At the invitation of the Bhutan Tourism Board, I visited Bhutan.
We typically do not participate in tourism board FAMs, as they are too exhausting. These FAMs usually involve changing hotels daily and having a packed itinerary during the day.
But I accepted Bhutan’s FAM without hesitation this time because it was Bhutan.
It isn’t easy to go to Bhutan. Bhutan does not have diplomatic relations with China, and Chinese travel agencies cannot sell Bhutan travel products; there is no independent travel in Bhutan—it must be a group tour (though the group can consist of just one person); and traveling to Bhutan is not cheap, with a minimum daily spend of 250 USD per person, and flights to Bhutan never have discounts.
The more mysterious a country is, the more it stirs longing.
I have wanted to visit Bhutan for a long time.
The first time I heard about Bhutan was in 2008 when Tony Leung and Carina Lau got married. Their wedding took place in Bhutan, and the hotel they chose was COMO Uma Paro.
There’s actually some gossip about it. Originally, their first choice seemed to be Amankora Paro. However, Amankora Paro has too few guest rooms (only 24), which couldn’t accommodate their large group of friends and family;
In addition, Amankora Paro was unable to convince those who had already booked rooms to cancel for Tony Leung and Carina Lau, so the deal didn’t go through.
It’s quite a pity.
This time, the itinerary arranged by the Bhutan Tourism Board was quite generous. Though five nights were scheduled at five different hotels, they included Aman, Six Senses, COMO, Bhutan Spirit Sanctuary (under SLH’s CAT7 category), and Le Meridien.
Aman, Six Senses, and COMO Uma… these places are absolutely a paradise for hotel enthusiasts.
Today, let’s first write about Aman in Bhutan.
As the saying goes, the best hotels in the world are Aman, the best Aman hotels are in Asia, and the best Aman in Asia is in Bhutan.
It’s not an exaggeration, it’s true.
Bhutan has an Aman, called Amankora.
Or it could be said that Bhutan has five Amans because Amankora pioneered the concept of scattering the same hotel into five different locations across Bhutan.
Here lies the only international airport in Paro, the capital of Bhutan, Thimphu, the spiritual heartland of Punakha, the most beautiful trekking destination in Gangtey, and the sacred site at the southern foothills of the Himalayas, Bumthang.
These five locations were built at different times, but all were designed by Aman’s designated architect, Kerry Hill.
By staying at the Amankora, one can deeply appreciate the beauty of Bhutan in the best possible way. Staying at each Aman location is akin to touring the entirety of Bhutan.
Amankora is distinct from the other 35 Aman hotels.
Amankora focuses on its main route, with each hotel in Paro, Thimphu, Punakha, Gangtey, and Bumthang serving as a jewel with unique qualities, stringing together to form a pearl necklace.
Does this sound familiar? I can responsibly say that Baima Dorji, the founder of Songtsam, took inspiration from Amankora during the establishment of Songtsam.
It’s not just Songtsam; even Six Senses’ five hotel locations in Bhutan are completely aligned with Aman.
Sharing good things isn’t a bad practice; Aman isn’t a stingy hotel network either.
Hence, the packages on Amankora’s official website are for 7-13 nights or 8-16 nights, usually costing over 100,000 yuan.
This time, I only stayed at Amankora Thimphu, and I feel that in my lifetime, I must complete the Amankora circuit in Bhutan.
This is my “must-stay” list.
Next, let me show you Amankora Thimphu.
Thimphu is the capital of Bhutan, and Amankora Thimphu is nestled in the pine-scented forests of the Motithang district. The location aligns with Aman’s penchant for seclusion.
The hotel resembles a traditional Bhutanese dzong and is relatively small yet charming. It includes 16 suites, a restaurant, a library, and a spa area.
Amankora Thimphu’s rooms are all suites.
Aman’s rooms don’t flaunt gold-plated walls or diamond-studded bathtubs; instead, they focus on simplicity and elegance, valuing comfort above all else.
It’s said that the rooms of the five Amankoras are quite similar; when designing, Kerry Hill intended for you not to frequently adapt to new environments and rooms.
Outside the rooms lies the forest.
Inside, there is a traditional Bhutanese iron stove, and Aman’s staff will burn pinecones in it, letting the scent of pine slowly fill the room.
The temperature in most parts of Bhutan is similar to Tibet, so blankets and hot water bottles are standard in the rooms at Amankora Thimphu.
The ice bucket contained Bhutanese local beer.
