Uncovering hidden gems, we are professionals. After all, China is not short of fun places; what it lacks are eyes to discover them. For the high-speed rail circle of Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Shanghai, it’s time for Zhenjiang, Jiangsu, to shine!
**Zhenjiang Yuntai Pavilion**
The “Thirteen Guardians of Jiangsu” each have their own pride. Cities like Suzhou, Nanjing, and Yangzhou are well-known, overshadowing others that are somewhat unfamiliar.
But if Zhenjiang is considered low-key, it’s actually subtly promoted in various small eateries across Jiangsu.
During my recent trip around Jiangsu, I found that in most authentic noodle shops, a bottle of Zhenjiang-produced fragrant vinegar is a standard offering.
The taste of Zhenjiang vinegar is sour but not harsh, with a slight hint of sweetness. Adding a bit to cold dishes or as a dipping sauce enhances the flavor without masking the original taste of the food—it’s the perfect supporting actor on the dining table (see the article for tips on choosing vinegar)!
Following the scent of vinegar, I found its origin: Zhenjiang. Known as the “Vinegar Capital of China,” the brand value of Zhenjiang vinegar reaches 45.892 billion yuan, second only to Moutai.
Behind the scent of vinegar, a low-key ancient city emerges. Let me say this first: Zhenjiang is truly rich in substance!
Zhenjiang was once called Jingkou, a name that carries weight. Situated at the confluence of the Grand Canal and the Yangtze River, it was strategically located at the crossroads of two major “highways” in ancient times when long-distance travel and transportation relied on waterways.
Many heroes traveled north and south, scholars climbed mountains and crossed waters, merchants traded east and west, and officials were transferred left and right—often passing through this crucial point.
**Spring at Zhenjiang’s Xijin Ferry**
Poets who arrived here would spontaneously recite: “How many events of rise and fall throughout history? Endless. The Yangtze River flows on and on.” (From “Southward Journey: Climbing Beigu Pavilion in Jingkou” by Xin Qiji) “The spring breeze turns the south bank of the Yangtze green again; when will the bright moon shine upon my return?” (From “Mooring at Guazhou” by Wang Anshi)—lines that are meant to be read and memorized in full.
Zhenjiang exudes a captivating charm, not the gentle Jiangnan of apricot blossoms and spring rain, but rather a boldness in facing the mighty Yangtze River.
**Image by Gongga**
Ancient scholars in Zhenjiang not only indulged in poetic inspiration but also produced monumental works.
China’s first literary theory and criticism treatise, “Wenxin Diaolong,” the pioneering work in Chinese note fiction, “Shishuo Xinyu,” the first anthology of poetry and prose in Chinese literature, “Zhaoming Wenzuan,” and the “scientific coordinates of the 11th century,” “Mengxi Bitan”—these renowned works were all written in Zhenjiang.
Zhenjiang is also prone to legendary tales. Liu Bei of the Three Kingdoms era held his wedding here, Bai Suzhen’s dramatic rescue of Xu Xian in “The Legend of the White Snake” involved flooding Jinshan Temple, and the origin of the Mao Shan Taoists, frequently featured in Hong Kong films, is also in Zhenjiang.
As I read through the materials, I couldn’t help but wonder, Zhenjiang, how many more surprises do you hold that I don’t know about?
The mighty Yangtze River, embodying Zhenjiang’s heroic spirit.
Zhenjiang has many interesting places to explore, all conveniently located within a small area. The “Three Hills and One Ferry” plus a museum make for an ideal one-day weekend getaway. There’s plenty to see without feeling too rushed.
The “Three Hills of Jingkou” refer to Jinshan, Jiaoshan, and Beigushan, three mountains lined up along the Yangtze River, serving as the local residents’ backyard playgrounds. Though not particularly tall, each has its own rich history and stories to tell.
**Jinshan**
Among the Three Hills of Jingkou, Jinshan is the most well-known. After all, the story of Lady White is a household tale, and her battle with Fahai, resulting in the flood at Jinshan Temple, took place here. Fahai was the founding abbot of Jinshan Temple, and the cave where he lived is known as “Fahai Cave.”
Additionally, legends such as “Liang Hongyu’s Drum Battle Against the Jin Army,” “Su Dongpo’s Moonlit Dance at Miaogao Terrace,” and “The Departure of Monk Tang from the Journey to the West,” all occurred here.
