Every time I walk by West Lake, I can’t help but marvel at the urban layout of Hangzhou. The heart of the city, a prime location where land is worth its weight in gold, is entirely dedicated to scenic beauty. It’s almost surreal that such a vast scenic area is completely free to visit.
The restriction on building heights around historical sites and scenic areas is a global consensus. Therefore, you won’t see towering structures by West Lake. The lake view you see is gentle and serene.
West Lake in sunny weather, under the rain, or covered in snow—each form is breathtaking, making you recall the ancient poems praising the lake.
During long holidays like May Day and National Day, West Lake often ranks among the top spots on tourists’ complaint lists.
“What I saw wasn’t the Broken Bridge, but a sea of heads.”
“I’m not strolling by West Lake; I’m walking in a crowded competition by West Lake…”
Now, the boatmen of the rowboats are quite idle. Some nap on their boats, others play with their phones on the shore, occasionally calling out to attract customers. It’s far from the peak season when guests would flock to them.
Photographer Potato and I chose two weekdays and a relatively economical and non-competitive way to rediscover this “World’s West Lake.”
We took the newly opened “West Lake Circular Tour Line,” which you can simply think of as a water bus on West Lake. It charges by the stop, and each stop is a major scenic spot around the lake, making every stop worthwhile.
The fare is also affordable, ranging from 6 to 8 yuan per stop.
For us, who commute from the tech parks to the city center, this feels like another Hangzhou. The good weather, atmosphere, and scenery are far too incompatible with work.
On a sunny day, the blue lake surface even gives off the feeling of the ocean.
Mandarin ducks float on the lake, “drifting with the waves.” I say these ducks are lucky, lying flat on the lake, passively drifting with West Lake’s waves, while many tourists on the shore adore them and they won’t be eaten.
The lake’s ripples are quite cooperative, putting on a dazzling show with the sun, presenting a shimmering spectacle.
The distant mountains, some deep blue, some light blue, make it hard to tell if you’re in a painting or reality.
Yes, this is the newly opened circular line around West Lake, reminiscent of a sea train! Boarding this “pirate ship,” I felt an instant transition from a worker to a vacationer.
🚣♀️ Just 6 Yuan 🚣♀️
To reach the hidden corners of West Lake
What kind of route is this?
West Lake has a total of 28 docks, and this route selects the 10 most interesting ones and connects them with a loop line around the lake.
The route map is as follows↓
Tingwan Qishe (One Park) → Huping Qingyu (Five Park) → Duanqiao Canxue (Youth Palace) → Pinghu Qiuyue (Zhongshan Park) → Huahaoyueyuan (Hangfan) → Quyuan Fenghe (Guozhuang) → Maoxiang Shuiqing (Du Jinsheng’s Former Residence) → Huagang Guanyu → Shibaxiangsong (Changqiao) → Qian Ci Biaozhong (Qianwang Temple) → Tingwan Qishe (One Park)
Starting from One Park on Nanshan Road, you will pass by Five Park, Youth Palace, Pinghu Qiuyue… Each stop is highly entertaining, and you can spend a whole day exploring just one station.
Potato and I are completely in love with this boat tour. As the boat sails on the lake, the bustling commercial areas along the West Lake shore slowly recede, and the ripples left by the boat’s wake reflect the sunlight, shimmering.
The retro boat floats on the water, with the bustling business district around West Lake as the backdrop. The photographer says this is a strong collision between modernity and retro.
This scene in front of me reminds me of the sea surface when I used to go diving, bringing tears to my eyes 😿
I even had the idea of jumping directly into the water, but then I realized: this is late autumn in Hangzhou with temperatures below 10 degrees, not the tropics, no way!
If you go now, you might still be able to feel the tail end of Hangzhou’s autumn 🍂. Viewing the Broken Bridge, Su Causeway, Leifeng Pagoda, and Baochu Pagoda from the center of the lake is quite pleasant.