At Amankora, all three meals, afternoon tea, Happy Hour, and all beverages during your stay are included.
Since independent travel is not permitted in Bhutan, this package is not unique to Amankora; other five-star hotels offer similar inclusions.
It’s said that the dining area of Amankora Thimphu is one of the places in Bhutan where you’re most likely to see the King and Queen. They frequently dine at this restaurant.
The menu offers a wide variety of options, essentially a fusion of traditional Bhutanese cuisine and Western dining.
In Bhutanese cuisine, the noteworthy ingredients are chili and cheese.
Breakfast is also served at this restaurant.
There’s also Happy Hour and afternoon tea available.
I don’t know much about alcohol, but these drinks seem quite lavish. However, they are not all entirely free.
Dining at Amankora is not restricted to the hotel premises.
You can dine by the river, in the fields, or even in the forest. Of course, these experiences come at an additional cost.
Some traditional features of Bhutanese inns can also be found at Amankora Thimphu.
For example, during Happy Hour, you can watch various performances by individuals dressed in traditional Bhutanese attire while enjoying your drinks. It’s quite engaging.
Local artists occasionally perform in some of the hotel’s public areas as well.
When you check out, the hotel arranges for a high monk to bless you and see you off. The ceremony involves sprinkling holy water and tying a prayer string around your wrist. It’s a deeply ritualistic experience, reflecting Amankora’s attentive care for each guest.
Each Amankora lodge has a unique arrival and departure experience. The monk blessing ceremony is specific to Amankora Thimphu, while other Amankora lodges have their distinct rituals.
I am suddenly tempted to stay at the remaining four Amankora properties.
Let me also mention some of the other public areas at Amankora Thimphu.
Although the hotel isn’t large, it does have a library. Bhutan is a place that brings peace to your mind and body, and Amankora is no exception.
There’s also a yoga platform nestled in the forest.
There is also a boutique at Amankora.
Now, let’s talk about the service.
When I write about hotels, I like to use data. The staff-to-guestroom ratio at Amankora exceeds 5:1, meaning that each guestroom is attended by an average of 5 Amankora staff members, which is quite remarkable.
Check-in is completed in your room; whenever you leave your room and return, it is certain to be cleaned.
Here’s another example: because of the time difference (Bhutan is -2 hours behind China), I woke up at 4:30 AM at Amankora Thimphu to work in the restaurant, and the staff swiftly brought me tea and coffee.
First, they served capsule coffee, concerned that I might wait too long, and within 10 minutes they replaced it with freshly brewed hand-poured coffee. They were truly attentive.
Unfortunately, I only stayed one night at Amankora Thimphu.
Next, let’s talk about a few other Amankoras in Bhutan.
In Dzongkha, the word “Kora” means “pilgrimage circumambulation.” The five Amankora lodges in Paro (24 rooms), Thimphu (16 rooms), Punakha (8 rooms), Gangtey (8 rooms), and Bumthang (16 rooms) form a travel route through Bhutan.
You can choose 3 to 5 of these to create your own Bhutan travel itinerary.
We arranged a map showing the locations of the 5 Amankoras in Bhutan.
Amankora Paro
Paro is home to Bhutan’s only international airport and its most famous site, the Tiger’s Nest Monastery. Located near Balakha village in the picturesque Paro Valley, Amankora Paro is the largest Amankora in Bhutan with 24 rooms.
Amankora Punakha
This Amankora cannot be reached by car; you need to cross a suspension bridge over the Mo Chhu River. Amankora Punakha offers great views overlooking the entire valley.
Amankora Gangtey
Situated in a forested lodge in the Phobjikha Valley, this valley is one of Bhutan’s most important wildlife conservation areas, home to the black-necked crane.
Amankora Bumthang
This one is even more unique, located adjacent to the Wangdicholing Palace, the residence of Bhutan’s first and second kings. It’s the Amankora next to the royal palace.
Generally speaking, the Paro-Thimphu-Punakha route spans exactly 6 days and 5 nights.
If you have 7 days and 6 nights or 8 days and 7 nights, you can add Gangtey or Bumthang to your itinerary. The true Aman Junkies (a term for loyal Aman fans) embark on the 13-day or 16-day Aman journey through Bhutan.
Believe it or not, Aman really complements Bhutan. Ethereal, pure, transcendent, secluded… These qualities describe both Aman and Bhutan.
I hope to experience the Aman journey through Bhutan once in my lifetime. It would be my “must-stay” experience.