Exploring Jinshan Temple is fascinating, as the temple itself is built into the mountain. It follows the natural contours, with halls and pavilions stacked from the foot to the summit. As you walk, it feels more like strolling through connected pavilions rather than climbing a mountain, with each step revealing a new vista.
Visiting in spring, the misty rain adds an ethereal quality. In summer, the lotus blooms are stunning, though it can be quite hot.
Take note of the orientation of Jinshan Temple’s entrance. Unlike most Chinese temples, which face south, Jinshan’s entrance faces west, directly towards the Yangtze River, breaking the traditional north-south layout.
**Beigushan**
Beigushan is a mountain that lives in ancient poetry. Great poets like Liu Yong, Su Shi, and Lu You have all visited and written about it.
Famous works such as “Yongyu Le·Huaigu Beiguting in Jingkou,” “Ci Beigushan Xia,” and “Naxiangzi·Deng Jingkou Beiguting Youhuai” were composed here.
The mountain is also home to Ganlu Temple, where Liu Bei prepared to welcome Lady Sun during his marriage to the Eastern Wu princess.
Despite its modest height of 55 meters, Beigushan offers excellent views.
From here, one can better appreciate the poetic landscapes that inspired lines like “Where to gaze upon the Divine Land? The splendid scenery of Beigulou,” which are now part of school curricula.
**Jiaoshan**
Jiaoshan is an island surrounded by the Yangtze River on all sides. In summer, the surrounding waters are a vibrant green, and the lush forests make it resemble a floating jade, hence its nickname “Fuyu.”
Though not as famous, Jiaoshan has its own dedicated fans, especially among calligraphy enthusiasts who highly recommend it.
The mountain is home to the first-ranked stele forest in the south: Jiaoshan Stele Forest. The steles, mainly concentrated on the western cliffs, include over a hundred cliff carvings from the Six Dynasties period, offering a grand and impressive sight.
While the Xi’an Stele Forest in the north is well-known, Jiaoshan’s stele forest, ranking second, is likely only visited by seasoned enthusiasts.
Be sure to check out “Yihe Ming” (meaning “Inscription for the Burial of Cranes,” a tribute written by a calligrapher for his beloved cranes), a highlight of Jiaoshan’s stele forest.
In the history of Chinese calligraphy, there is a saying about the “Two Inscriptions of the North and South.” In the north, there is the “Stone Gate Inscription,” and in the south, the “Inscription on the Tomb of the Crane” takes the lead. Many renowned Chinese calligraphers have practiced with its rubbings (including Ouyang Xun of the Tang Dynasty, Huang Tingjian and Mi Fu of the Song Dynasty, Bada Shanren of the Qing Dynasty, and Li Shutong of the Republic of China), considering it a model for large-sized characters.
However, its journey has been particularly tumultuous. It has been struck by lightning and fallen into the river. Over the centuries, it has been salvaged by various dynasties, resulting in the continuous emergence of fragments. Today, Jiaoshan Mountain has even dedicated an exhibition hall for it.
In summary, calligraphy enthusiasts cherish this place dearly.
**Xijin Ancient Ferry**
Since the Three Kingdoms period, this has been a famous ferry crossing on the Yangtze River. Opposite is the entrance to the Grand Canal in the north, and all south-north traffic must pass through here. Xijin Ancient Ferry has always been practical, being a strategically important location known as the “Key Passage of Wu and Chu, the Grain Route of Seven Provinces, and the Throat of the Grain Transport.”
Wang Anshi embarked from Xijin Ferry to cross the river north and wrote the famous “Mooring at Guazhou”: “Between Jingkou and Guazhou lies a stretch of water, separated from Zhongshan by only a few mountains. The spring breeze turns the south bank green again, when will the bright moon shine to guide my return?” Marco Polo, the Italian traveler of the Yuan Dynasty, arrived in Zhenjiang from Yangzhou and also disembarked at Xijin Ferry.
Xijin Ferry has been meticulously planned. The streets are paved with flagstones, lined with brick-and-wood shops, and adorned with carved eaves inns. The streets are clean, not overly commercialized, and strolling through them feels refreshingly pleasant.
Within Xijin Ferry, there is also the Zhaoguan Stone Pagoda, which is a must-see.
