There’s a place in Northeast China that holds a certain magic for me. Even in winter, when the temperature plummets to minus twenty degrees Celsius and my head feels like it’s about to fall off, the scenery makes me think, “It’s worth enduring the cold.”
Skiing, gazing at the Heavenly Lake, strolling through the wooden village, drifting in the snowy wilderness, and enjoying a hearty meal of stewed meat in a heated kang… Each experience is unforgettable.
In summer, this place transforms into a fairy tale world.
The roadsides are adorned with a riot of colorful wildflowers, blooming in clusters of beauty, indifferent to whether humans appreciate them or not. The mountains are covered in a vast expanse of lush green, seemingly endless, and one might even feel their eyesight improving after spending too much time here!
This time, I made a special trip to see the autumn here.
Even though the flight from Hangzhou requires a 4 a.m. wake-up call and the return flight lands at 1:30 a.m., it couldn’t dampen my enthusiasm for catching the plane.
Have my friends guessed it? I’m talking about Changbai Mountain!
Yesterday, colleagues Xianyu and Zhuqingting asked me if Changbai Mountain is fun. My response was: I could probably visit this place countless times…
Billed as a must-visit in one’s lifetime, Changbai Mountain is beautiful in every season, especially autumn. Autumn is the off-season for travel to Changbai Mountain, with fewer tourists, cheaper hotels, and crystal-clear air, where one can even look up and see a sky full of stars ✨
The starry sky captured on my phone ↑
How beautiful can autumn at Changbai Mountain be?
As the plane is about to land at Baishan Airport, one can already see a vast, breathtaking forest. The dominant green is dotted with colorful specks of red, yellow, gold…
The locals call this “Wuhua Mountain,” but in my view, it’s the “alternative period” of Changbai Mountain’s year.
Different places are now fiercely competing to showcase their autumn landscapes. If you want to see the first wave of golden leaves and red maples, you’ll need to head north, such as to the Greater Khingan Range, the Lesser Khingan Range, or Changbai Mountain.
A local girl told me: Although tourists love Changbai Mountain in winter the most, as a local, I personally rank Changbai Mountain in autumn as number one!
Beautiful things are always fleeting. The autumn at Changbai Mountain lasts only about 20 days, but whether it’s the crisp weather or the colorful mountains, they are all reasons to be happy.
There’s also good news: Changbai Mountain will soon have a high-speed rail connection, by the end of October this year.
After that, it will be possible to take a high-speed train to Changbai Mountain from Shanghai, Beijing, and Hangzhou daily, significantly shortening the travel time from major Northeast Chinese cities like Shenyang, Changchun, and Dalian.
It also means: you can now take a fast and comfortable “Snow Country Train” to Changbai Mountain in winter.
After the opening of the “Dunbai High-speed Railway,” a loop route will be formed: Changchun—Jilin—Dunhua City—Erdao Baihe Town (North Slope of Changbai Mountain)—Songjianghe Town (West Slope of Changbai Mountain)—Siping—Changchun. Changbai Mountain has officially become a sacred place within the 2-hour travel circle of Changchun.
Additionally, the “Shenbai High-speed Railway” began construction last year and, once completed, will allow travel from Shenyang to Changbai Mountain in just over an hour.
Moreover, in Changbai Mountain, you don’t need to deliberately seek out autumn.
Autumn colors surround you everywhere—on the roads, outside your room window, along the paths in the resort, and along the riverbanks of the drifting sites. There’s no escaping it.
Autumn colors on the road↓
Colorful mountains↓
Autumn colors by the river↓
Autumn colors in the forest path↓
Changbai Mountain is also very suitable for family outings with kids.
Firstly, it offers close contact with nature; Changbai Mountain is like a large-scale immersive “Natural Museum.” You can also see various animals. Taxi drivers say that sometimes while driving, small animals might suddenly appear on the road.
Secondly, the hotel facilities are very mature. The Wanda and Luneng resorts allow you to spend two days and two nights with your kids without needing to go outside.
The autumn scenery in the Wanda Resort alone looks like scenes from a fairy tale town.
For example, taking the cable car in the resort allows you to absorb the vast autumn colors from above.
