Friends, I finished writing this guide to Zunyi amidst the 40°C heat in Beijing.
This year, Beijing has been unbearably hot, with several consecutive days over 40°C. My initial plan to go citywalking was thwarted by the heatwave, leaving me no choice but to find a café to write in while reminiscing about the coolness and chill of Guizhou.
▲ Photo taken from a café in Beijing
Last month, I went to Guizhou to escape the heat, traveling from Guiyang to Zunyi, and instantly fell in love with this laid-back little town of Zunyi. Today, I’ll share a guide to Zunyi, and later tonight on my secondary account, I’ll share its culinary delights.
Admittedly, Zunyi is not a traditional tourist city. When Zunyi is mentioned, besides the red memories of the Zunyi Conference and the world-renowned Moutai liquor, it’s hard to think of any famous attractions.
However, after visiting Zunyi, it has surpassed Guiyang, Anshun, Bijie, Qiannan, and other places I’ve been to, becoming my summer retreat and favorite new destination this year.
Last year’s “reverse travel” trend proved that people’s travel habits are evolving. Instead of crowded popular tourist spots, more interesting and lesser-known cities are gaining favor.
Personally, I also prefer “reverse travel.” Rather than navigating through the crowds in popular tourist spots and the loud broadcasts of tours, I enjoy wandering aimlessly in a novel and interesting city, which brings me much joy.
Last year, cities like Quanzhou and Liuzhou became instant hits. This year, I unexpectedly found the even more intriguing Zunyi.
This is a really chill mountain town where the city and the natural landscape blend beautifully. While strolling along the Xiangjiang River, the expansive green and refreshing breeze instantly soothed me.
On the walkways along the Xiangjiang River, people are leisurely crossing the river with a single pole, fishing casually, or enjoying early coffee and late-night drinks in refined riverside shops… it’s incredibly romantic.
Moreover, hidden within seemingly commercialized food streets are the beloved cuisine of locals, and the markets aren’t overrun by influencers… truly rare.
What many don’t know is that the counties below Zunyi are home to unique landscapes of Guizhou. I even spent a day visiting the “City of a Thousand Waterfalls,” Chishui, to see the largest waterfall in the Danxia landform area. Up close, it felt even more romantic than the Huangguoshu Waterfall.
Zunyi is cool, interesting, and filled with delicious food… so here, even time becomes adorable. This summer, I just want to stay here and never leave.
🌷🌱💐
Red Memories of Zunyi
Who could have thought it would be so comfortable?
The Site of the Zunyi Conference
The city of Zunyi carries a vast amount of red memories in its history. As a Chinese citizen, the importance of the Zunyi Conference and the red glow it radiates are always etched in our hearts.
On my first stop in Zunyi, I wasted no time and went straight to visit the Zunyi Conference Site.
Upon entering the gate, the first place to visit is the main building, a blend of Chinese and Western architectural styles. This building served as the conference room and the headquarters during the Zunyi Conference.
After exiting the main building and continuing forward, you reach the Zunyi Conference Memorial Hall. Here, you can learn in detail about the entire course of the Zunyi Conference and see various artifacts from that period.
The Zunyi Conference Memorial Hall is also a national first-class museum. Each artifact might represent the brief but remarkable life of a soldier.
After visiting the Zunyi Conference Site, you will find a Maotai Ice Cream flagship store right outside. If you can’t visit the Maotai Distillery while in Zunyi, at least try a Maotai ice cream.
Maotai Ice Cream costs ¥68 each, and you can enjoy it while resting in the store.
Zunyi Memorial Park
📍Location: 3-1-12, 13 Hongjun Street
Zunyi Memorial Park is very close to the Zunyi Conference Site. It is the oldest park in Zunyi and has a small amusement park where many children play.
The park itself doesn’t have anything particularly special; many locals come here for a stroll, making it more like a leisure park.
However, the riverside area of the park is lined with charming shops that serve coffee by day and alcohol by night, which makes it quite interesting.
I spent a long time at a camping-themed coffee shop called Qingmi Intimate. The decor was excellent, and it was very comfortable to sit there, enjoy a drink, and feel the river breeze. Moreover, it was a great place to take photos.
It was too hot that day, so I didn’t have coffee but ordered a yangmei (bayberry) iced drink, which tasted great.
Xiangjiang River
📍Location: 3-1-12, 13 Hongjun Street
Descending from Zunyi Memorial Park, you reach the Xiangjiang River. It was here that I completely fell in love with this small city.
Perhaps because all the popular tourist spots are crowded and heavily commercialized, I have somewhat lost the desire to explore. On the contrary, places imbued with a leisurely and lively atmosphere like this can capture my heart instantly.
Walking down from Zunyi Memorial Park to the Xiangjiang River feels like entering another world.
The green water of Xiangjiang and the surrounding trees are healing, with water birds occasionally flying by, adding a touch of liveliness to the picturesque scene.
Local residents by the river each engage in their own preferred activities. This chill lifestyle scene by the riverside has dissolved my anxiety into the evening breeze.
There are also many interesting shops by the river, including tea houses, craft breweries, coffee shops, barbecue joints, and light eateries, each one exuding more charm than the last.
In the evening, I specifically sought out a Bakery which sells coffee in the morning and alcohol in the evening, intending to empty my mind and idle away. Slowly sipping a cold drink, listening to the band’s low and mellow performance, with the cool evening breeze from the river—this is what makes life so pleasant and romantic.
During this visit to Zunyi, aside from seeking out delicious food, my favorite activity was strolling along the banks of the Xiang River. Here, even time seemed to become more endearing.