It is one of the famous four pagodas in Zhenjiang (the other three being the Cishou Pagoda at Jinshan Temple, the Weigong Iron Pagoda at Ganlu Temple, and the Sengjia Pagoda at Meiying Garden). The pagoda is about 5 meters high and is a Yuan Dynasty structure, similar in appearance to the White Pagoda in Beijing’s Beihai Park.
However, such Yuan Dynasty street-crossing pagodas like this one are now only found in this single location nationwide.
**Zhenjiang Museum**
Not far from Xijin Ferry, there is also the Zhenjiang Museum, which must be included in your itinerary! Although small, it is exquisite and will pleasantly surprise you. Among the first-class museums in Jiangsu, it has its own unique charm.
The silver-plated golden phoenix crown in the museum’s collection is a masterpiece of craftsmanship!
Exhibits include the bronze phoenix bird vessel from the Western Zhou Dynasty, the blue-and-white porcelain jar with cloud and dragon patterns from the Yuan Dynasty, the gilt silver box from the Tang Dynasty, and the handscroll of bird and flower paintings by Bada Shanren from the Qing Dynasty… You will discover many fascinating artifacts. The museum is not large, and the five exhibition areas are easy to explore.
Above: Blue-and-white porcelain jar with cloud and dragon patterns
Below: Gilt silver box with double parrot patterns and lotus petal lid
Not only are the artifacts worth seeing, but the architecture of the Zhenjiang Museum itself is also noteworthy. It was originally built in the late 19th century as the British Consulate. This consulate, built in the East Indian style, has been well preserved, making the museum itself a significant historical artifact.
**Zhenjiang, Delicious to the Point of Wanting to Eat Vinegar!**
What to eat in Zhenjiang? Of course, it’s best to follow the local culinary guide. The signature dishes of Zhenjiang can be summarized as: one point, two heads, three fish + the three wonders of Zhenjiang.
One point refers to the crab-yellow soup bun, two heads are the stewed crab-powder lion’s head and the deboned carp head, and three fish are knife fish, shad, and river-sprout fish.
Zhenjiang and Yangzhou are separated by a river, and their flavors are dominated by Huaiyang cuisine. Signature Huaiyang dishes like the famous Da Zhu Gan Si (boiled dried tofu shreds) and Shi Zi Tou (lion’s head meatballs) known for their intricate knife work can all be found in Zhenjiang.
When it comes to the top specialties, the “Three Wonders of Zhenjiang”—fragrant vinegar, pot-lid noodles, and pork jelly—cannot be overlooked. There is even a rhyme about them: “Fragrant vinegar never spoils, pork jelly isn’t a dish, and pot-lid noodles are cooked in a pot with a lid inside.”
**Zhenjiang Vinegar**
**Vinegar that has made it into a museum**
Many people get to know Zhenjiang through a bottle of Zhenjiang fragrant vinegar found in supermarkets.
Zhenjiang locals have been consuming this vinegar for centuries and have developed a deep appreciation for it. Dishes like vinegar-braised fish and Zhenjiang vinegar ribs… a splash of fragrant vinegar in stir-fries and stews to remove fishiness and cut through grease—that’s the authentic Zhenjiang flavor.
**China Vinegar Culture Museum in Zhenjiang**
When enjoying hairy crabs or crab roe soup dumplings, it’s indispensable for seasoning, as its fresh acidity enhances the natural sweetness of the crab meat. A bottle of fragrant vinegar permeates through the three meals of the day.
**Zhenjiang Fragrant Vinegar and Soup Dumplings Image @ Documentary “A Bite of China”**
Recommending Zhenjiang fragrant vinegar presented a significant dilemma in my culinary journey: although I’ve been eating vinegar since childhood, I never knew how to choose the right one! Extraordinary vinegar, first-grade vinegar, white vinegar, rice vinegar, aged vinegar, fragrant vinegar… I was completely confused.
**China Vinegar Culture Museum in Zhenjiang**
So, how does one choose vinegar? Taking this opportunity, I delved into the classifications of vinegar and compiled a guide to eating vinegar for everyone. (Some oddly interesting knowledge has grown, hasn’t it?)
When purchasing Zhenjiang fragrant vinegar, you can refer to the following criteria:
1. Look for the execution standard on the label: GB/T18623 solid-state fermentation
The letter “GB” at the beginning indicates brewed vinegar, while “SB” indicates blended vinegar (generally not recommended).