Taking the Zhengxi Slide Shuttle Bus in the resort will take you through a path with exceptionally rich autumn colors.
With the recent “double reduction” policy, children’s holidays should no longer be overwhelmed by homework. If inter-provincial travel is allowed, it’s time to take action.
Affected by the pandemic, the prices for this snow season should not be very high, and there is a new hotel opening in the Wanda Resort.
In today’s article, let’s first explore Changbai Mountain and the surrounding areas that are worth visiting, and let’s also immerse ourselves in the vast autumn scenery.
A sacred mountain that one must visit in their lifetime
How to enjoy Changbai Mountain?
Visiting Changbai Mountain, climbing to see Heaven Lake is definitely a must-do. Regarding the trip up Changbai Mountain, I have already covered it in detail in my previous article.
**A Summer to Remember at Changbai Mountain**
Here are the key points distilled:
Changbai Mountain has four slopes accessible: East, South, West, and North. The East Slope is in North Korea, while the others are within China.
The most popular are the West and North Slopes. I have climbed both, and they offer distinctly different experiences.
I’ve created a mind map for the different ways to explore the East, West, South, and North Slopes of Changbai Mountain. Generally, the fun factor can be ranked as follows for the slopes within China: North Slope > West Slope > South Slope.
If time permits, I recommend visiting both the North and West Slopes. They offer different routes up the mountain, varying perspectives of Heaven Lake, and vastly different scenic spots along the way.
**Changbai Mountain North Slope**
The North Slope allows for a leisurely ascent. Upon entering the scenic area, you first take a shuttle bus to the mid-mountain level, where you can hire a jeep to reach the summit.
On the descent, in winter, you can ride a snowmobile, which is quite an experience, though it comes at a high cost—just a few minutes can cost 50 yuan.
The North Slope offers a rich array of attractions. After seeing Heaven Lake, you can visit the waterfall, enjoy some eggs cooked in the hot springs… A day can be filled with activities.
Compared to the West Slope, the view of Heaven Lake from the North Slope is partially obstructed.
However, I don’t see this as a drawback. It allows for a more rugged view of the peaks, especially in winter, when the beauty of the North Slope’s summit is something I will remember forever.
**Changbai Mountain West Slope**
To see Heaven Lake from the West Slope, you must conquer 1,442 steps. If we consider 20 steps per floor, that’s equivalent to climbing a 70-story building.
The mountain here is a green natural carpet in summer and a colorful one in winter, making you want to roll around on the spot.
There are ways to avoid the strenuous climb, such as hiring porters who can carry you up the mountain, but this is expensive: the cost for half the steps ranges between 300-500 yuan.
The climb is quite exhausting, but the occasional glance back reveals expansive meadows and winding roads, which can soothe both the eyes and the soul. There are plenty of rest stops along the way, so you can take it slow or push forward with determination.
If you are staying at Wanda or Luneng Resort, the West Slope is the closest. The resort hotels offer free shuttle buses to the West Slope attractions every day.
**Changbai Mountain South Slope**
The South Slope, due to its more fragile ecological environment, is only open for five months a year, with only 1000 tickets sold daily.
The development here is much lighter than that of the West and North Slopes, but because it is less crowded, the ecology is more beautiful, making it highly worthwhile to visit.
A reminder: While Tianchi (Heavenly Lake) is indeed very important, it is not the sole purpose of the visit.
Seeing Tianchi can be quite a matter of luck. Some people have seen it every time they visit Changbai Mountain five times, while others have climbed to the summit multiple times without ever catching a glimpse of it.
Even if it is sunny at the foot of the mountain, the top might be shrouded in clouds. If it gets cold and starts raining, not everyone can withstand it. Last summer, even with a lambswool jacket, I was shivering on the mountain.
Embrace the mindset of appreciating the beautiful nature, and don’t be too concerned about the outcome. The attractions along the way to Tianchi are all worth experiencing.
**Tips for Visiting Changbai Mountain:**
1. Pay close attention to the weather. The chances of missing out on clear views are higher on rainy days. However, it’s not impossible for the clouds to clear and reveal Tianchi again.
2. Prepare winter clothing in advance. Even in summer, the temperature at the top of Changbai Mountain is equivalent to winter.