What are the advantages of this boat tour?
1. Carefully selected attractions
Each stop along the route is highly entertaining! Even leisurely exploring, the attractions around one dock can keep you busy for a day.
2. Very flexible way to explore West Lake
A cost-effective “amphibious” approach, allowing you to disembark or board the boat as you wish.
For example, if we wanted to see the retro-style Youth Palace, we could disembark flexibly and take a ride on a retro-style Ferris wheel.
3. Access to Xili Lake, a hidden gem
West Lake is divided into Outer West Lake, Inner West Lake, Xili Lake, Little South Lake, and Yue Lake by the lake’s Gushan, Bai Causeway, and Su Causeway.
The lake to the north of Gushan and Bai Causeway is Inner West Lake.
By taking the West Lake water bus, you can pass through a bridge and sneak into this “Inner West Lake.”
4. Full-time guide commentary
During the boat tour, the guide will inform everyone about the sights on the nearby mountains, the lake surface, and the shores, along with the stories associated with them. Many of these stories were new to me.
When disembarking, I was deeply grateful to the guide for making me fall even more in love with West Lake.
How to plan your trip?
If you enjoy experiencing the lake scenery from the boat, you can stay on until the end, which costs 70 yuan in total (approximately two hours), slightly cheaper than a traditional.
The price for and ranges from 150 to 180 yuan per hour, with each boat accommodating about 4 people. If shared among four, the cost is quite reasonable.
If you prefer the scenery on land, you can hop on and off at different stops, switching between water and land modes as you wish. Generally, the travel time between two waterway stops is between 3 to 8 minutes.
However, there are some drawbacks to this mode of travel:
This route is relatively new, so some shortcomings in the experience are to be expected, but overall, it’s quite pleasant.
1. Ticket purchasing can be chaotic, with often difficulty finding the ticket sellers, and the water bus station signs are not very noticeable.
2. You need to estimate the time at each stop yourself.
The starting point has a boat departing every 30 minutes, but for subsequent stops, the arrival time of the boat is only a vague estimate.
If there were a timetable at each stop, informing passengers of the approximate arrival and departure times of the boats, it would be much more convenient for everyone to plan their time.
🚣♀️ Each dock where you disembark 🚣♀️
Holds a winning hand
This winning hand is not just about the beautiful scenery but also includes restaurants that have been famous in Hangzhou for decades, renowned historical scenic spots, city-exclusive cafes, popular shopping districts, and top-tier hotels in Hangzhou…
If you thoroughly explore each point, you can not only experience the authentic Hangzhou flavor but also discover new delights.
01. Tingwan Qishe (One Park)
This is our first stop and a popular gathering place for tourists.
Tingwan Qishe is the ninth of the Eighteen Scenes of West Lake in the Qing Dynasty. At that time, the area around the pavilion was filled with blooming flowers and willows, and the sound of bows and arrows could be heard daily. However, the nearby fish and birds were not afraid, hence the name “Tingwan Qishe.”
Although it is not listed among the Ten Scenes of West Lake today, its bustling atmosphere is unparalleled.
The first stop was still very exciting. We all chose seats by the window and found that the windows were very close to the water, so we reminded everyone to be cautious when taking photos or using their phones by the window.
Phones that fall into West Lake are hard to retrieve.
**Nanshan Road**
Next to the First Park Station is Nanshan Road, which is lined with many historical buildings that are both beautiful and rich in stories, such as the Yellow Building, Nanshan Bookstore, and the former residence of Mao Yisheng…
Image from: norah910910
Also, be sure to see Nanshan Road after 7 PM when the lights are on. Driving through it or walking here, you can experience a magical urban forest atmosphere.
**Hangzhou Restaurant**
Nearby is also the Hangzhou Restaurant, where a local classmate first took us to eat during our university days, and we immediately wanted to come back. Indeed, we became regular customers later on.