2. Look for the geographical indication protection product mark on the label
It restricts the geographical scope, and products outside this scope cannot use this mark. Generally, choosing a product with this mark is more reliable.
3. According to national standards, the total acidity of brewed vinegar must be ≥3.5g/100ml.
Higher values indicate more thorough fermentation and better quality, but higher acidity doesn’t necessarily mean better seasoning. You can choose based on your taste preference.
When visiting Zhenjiang, you can conveniently pick up a bottle, or you can also recommend purchasing online through Taobao. Armed with this methodology, I promptly ordered a bottle of premium Hengshun Zhenjiang fragrant vinegar with a national geographical indication.
ps: There is also the Zhenjiang Chinese Vinegar Culture Museum in Zhenjiang, which you can visit along the way to learn about its past and present.
**Guo Gai Noodles**
Guo Gai Noodles, as the name suggests, involves cooking noodles with a wooden lid placed in the pot. This practice is said to have originated in the Qing Dynasty, but the name “Guo Gai Noodles” was coined in 1979 for promotional purposes.
Whether the wooden lid actually enhances the flavor of the noodles or is merely a marketing gimmick, I cannot say. However, this bowl of noodles is truly worth trying!
The noodles used in Guo Gai Noodles are called “Tiao Mian.” Here’s a look at the process: the dough is placed on a board, and the noodle master sits on one end of a bamboo rod, with the other end fixed to the board. They bounce up and down, repeatedly pressing the dough to form thin sheets of noodles.
The noodles, after being hammered and pressed multiple times, are truly exceptional. They have many pores, making it easy for the broth to penetrate, and they have a chewy texture. If anyone says that southern noodles are weak and boneless, Guo Gai Noodles would be the first to disagree!
The broth is also rich and hearty, making it hard not to finish every drop.
**Restaurant Recommendations**
🥢 **Dahua Noodle House (Daxi Road Branch)**
A top-tier “cangying” noodle house in Zhenjiang, well-known among locals. The noodles come with generous toppings, and the braised beef noodles, beef tripe noodles, and eel noodles are highly recommended.
Address: Dahua Noodle House (Daxi Road Branch), in front of Dahua Cinema, Daxi Road, Runzhou District, Zhenjiang
🥢 **Lao Zhao Noodle House**
Lao Zhao Noodle House is as famous in Zhenjiang as Dahua. It often has long lines during holidays. Recommended dishes include eel and kidney noodles, braised beef noodles, and intestines noodles.
Address: Lao Zhao Noodle House (Daxi Road Branch), No. 99-27, Daxi Road, Jingkou District, Zhenjiang
🥢 **Gao Ji Dumpling House**
A small eatery found in an alley of the old town, not very well-known but a favorite among locals. The noodles here are truly delicious!
Address: Gao Ji Dumpling House, Unit 1, Building 1, No. 4 Yizheng Road, Jingkou District, Zhenjiang
Of course, these are just recommendations. Every Zhenjiang resident has their own favorite noodle house, each with its unique characteristics. They are often hidden in the depths of the streets and alleys, and you can find them by following the aroma. Also, most noodle houses close at 2 PM, so if you want to try them, go early.
**Crab Yellow Soup Dumplings**
Crab Yellow Soup Dumplings are also a must-try for seasoned foodies.
The freshly steamed dumplings have thin, translucent skins glistening with oil; gently lift one, and you can see the soup sloshing inside the thin skin. The good ones have plump, firm crab meat, sweet and savory.
Locals have even summarized the proper way to eat them: “Gently move, slowly lift, first open the window, then drink the soup.”
Zhenjiang vinegar and soup dumplings, as featured in the documentary “A Bite of China.”
The habit of seasoned diners is to lift the skin of the soup dumpling and often add a few drops of authentic Zhenjiang aromatic vinegar to enhance the flavor.
**Restaurant Recommendation**
🥢 **Huotou Shao Crab Yellow Soup Dumpling (Dashikou Branch)**
The YYDS of Zhenjiang soup dumplings, these are large and generously filled with crab powder and crab meat. Also recommended are the bone broth wontons and radish pastry. This is an old shop, with a newer branch in Xijin Ferry, which is slightly more expensive.
**Address:** No. 8 Mituo Temple Lane, Jingkou District, Zhenjiang City, Huotou Shao Crab Yellow Soup Dumpling (Carnival Plaza Branch)
**Crystal Pork Joint**
Crystal Pork Joint is a representative dish of Huaiyang cuisine. It was once selected as the main cold dish for the “First Banquet of the Founding of the Nation” and is a well-known dish that has seen the world.