Summer clothing recommendation: Outdoor > Lightweight waterproof and snow-resistant down jacket > Other thick jackets
Winter clothing recommendation: Windproof and waterproof thick/down jacket + Scarf + Hat + Waterproof and snow-resistant gloves + Windproof goggles (or sunglasses, as the snow reflects sunlight very brightly)
3. Purchase tickets 1-2 days in advance through the mini program, which is very convenient.
Tickets for attractions around Changbai Mountain can also be bought through the mini program.
Today, I will focus on what else around Changbai Mountain is worth visiting and what delicious food is worth trying, besides Tianchi.
Typically, a trip to Changbai Mountain is planned for 4-6 days. My personal suggestion is: 1-2 days at the resort, 1-2 days on Changbai Mountain, and 1-2 days for sightseeing around the area, which will make for a quite enriching experience.
**Lushui River Hunting Ground**
📍Fusong County, Baishan City, Jilin Province
💰￥70/person (students half price), discounted price of 50 on reviews
Ticket + Bi Quan River Rafting Ticket 268, discounted price of 157 on reviews
About an hour and 20 minutes’ drive from Wanda Resort, there is a Lushui River Hunting Ground Scenic Area. The most exciting activity in the entire scenic area is undoubtedly the Bi Quan River rafting.
The Changbai Mountain base of Nongfu Spring is located in the Lushui River Hunting Ground. While rafting, you can reach out and touch the icy cold river water, which maintains a constant temperature of 6-8℃ all year round. Even when the outdoor temperature drops to -30℃, the water here does not freeze.
The first time I went rafting in the fall, the entire journey felt incredibly therapeutic. The place is extremely, extremely primitive, and my heart was filled with exclamation marks as I transitioned from the concrete jungle to the real forest.
The entire forest was super quiet throughout the journey. If you didn’t speak, all you could hear was the sound of the river flowing, the rustling of leaves in the wind, your own breathing, and the rustling sounds left by squirrels 🐿 as they darted through the woods…
Being there, I didn’t want to make a sound, just to listen to nature quietly narrating its story.
The scene of leaves spinning in the air for several turns before finally landing on the water’s surface was exactly the moment of living in the present as described in “Soul.”
The hunting ground scenic area itself is also highly entertaining. When I visited, I happened to encounter the outdoor sports meeting here. Representatives from various teams held their unit signs, and there was a group of seemingly professional cyclists, making the scene quite exciting.
At first, I thought they were just cycling around the scenic area, but it turned out to be a triathlon. While rafting, I saw the contestants running through the forest, and finally, at the lakeside, I saw them passionately paddling kayaks—so impressive!
Next to Bi Quan Lake, there is a pond filled with cold-water fish—rainbow trout. These fish, absorbing the essence of heaven and earth, reminded me of the characters Bo Ben Er Ba and Ba Bo Er Ben from “Journey to the West.”
As tourists were reading the sign about rainbow trout, a local worker at the hunting ground said: “Out of the entire sign, I only saw four words: tender and delicious 🤤”
Crossing the wooden boardwalk by Bi Quan Lake, there is a large birch forest called “Bi Hua Garden.” Walking through the entire forest, all I could think of was Pu Shu’s song “Birch Forest.” The air was filled with the scent of trees, and I couldn’t help but take deep breaths of fresh air.
Some maple trees intertwine with birch trees, a phenomenon locals call “Maple-Birch Romance.”
In winter, there are only two colors here: white and blue. If you view this birch forest from the lakeside, it is even more breathtaking.
There is also a zoo within the scenic area, where cute animals like goats, sika deer, and alpacas roam freely.
The animals here are not afraid of humans at all; they will approach people on their own and even follow them around. However, alpacas can be a bit temperamental, so be careful of being spat on.
Next to the zoo is a small forest called “Mu Yang Garden,” with wooden boardwalks for strolling. The air is super fresh, and locals say the negative oxygen ions in the air of Changbai Mountain are dozens of times higher than in cities.
After living here for a long time and then going to a big city, even breathing can feel uncomfortable.
There are ultra-long swings hanging from the trees inside, and while swinging, you feel the forest spinning around you.