Additionally, a local colleague mentioned: “The Southern Bun shop next to Hangzhou Restaurant is a childhood memory for me. You could buy a huge bun for just two yuan and fifty cents.”
When we passed by on a weekday today, we originally wanted to join the crowd, but were deterred by the long line.
The local colleague also said that when they were kids, the three-item set they bought on Yan’an Road was: Southern Bun + Caizhi Zhai + Xiaolv Song, which was a true taste of old Hangzhou.
However, Xiaolv Song has now moved away from Yan’an Road.
**02. Hubin Sunny Rain (Fifth Park)**
Getting off at this station, you can walk a bit to reach the busiest commercial area by the West Lake, where you can stay for a long time.
**Starbucks at Shihanshe**
This Starbucks has been passed by many times. Its excellent location and the addition of a historical building make it a unique presence by the lake.
Potato discovered an excellent view of West Lake here, on the second-floor terrace. While sipping coffee, you can take in the scenery of West Lake.
On a weekday, this prime spot was surprisingly still available.
**Fifth Park**
Fifth Park is a small circular plaza with steps around it for people to sit on. In the center of the park stands a statue of the Volunteers, erected to commemorate the War to Resist U.S. Aggression and Aid Korea.
Many grandparents are here soaking up the sun and daydreaming. They don’t look at their phones; they just sit quietly or chat with each other.
**Huping Pedestrian Street**
The most bustling commercial area by West Lake—Huping Pedestrian Street—is also nearby. There are countless things to eat, play, and shop for here.
Next to it are the Apple Store and MUJI’s global flagship store. Every time I pass by the Apple Store, it’s bustling with people. Every time I come here, it feels like I’m in the city!
During holidays, Yan’an Road can see scenes comparable to crossing the Shibuya intersection in Tokyo.
Recently, the ginkgo and plane trees have turned yellow, and the sky is so blue it seems unreal. It’s beautiful no matter how you look at it.
**03. Broken Bridge with Snow (Youth Center)**
**Youth Center—Retro Amusement Park**
The amusement park’s facilities are almost identical to those of childhood, with vibrant and energetic colors. There are classic rides like the pirate ship and Ferris wheel, as well as a bunch of “spinning” devices.
The price for each ride is between 3-5 yuan. Two people can recharge 50 yuan and happily spend an afternoon here. The air is filled with the laughter of children. If you had come a few days earlier, you might have smelled the osmanthus flowers.
This retro scene is perfect for portrait photography or wedding photos. A local colleague said: Feeding pigeons here is a childhood memory.
**Broken Bridge**
Visiting the Broken Bridge at this time avoids the crowds. Walking on the bridge and looking around, you’ll be captivated by the surrounding lake and autumn scenery.
**Beishan Road**
Among the best places in Hangzhou to enjoy autumn, Beishan Road must be named. It is lined with French plane trees and features some modern buildings and the former residences of famous people.
**Fengqi Road**
This station is within a 10-minute walk to Fengqi Road. If you want to eat and drink, there are too many options on Fengqi Road. The food scene is not only competitive in malls but also in the alleys along the street.
Nearby is Haier Lane, which hides many great independent coffee shops and boutique bakeries.
**Kerry Center**
Kerry Center should rank among the top 5 shopping malls in Hangzhou. Christmas is coming soon, and every year Kerry Center’s Christmas tree is the largest and most worth seeing in Hangzhou.
04. Autumn Moon over the Calm Lake (Zhongshan Park)
Autumn Moon over the Calm Lake is located on a small peninsula called “Solitary Hill” by the West Lake. It is situated to the west of Bai Causeway, backed by Solitary Hill and facing the outer lake.
The lakeside of Solitary Hill Road is beautifully serene, offering an unobstructed view with fewer tourists. There are plenty of empty benches by the lake, and on a good day, sitting here to enjoy the vast expanse of the lake is quite pleasant.
