption, buying by the bottle is the most economical. A plastic bottle is one jin, and the wine in specialty stores is sourced directly from the Huangjiu factory, not from unknown brands, so you can buy with confidence.
If you’re buying for gifts, the stores also have packaged finished products. Gu Yue Long Shan, Hui Ji Shan, Bao Long Shan, Ta Pai, and Xian Heng are some of the more common local brands. The differences between stores are minimal, and each store has a wide variety, ensuring you can find the right product.
Coming to the hometown of Huangjiu, it’s not just about drinking; various Huangjiu-derived foods are also worth trying.
Huangjiu ice cream tops the list, with a uniform price of 5 yuan per stick throughout the city. I had the Yiman brand (look for the cylindrical shape), which had a rich milk flavor with a slight Huangjiu taste, and you could even taste pearl barley. Highly recommended.
The second best is Huangjiu double skin milk, with a strong wine flavor that perfectly balances the sweetness, completely changing my perception of double skin milk.
Third place goes to Huangjiu egg drop soup. Hot Huangjiu is really intoxicating, and this dessert is perfect for winter.
Fourth is Huangjiu milk tea, which has the least Huangjiu flavor. I found it quite similar to regular milk tea.
I also came across mùlián tofu flavored with huángjiǔ (yellow wine), but I was too full to buy it. If any friends have tried it, please leave a comment and let me know what it tastes like.
Regarding huángjiǔ, I’d like to recommend Huìjǐng Xuān. I first learned about this brand at a market in Hangzhou. They are likely the only company in China currently making huángjiǔ more appealing to younger audiences, somewhat like how Jiāngxiǎobái has done for báijiǔ (white liquor).
In their physical store in Shaoxing, I tasted delicious huángjiǔ-flavored desserts. They also sell wine, and their huángjiǔ has a low alcohol content and a refreshing taste. Adding some ice in the summer makes it incredibly enjoyable, not inferior to plum wine.
There are far too few scenarios created in the marketing of huángjiǔ, making people rarely think of drinking it. I hope more brands like Huìjǐng Xuān emerge, giving more young people the opportunity to discover huángjiǔ.
I also visited the Huángjiǔ Museum, which was built by Gǔyuè Lóngshān. Although it contains some promotional content, a tour around it does provide a general understanding of the entire history of huángjiǔ and how to distinguish between different types.
I didn’t realize that, apart from Shaoxing, there are other old huángjiǔ brands across the country, such as Shíkùmén in Shanghai, Shāzhōu Yōuhuáng in Jiangsu, and Jímò Lǎojiǔ in Shandong.
The 30 yuan admission ticket includes a tasting voucher for four different types of huángjiǔ. After a few days of practice, I could already identify the varieties by taste, which was a gain from this trip.
Since the ticket also came with a 10 yuan discount voucher, there were quite a few people shopping in the museum’s shopping area. But after browsing enough wine shops, I ventured into the adjacent handmade brewing area, where I saw a master craftsman soaking rice at the entrance, and the room was filled with wine jars, looking like a small winery.
They only sell Xiāngxuě wine here, which can be bought by the cup or by the jar. I tasted it and found the flavor to be indeed excellent.
In between drinking and dining, I took the opportunity to enjoy the autumn scenery.
Autumn in the cities of Jiangnan is always beautiful, with plane trees, ginkgo trees, and maple trees displaying their colors in turn. A casual stroll can make one feel the essence of autumn.
If you don’t want to walk too much, you can take a wūpéng boat. There are quite a few wūpéng boat docks in the old city, and they can be found in most scenic areas. I think the 60 yuan per boat fare is worth it, serving as a convenient means of transportation between attractions.
Shaoxing’s attractions are relatively concentrated. If you like strolling through old streets, you can visit Bāzì Bridge, Cāngqiáo Straight Street, Fǔshān Héng Street, and Xīxiǎo Road. Walking along the river is truly relaxing.
Bāzì Bridge is less crowded and has a very lively atmosphere. The Wasteland Bookstore, which has been open for ten years, is worth a visit, with the owner having excellent taste in selecting books.
Cāngqiáo Straight Street has the most food options, including stinky tofu, fermented rice buns, cream pastries, and various cakes. Just the snacks alone can fill you up.
There are also two popular coffee shops in Shaoxing that are side by side, competing. I visited one called Coffee Guy, where the owner, who looks a bit like Mǎdí, makes a good pour-over coffee.
Fǔshān Héng Street is an open-air market, the most vibrant place in Shaoxing, bustling every day. I bought stinky tofu and sausages here to take home, both cheap and delicious.
Xīxiǎo Road is quieter than Bāzì Bridge, and the iconic Lǚ Mansion, an old Tai-style building in Shaoxing, is hidden among these old houses.
If you’re willing to hike, Fǔshān Park offers great views. From the highest point, you can overlook the entire city of Shaoxing. Going back a thousand years, the King of Yue, Gōujiàn, who returned from serving the state of Wú, began rebuilding his country from this mountain. I wonder what kind of scenery he saw back then.
There is also Wén Zhǒng’s tomb on the mountain, which I specifically went to see. Wén Zhǒng contributed the Seven Strategies for Conquering Wú but ultimately died in a political struggle.
Shaoxing is home to so many famous figures that the city boasts numerous former residences within its scenic spots: Qiu Jin’s former residence, Zhou Enlai’s former residence, Cai Yuanpei’s former residence, and Wang Yangming’s hometown. Among these, the largest are Lu Xun’s former residence (which includes the Three Flavors Study, the Hundred Herb Garden, the memorial hall, and the residence itself) and the Former Residence of the Calligraphy Sage (a garden-style architectural complex), as well as the Shen Garden where Lu You wrote “The Phoenix Hairpin.”
If you enjoy visiting museums, I recommend the Xu Wei Art Museum and the Shiyeyuan Museum. Both are located on the same street and are newly opened this year. They boast excellent exteriors and exhibits.
This trip to Shaoxing brought me the second greatest discovery: Xu Wei. This Shaoxing-born artist of the Ming Dynasty was proficient in poetry, calligraphy, and painting, especially in painting.
His style of splashed-ink freehand painting was highly revered by later generations of calligraphers and painters, including Qi Baishi and Wu Changshuo. The charm of Chinese ink art is fully unleashed in this museum.
The only downside is that the calligraphy and paintings on display are all high-quality reproductions. Most of Xu Wei’s original works are kept in the Forbidden City, which also underscores the preciousness of his creations back then.
Lastly, I must shout out: all the above attractions and museums are free of charge! Shaoxing is truly a city with a conscience.
Overall, Shaoxing is a great city for a weekend getaway. It’s just a 20-minute high-speed train ride from Hangzhou, with frequent services. For those near Metro Line 5, it’s a short subway ride away (ending at Keqiao, then a short taxi ride to the city center). It’s also convenient for nearby cities to drive to. However, the depth of Shaoxing’s cultural offerings cannot be fully explored in just a weekend; it’s like huangjiu (yellow wine) that needs to be savored slowly.
On the way back, I looked up the sales status of huangjiu in China last year and was surprised to find that the data showed a decline.
A sense of responsibility for the of craftsmanship suddenly ignited within me. However, since I don’t possess any artisanal skills, I can only write this article to promote these places and decided to buy stocks of Kuaijishan and Guyuelongshan, planning to hold them for the long term (compared to Feitian Moutai, their stock prices are distressingly low).
So, could it be that the resurgence of huangjiu’s glory will coincide with my own rise to fortune?