There is also a beautiful treehouse in the forest, where we can ascend to the top by following wooden stairs.
At the top of the treehouse, there is a smaller treehouse, but the room is empty. It would be a comfortable experience to place a small table for people to sit down and enjoy tea and rest.
There are many small wooden cabins available for accommodation within the scenic area, but the prices are not at all reasonable. It is recommended to just take a look.
**Magic Realm**
📍Erdao Baihe Town, Antu County, Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture, Changbai Mountain Magic Realm Scenic Area
💰￥180/person (rafting), ￥69 (scenic area ticket)
When passing by the Magic Realm on the way to the northern slope of Changbai Mountain, I was captivated by the beauty of the winter frost fog here.
Rafting is available year-round in the Magic Realm, but the most spectacular time is in winter. As you float in the boat, mist rises from the water surface, and trees on both sides are covered with frost fog, creating a magical, otherworldly feeling.
However, the autumn in the Magic Realm is also quite nice. In addition to rafting, a leisurely stroll through the scenic area is very pleasant.
There are also wooden boardwalks that lead you step by step into the small forest, where you will see various fallen trees, some even uprooted.
In Changbai Mountain, it is illegal to remove these fallen trees, so they are generally left to lie down or simply moved to ensure they do not obstruct human passage.
What’s even funnier is that the scenic area has erected a sign next to the fallen trees that says “Trees Attract Wind,” as if hinting at real-life events.
There is also a large hole under a tree, with a sign that says “Bear Cave,” and the gaze of the black bear statue is quite eerie…
Walking through the Magic Realm, one truly feels that this place exists in a “boundary” separate from the real world. What’s humorous is that the scenic area has also built a gate, with Tibetan Buddhist prayer wheels on the side.
The most beloved spot in the Magic Realm scenic area is the “Seven Star Spring,” where seven springs gush forth in a small river, and the river is filled with vibrant green aquatic plants, which are quite striking.
**Ice Water Spring**
📍Southeast of the Changbai Mountain North Scenic Area entrance
💰￥95 (combined ticket for Floating Stone Forest and Ice Water Spring)
I absolutely adore this scenic area; it gave me an experience of being a little deity.
The Ice Water Spring is very close to the northern slope of Changbai Mountain. Upon arriving at the scenic area, following the wooden boardwalk down will lead you to the first spring at the foot of Changbai Mountain.
Along the way, we passed by several smaller springs, and I couldn’t resist scooping up a handful of the cool, sweet water to drink. It was a refreshing and heavenly experience that one can’t find in the city.
Next to the First Spring of Changbai Mountain, there are several thatched huts where people can enjoy tea and hot pot all year round. In winter, there is heating to maintain the temperature inside the huts at around 20 degrees Celsius.
This reminded me of the poem: “When the evening comes and snow is on the way, would you like to share a cup of wine with me?”
The water used for brewing tea was drawn from the spring nearby. After drinking the dandelion root tea here, the tea was very sweet, and it made me feel warm from the inside out. The tea was also reasonably priced at 20 yuan per person, with unlimited refills.
This place was truly delightful. Listening to the white noise of nature, I thought it would also be comfortable to do some yoga nearby.
If you brought your own water cup, you could fill it with some mountain spring water, which tastes slightly sweet when drunk directly. If you didn’t bring a bottle, there were empty bottles for sale at 2.5 yuan each, which was quite affordable.
**Gorge Floating Stone Forest**
📍 Southeast side of the North Scenic Area entrance, Changbai Mountain
💰￥95 (Combined ticket for Floating Stone Forest and Ice Spring)
The Gorge Floating Stone Forest is only about three to four kilometers away from the Ice Spring Scenic Area, and the two areas are internally connected, allowing for a hike between them.
There is a sunken gorge here, and on the outer surface of the gorge, the protruding stone patterns resemble an elephant’s head.
At the entrance of the Elephant Trunk Mountain Scenic Area, there is also a pagoda-shaped building. Taking the elevator to the top floor, you can see a vast expanse of forest with yellow and green, and in the distance is Changbai Mountain.
Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t great when we visited. On a clear day, the mountain would be clearly visible, and after snowfall, you could see the “white head” of Changbai Mountain.