To reach this small peninsula, one must pass by the Broken Bridge. Don’t underestimate this little peninsula; it offers a lot to explore, and let me elaborate on that.
Zhejiang Provincial Museum (Gushan Branch)
The collections of the Zhejiang Provincial Museum have been nominated multiple times on the show “National Treasures.” The museum’s prime location by the lake is also quite rare.
Currently, there is a special archaeological exhibition on the Sanxingdui and Jinsha sites, with a ticket price of 50 yuan, which is not expensive. The closing time has been extended from the usual 17:00 to 20:00, allowing for “night visits to the art gallery” in Hangzhou, where one can engage in a dialogue with the ancient Shu civilization.
Additionally, I also enjoy the museum’s permanent free exhibitions. Seeing the utensils used by people during the Liangzhu period, I can imagine their daily lives, and the pottery jars bring those daily routines from thousands of years ago back to the present.
In my impression, the jade cong of the Neolithic Liangzhu period was greatly praised on the “National Treasures” program.
Zhongshan Park
Many cities have a park named “Zhongshan Park,” and the one in Hangzhou has its own story. It is well-located, built by the lake, and was once part of the Qing Dynasty’s imperial garden and temporary palace. It was later renamed to commemorate Sun Yat-sen.
Next to the park is the popular Louwailou restaurant and a rowing boat dock.
Walking into the park, one is captivated by the alternating shades of green and yellow. The foreground pine trees are still lush, while the ancient trees inside are already golden and dazzling. Directly ahead, you can see a large rock with the words “Solitary Hill” inscribed on it.
Moreover, I also like the park’s entrance archway, which frames a beautiful view of the West Lake. The plaque on the archway reads “Guang Hua Fu Dan,” which was the archway of the Qing Dynasty’s Qianlong imperial palace and has no relation to Fudan University.
We watched a magnificent sunset at Guang Hua Fu Dan, standing quietly for a while, all of us silently gazing at the golden fragments reflected on the water’s surface.
Xiling Seal Engravers’ Society
The Xiling Seal Engravers’ Society was originally an ancient association, founded during the Qing Guangxu period, dedicated to the study of seal engraving, calligraphy, and painting.
Today, it functions like a seal museum, with beautiful courtyard landscapes and occasional small exhibitions about seals.
However, the Xiling Seal Engravers’ Society is currently under renovation and cannot be visited. Remember to check its opening status before planning a visit.
Lanxin Public Toilet
At Pinghu Qiuyue, there is a restroom worth visiting. The entrance, framed by a circular arch, showcases a picturesque view of a welcoming pine tree, making it aesthetically pleasing.
The interior design and cleanliness completelymy perception of public restrooms. The sink faucets are actually Dyson’s integrated washing and drying machines, making the experience feel like using a five-star hotel’s bathroom.
05. Flower Blooming, Moon Full (Hangfan)
Hangzhou Hotel
As soon as you disembark, you’ll see the red building directly opposite—the Shangri-La Hangzhou. Additionally, this is a hotel with a rich history (specific details cannot be disclosed, but you can search online for more information).
Hangzhou locals refer to it as Hangfan, and it is also the first Shangri-La in Mainland China.
Wu Song’s Tomb
The Wu Song who fought the tiger in the novel is a fictional character, but the story’s Wu Song is actually based on a highly skilled street performer from Hangzhou during the late Northern Song Dynasty, who eventually rose to become a high-ranking official.
Su Xiaoxiao’s Tomb
I learned about Su Xiaoxiao because my high school desk mate was very fond of her. While visiting Su Xiaoxiao’s tombstone, an elderly man nearby passionately shared her story with me, making him feel like a storyteller hidden among the common folk.
What left the deepest impression was the comparison the old man made between Su Xiaoxiao and Li Qingzhao. Both were highly renowned talents in history, but their funeral treatments were vastly different.
Su Xiaoxiao’s tomb is situated in a prime location by West Lake, sheltered by a pavilion, which the old man described as a high-status treatment.