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Strolling through the market, savoring gourmet food…
Starting a chill day in Zunyi
Xiangshan Agricultural Market
📍Location: Red Army Street 3-1-12, 13 storefronts
As everyone knows, visiting the local market is typically a must-do when arriving in a city.
Prior to reaching Zunyi, I extensively searched for local markets and eventually set my sights on Xiangshan Agricultural Market.
Also known as Liu Jiawan Market, it is virtually devoid of tourists, frequented instead by locals buying groceries, making it very local and authentic.
The market also offers many distinctive vegetables from Guizhou, such as Zhe’ergen (Houttuynia cordata).
I visited after eating, but you might prefer to arrive earlier to enjoy the various delicacies available at the market. There are some old, well-regarded stalls, like Yizhong Fuji Red Oil Rice Noodles and Sanzhong Changwang Noodles, which local friends highly recommend.
Currently, it is the peak season for a variety of fruits to hit the market. The local specialties Yangmei (Chinese bayberry) and Honey-sweet plums are incredibly delicious; you might want to buy some to mail back home.
I love honey-sweet plums the most; their fragrance is overwhelming, and they taste sweet and delightful. Definitely worth trying.
Phoenix Mountain National Forest Park
📍Location: Red Army Street 3-1-12, 13 storefronts
Phoenix Mountain National Forest Park is located right in the city center, adjacent to the Xiang River, and it’s enormous.
It is a famous Red Army Martyrs Cemetery in Zunyi. When visiting Phoenix Mountain, pay respects to the martyrs at the cemetery first, and then proceed to hike the mountain.
The main peak of Phoenix Mountain in the park is the highest peak in Zunyi city. At the top, there is a Phoenix Tower from which you can view the entire panorama of Zunyi.
However, make sure to go early, as the Phoenix Tower closes at around 18:10. I initially planned to climb it later to catch the sunset, but due to a rain delay on my way, I unfortunately missed it.
If you don’t enter the Phoenix Tower, it is quite hard to get a full view of Zunyi because the trees obscure the view. The panoramic shot below was taken with a zoom lens and barely captures a bit of the scenery.
There is an elevator inside the Phoenix Tower, costing ¥6 per person, which is quite worth it.
Climbing the mountain takes a considerable amount of time, so be sure to schedule your time wisely.
Laosha Alley
📍Location: 3-1-12, 13 Hongjun Street
Initially, I thought Laosha Alley was too commercialized and was ready to give up on this food street. But after arriving in Zunyi, a taxi driver strongly recommended it as a spot even locals visit for delicious food, so I decided to go.
Lao Resident Sour Soup Hot Pot
I didn’t get to try sour soup hot pot in Guiyang, so I made it up this time in Zunyi.
This restaurant is hidden among residential buildings in Laosha Alley. Despite its secluded location, it is very popular.
It’s said that the soup base is made by the owner using tomatoes, and it indeed had a rich flavor with a moderate sourness. Whether for dipping meat slices or vegetables, it was delightful.
I also liked mixing the sour soup with rice, the unique flavor of Guizhou spices blending into a sweet and tangy taste that was very appetizing.
The restaurant offers set meals, and a set meal costing just a few dozen yuan is enough to fill two people, making it quite a bargain. However, the only downside is the lack of service.
Xiao Ernian Rice Noodles
This shop’s pork slice noodles were also recommended by locals. Amidst the many flashy signs in Laosha Alley, this one was not very noticeable, and I missed it the first time I walked by.
I ordered a serving of their signature pork slice noodles. The broth was exceptionally savory, the rice noodles had a nice chewy texture, and the pork slices were fresh. Adding a bit of the shop’s special red chili oil made it mouthwateringly fragrant.
Additionally, Zhong Tai’s “gua lu” and the Egg Wrap Glory in Laosha Alley are also worth trying.
By the way, there is a saying in Zunyi about food: even the mobile food stalls are very tasty, so don’t miss them if you come across any.
🌷🌱💐
The Chibi Grand Waterfall Rivals Huangguoshu Waterfall
A Must-Visit in Your Lifetime!
Friends, I highly recommend a visit to the Chishui Danxia Grand Waterfall—it’s truly worth it!
This waterfall is the second largest in China and the largest in the Danxia landform area. It is taller than the main waterfall of Huangguoshu, and during periods of abundant water flow, you can experience the spectacular and romantic sight of what seems like the Milky Way cascading from the heavens.
The Chishui Grand Waterfall can also be viewed up close. Although getting closer means getting drenched by the mist and spray from the waterfall, the awe-inspiring view is unbeatable.
I went alone, so I only took pictures of the waterfall. This place is actually perfect for portrait photography; standing on the large rock and taking a photo with the waterfall in the background gives a magical, fairy-tale feel.
In addition to the main attraction, the Chishui Grand Waterfall Scenic Area also features the Beauty Comb Waterfall, which is equally beautiful and usually less crowded—a must-see if you’re there.
By the way, you should definitely buy a sightseeing bus ticket for the scenic area to avoid a long walk. If you’re not up for the physical exertion, you can also purchase an elevator ticket for the return trip.
I was short on time, so I only visited the Chishui Grand Waterfall. However, if you’re planning a trip to Zunyi, consider spending 2-3 days exploring Chishui by car—the mountainous landscapes and natural scenery are breathtaking.
Here’s a suggested itinerary for Chishui:
Day 1: Chishui Grand Waterfall – Sidonggou – Bing’an Ancient Town.
Day 2: Foguangyan – Bamboo Sea – Cyathea Nature Reserve.
For accommodation, there’s a cave hotel called Jianglu, which is quite nice.