In addition to the above, there are also the Baixi Rafting and Jinjiang Wooden House Village that we previously wrote about, which are all places worth visiting in Changbai Mountain throughout the year.
**Small Towns at the Foot of Changbai Mountain**
**A Gathering Place for Delicious Food**
When it comes to finding good food, it’s essential to go to places where locals eat.
The most popular towns for food hunting are “Songjianghe Town” and “Erdao Baihe Town,” with the former being closer to the West Slope and the latter to the North Slope.
**Erdao Baihe Town**
Erdao Baihe Town has been rated as one of the 20 most beautiful towns in the world. The entire town is exceptionally clean, with no litter visible on the streets.
Image source:
The speed limit for driving throughout the entire town is 40. In other cities, driving at this speed would likely result in a constant stream of honking, but on the roads of Erdao Baihe, everyone maintains this speed harmoniously and without any sense of urgency. This place is truly a haven of slow living!
@wans99
In the eyes of tourists, Erdao Baihe Town is nothing short of a white moon.
The public facilities in the town are also very well-equipped, with rows of public bicycles and super clean public restrooms… it’s almost unbelievable that this is the infrastructure of a town.
Public venues related to Changbai Mountain are almost all located in Erdao Baihe Town. For example, the Changbai Mountain Natural Museum and the beautiful Meiren Pine Park, which is dotted with many art sculptures.
The proportion of the Korean population in the town used to be 20-30%, but now it has dropped to below 10%. The Korean cuisine here is really delicious, authentic, and cost-effective, with an average of seventy to eighty yuan per person being enough for a sumptuous meal.
Everyone loves to go to a soup restaurant called “Little Yellow Cow Korean Soup Restaurant,” where various beef dishes are cooked to perfection.
Whether it’s braised or stewed, the dishes here bring out the natural flavor of the beef to its fullest.
Another highlight here is the side dishes, with marinated squid, marinated beef tendon, and marinated radish all being delicious and even stealing the spotlight from the main dishes.
After eating, I even went to the side dish counter to ask if they could be purchased online, and found out that they could!
Soup rice is the golden here, with extremely fresh beef soup containing many tender beef pieces. The locals usually pour rice directly into the stone pot and eat it with the soup.
Rice wine is also a standout, and without exaggeration, I had the best rice wine of my life here, feeling like it was brewed with mountain spring water.
Songjianghe Town
The food in Songjianghe Town was already covered in the previous article. To summarize, there are four main categories to try:
The first category is grilled meat, recommended is Xingchen Rock Grilled Meat, where the meat is heated with firewood and you can either grill it yourself or ask the staff to help. The Northeastern-style grilling method is meat with sauerkraut, which is completely non-greasy.
Another dish to try is grilled hazelnuts, which have a strong mushroom flavor with a slight bitterness, and almost every table orders a plate of yellow elm mushrooms.
The second category is stewed dishes, almost all of which are delicious.
Here, too, the dishes are cooked with firewood, and corn cakes are stuck to the sides of the iron pot, becoming incredibly fragrant when cooked.
The third category is Northeastern home-style dishes, recommended is Changyuan Village Restaurant.
Northeast Chinese cuisine portions are truly enormous. Last time, we four southerners ordered six dishes, and the waiter came over to say: “Don’t order more, you won’t be able to finish it all!”
When the dishes were brought out, I was stunned. Each dish’s portion was about 2-3 times the size of what you’d get in Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Shanghai!
The fourth category is Korean cuisine, recommended are Micun Mixed Rice and Yinghua Korean Fast Food.
After asking a local girl from Songjianghe Town, she also recommended Alang Barbecue to me.
Additionally, if you want to buy local specialties, the prices in the town are much more favorable than in the resort area. For example, in summer, you can buy a pound of large blueberries for just 12 yuan. Ginseng is also not expensive; the local girl said that for personal consumption, a ginseng around 50 yuan per piece is sufficient.
Where to stay in Changbai Mountain?
If you’re a hotel enthusiast or traveling with kids, I recommend staying at the “Wanda Resort” and “Luneng Resort” near the western slope of Changbai Mountain.