After marinating the pig’s trotters and simmering them, they are cooled and left to set before being sliced and served.
A piece of meat that is crystal clear and smooth is presented. The authentic way to eat it is with Zhenjiang aromatic vinegar and ginger to balance the richness of the meat.
Without the vinegar, the pork joint loses much of its charm.
Image @Documentary “A Bite of China”
The oily, smooth, and elastic texture of the pork joint is quite distinctive, and I don’t think everyone will like it, but curious friends can give it a try~
If you want to try all the snacks mentioned above, I recommend heading to a breakfast tea house. In Zhenjiang, breakfast is a world of various pastries. A plate of crystal pork joint, a basket of crab yellow soup dumplings, a dish of Zhenjiang vinegar, and a few slices of ginger make for a delicious meal.
Image @IVIVIVIVY
🥢 **Yanchun Restaurant (Dashikou Branch)**
An old teahouse with over 100 years of history, many Zhenjiang locals have dined here. The standard breakfast includes pot-cover noodles, soup dumplings, pork joint, and ginger.
**Address:** No. 87 Jiefang Road, Jingkou District, Zhenjiang City, Yanchun Restaurant (Dashikou Branch)
🥢 **Bishirong Jinshan Breakfast (Beigu Bay Branch)**
One of the representative breakfast places in Zhenjiang, also a chain with many branches,. The breakfast menu is extensive, with fish soup noodles being a specialty, and crab yellow soup dumplings and dry-fried noodles also being good.
**Address:** No. 25-2 Dongwu Road, Jingkou District, Zhenjiang City, Bishirong Jinshan Breakfast (Beigu Bay Branch)
**Duck Blood Vermicelli**
While Nanjing’s duck blood vermicelli is well-known, the originator of duck blood vermicelli can be traced back to a scholar from Zhenjiang named Mei Ming.
After multiple failed attempts at the imperial examinations, he turned to the catering industry and opened a restaurant in Zhenjiang called “Duck First Knows,” where the signature snack was a bowl of duck blood vermicelli soup. Even the editor-in-chief of the “Shen Bao” newspaper, Jiang Zixiang, came to taste it.
Image @Xiao He E Le Ma
It seems that the people of Zhenjiang have had a long-standing love for a bowl of duck blood vermicelli soup. In the streets and alleys of Zhenjiang, the probability of encountering duck blood vermicelli is second only to that of the pot cover noodles.
A simple bowl of duck blood vermicelli holds a significant place among Zhenjiang’s snacks.
The translucent vermicelli is smooth yet chewy, soaked in a milky white soup that is fresh but not overpowering. In addition to tender duck blood, one can add duck intestines, duck liver, bean sprouts, and various other condiments, with options ranging from simple to lavish, and finish it off with a sprinkle of green coriander.
Image by @Sifan Classmate
Eating a bowl hot off the stove brings great satisfaction!
🥢 Jin Jin Old Duck Vermicelli Restaurant – A local favorite, the shopfront may not be eye-catching, but the taste is quite good.
Address: No. 22-11 Zhengdong Road, Jingkou District, Zhenjiang City, Jin Jin Old Duck Vermicelli Restaurant (Zhengdong Road Branch)
🥢 Wang’s Duck Blood Vermicelli – A decade-old shop in Zhenjiang, with a loyal following. The ingredients are plentiful, and you can enjoy a bowl for around 10 yuan.
Address: No. 99 Baota Road, Runzhou District, Zhenjiang City, Wang’s Duck Blood Vermicelli (Baota Road Branch)
I wonder, dear shareholders, if you like this recommendation from Zhenjiang? Spending one or two days in Zhenjiang, exploring this city where culture, nature, and history are well-preserved, I believe it will definitely surprise you!
🚗
/Travel Tips/
Transportation: Zhenjiang is within the high-speed rail circle of Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Shanghai. If you’re coming from Hangzhou, it takes only 2.5 hours by high-speed train, with many train options. It’s perfect for a weekend getaway to shop and relax.
Accommodation: Zhenjiang is not a large city, but the hotel options are quite diverse. You can choose from Sheraton, Crowne Plaza, Zhenjiang Guest House, Hyatt, or opt for a business hotel like Atour.