Potato mentioned that the section of West Lake near Su Xiaoxiao’s Tomb and the Shangri-La is his favorite. It’s less crowded, with beautiful scenery, and the various small bridges along the way offer excellent views.
Huang Binhong Statue
Near the Flower Blooming, Moon Full pier, the statue of Huang Binhong is also very prominent. He was a modern master of traditional Chinese painting. The day we visited, the weather was perfect, with sunlight filtering through the leaves onto the statue, which depicted Huang Binhong squinting into the distance while holding a paintbrush.
A line from the nearby left a deep impression: “The master was both virtuous and talented, and his bronze statue stands by West Lake, to be eternally united with the landscape.”
06. Wind in the Lotus at Quyuan (Guo Zhuang)
Guo Zhuang
We all agreed that the Guo Zhuang attraction was well worth the visit. For just 10 yuan, you can experience a classical garden where every step reveals a new scene.
It is also known as the Fen Yang Villa, built during the Qing Dynasty and sold several times, eventually ending up in the hands of the Fen Yang Guo family.
The circular frames encircle the West Lake, while rectangular and fan-shaped frames capture the pavilions and terraces in the garden, with every corner offering a panoramic view.
Walking towards the lakeside, you arrive at the Guo Zhuang Tea House, where the lake view reaches your eyes through various shapes in the walls, making it even more captivating.
**Guo Zhuang Tea House**
The scenery here is so beautiful that you won’t want to leave. Before you are withered lotus leaves, an unobstructed view of the West Lake, and overhead, shady green trees.
The tea here is reasonably priced, with the cheapest option at 68 yuan per person. On weekdays, you might even have the place to yourself for an afternoon, briefly enjoying a private lakeside experience.
There’s also a tea spot in the central pavilion of Guo Zhuang, surrounded by a pond and buildings, starting at 88 yuan, which is a great deal.
**LAKE BELL Lan Feng Ling**
The English name of Lan Feng Ling made me think it was a restaurant opened by Lina Bell’s sister, as LINA BELL and LAKE BELL sound like twin names.
The restaurant is located within the Qu Yuan Feng He scenic area, just 10 meters from the West Lake. It has been personally tested by foodie Xin Xin and is highly recommended for a romantic date.
**07. Mao Xiang Shui Qing (Du Jin Sheng’s Former Residence)**
**Mao Jia Bu**
The boat docks at Mao Jia Bu, and my favorite water route is from Qu Yuan Feng He to Mao Jia Bu, where I spent 8 yuan for a long boat ride.
It definitely deserves the title of “Hidden Corner of the West Lake.” Here, there are wooden boardwalks, ancient bridges, and shaded paths, each angle offering a beautiful view.
This pavilion is a landmark of Mao Jia Bu, quietly standing by the ancient bridge.
What I found fascinating was a group ofsetting up camping gear in the pavilion, having a picnic, and chatting, a big clash of retro and modern (if you do this, remember to take your trash with you).
**08. Flower Harbor Viewing Fish**
**Hua Gang Park**
As soon as you disembark, you arrive at the Flower Harbor Viewing Fish attraction, where many people crowd on the stone bridge to watch the colorful koi in the water.
The greenery in Hua Gang Park must be well-maintained with significant investment. I haven’t seen such vibrant lawns in a long time; they look like soft carpets, inviting you to roll around, though they are fenced off.
**Three Pools Mirroring the Moon**
On the water route from Huagang Guan Yu to the next stop, you can see this big internet-famous stone.
The Three Pools Mirroring the Moon is a symbol that strongly represents Hangzhou, having successfully made its debut on the 1 yuan banknote. We saw the iron railing made in the shape of the Three Pools Mirroring the Moon by the roadside, casting a shadow in the sunlight, which is very Hangzhou.
**Jizhao Pavilion**
The most impressive part of the entire scenic area, in my opinion, is the Jizhao Pavilion. When we arrived, the afternoon sun’s rays illuminated one corner of the pavilion, echoing its name.
The view from the Jizhao Pavilion is as follows↓
**West Lake Gift – Carp Ice Cream**
At the West Lake Gift shop in Huagang Guan Yu, you can buy a carp-shaped ice cream and slowly enjoy it by the lakeside teeming with fish. Although ice cream is best paired with summer, I also enjoy the unique refreshing sensation of eating ice cream in winter.
The ice cream in the scenic area is quite expensive, priced at 15 yuan. I bought the mango pomelo flavor, and upon tasting, I found it to be quite authentic, with 70% of the price justified and 30% attributed to the scenic location.
**09. Farewell at the Long Bridge**
The Long Bridge is said to be the place where Zhu Yingtai and Liang Shanbo bid farewell. Despite its name, it is ridiculously short, and on the bridge and the lakeside boardwalk, there were 6 couples having their wedding photos taken.
In the following two days, I saw wedding photos taken by a classmate I hadn’t contacted in eight years on my social media feed…
**Jingci Temple**
Compared to the most visited Lingyin Temple and the most popular spot, Faxi Temple, Jingci Temple seems relatively less known, even though it faces the ever-popular Leifeng Pagoda, a site that has been a hotspot since ancient times.
It is claimed to be the second most famous temple in West Lake, on par with Lingyin Temple, known as the best of the north and south mountains.
A stone tablet stands in the pavilion at the temple entrance—the “Evening Bell at Nanping,” so coming here in the evening to listen to the temple’s melodious bell is considered a visit to one of the ten scenic spots of West Lake.
We arrived just a step too late, and the temple had just closed its gates. At that moment, I thought to myself: when the ginkgo leaves turn yellow again, I’ll come in the morning!
**Leifeng Pagoda**
Opposite Jingci Temple is the Leifeng Pagoda scenic area, with the Xizi Hotel nearby.
I’ve passed by Leifeng Pagoda many times, but this time, while sailing, I saw the most beautiful sunset at Leifeng. It was magical how the sunlight split into 10 small beams radiating out, like a giant star twinkling.
**10. Qian Ci Biao Zhong (Qianwang Temple)**
Qianwang Temple
The location of Qianwang Temple is also unique, with the West Lake right at its doorstep. It was built by later generations to commemorate the achievements of Qian Wang of the Wuyue Kingdom.
Recently, the ginkgo trees at Qianwang Temple have gradually turned yellow, making for stunning photos against the backdrop of red houses and red walls.
Prince Bay Park
Prince Bay Park is at its best in spring, where the tulips are in fierce competition, appearing in clusters, and each one is of high quality.
The place with the highest density of tulips I’ve ever seen is not a flower market, but here! In spring, the cherry blossoms here are also everyone’s favorite, often creating scenes of crowded cherry blossom trees.
China Academy of Art (Nanshan Campus)
The Nanshan Campus of the China Academy of Art is also located here. It’s best to visit during the graduation exhibition period, as the students’ works often leave a deep impression. The exhibition experience is no less impressive than major exhibitions.
🌊🚣🏻♀️🌊🚣🏻♀️🌊🚣🏻♀️
Although I’ve visited the West Lake many times, including frequent cycling around it just after graduation, I never tire of it. It has a charm that grows more beautiful with each visit.
The same scenery, under different weather conditions, offers different aesthetics; the same lake, viewed from different angles, reveals different surprises, making each visit fresh and new.
This newly opened “West Lake Circuit Tour Line” has allowed me to rediscover the West Lake. My favorite part is passing under the bridge by boat, where the light suddenly shifts from bright to dark and then back to bright, revealing the full view of the bridge as the scenery recedes, and seeing people on the shore watching those on the boat.
I’ve seen many parents bringing their children to play, and couples leaning together to watch the scenery outside the boat’s window. These scenes of people within the scenery are all incredibly heartwarming.
