The first trip of the new spring, I most want to hit this absolutely stunning West Coast self-drive route!
When it comes to the best destinations for spring break, Hainan absolutely tops my list. Almost every cold winter, I have a dream: wearing a floral shirt, sipping coconut water, and lying peacefully by the seaside. The pleasant temperature of around 20 degrees Celsius can automatically filter out many bad moods.
Moreover, I feel that people in tropical regions have an ancestral knowledge and experience in living a leisurely life. So whenever life feels too tough, I want to come here for a bit of relaxation.
Among the various cities in Hainan, Sanya is nearly synonymous with island vacations. The jelly-blue waters are quite outstanding when it comes to beautiful sea views in China.
Of course, Hainan Island isn’t just about Sanya. We usually divide it into the east line, the central line, and the west line, each having its unique attractions.
The east line of Hainan Island is the most popular self-drive route: Haikou—Wenchang—Qionghai—Wanning—Lingshui—Sanya. The scenery along the way is beautiful. We revisit these cities multiple times every year. My friend MoMo has driven this route before, and I’m sharing the guide here for everyone 👇
Exploring Hainan off the beaten track, check out the most beautiful coastal road on the east line.
The central line is home to the island’s ethnic minorities. There are no seas, but it offers lush virgin forests and indigenous lifestyles.
In comparison, the west line’s tourism development isn’t as advanced, which has allowed it to maintain a more pristine environment. Tranquil fishing villages and bustling fish ports remain common here.
There are no crowds of tourists or outrageous prices. You can stroll through fish ports to buy fresh seafood, eat pandan cake and Hainanese noodles in local markets, and carry a coconut to the shore to watch the sunset. This is the standard way of life on the west line of Hainan.
Additionally, Hainan Island’s policies are friendly to self-drivers. It’s the only province in China without toll stations on its highways. The routes are well-developed, and the roads are flat, so as long as you can drive in the city, you should be able to manage here.
Driving along one of China’s two lengthy west coasts (the other being the Taiwan Peninsula), from Haikou’s Yundong Library, Danzhou’s century-old fishing villages, and Changjiang’s Chess Bay to Dongfang’s Yulindong, you can witness romantic coastal sunsets as a daily ritual.
Let me outline the route for everyone, and then I’ll go into more details.
Hainan West Coast Island Self-Drive Route👇
Haikou (food hunting) — Chengmai (Meiting Meilang Sister Towers/Fushan Coffee Culture Town/Mangrove Wetland Park/Poliang Ancient Village) — Lingao (roast suckling pig/Ximen Market/seafood stalls/Lingao Point) — Danzhou Baima Well (Guangcun Silver Beach/Volcanic Geological Park/Dongpo Academy/Sea Flower Island/Thousand-Year-Old Salt Well/Baima Port/Well Spring Market) — Changjiang Chess Bay — Dongfang (Basu Fish Port/Changshun Market/Yulindong/Gate Port Village/Baicha Village)
🌊🚗🌊
Haikou City
Haikou and Sanya are the two major transportation hubs on Hainan Island. Many people use Haikou as a transit point for their Hainan trip. However, it is also a culturally rich island city. Speaking of sea views, Haikou doesn’t lose out either. Just the sunset through the coconut trees at Yundong Library has captivated me for a long time.
Haikou is also a culinary hub, where you can find nearly all the delicious food from across Hainan Island. So upon landing in Haikou, you can first dive into the arcades to seek out ZaoPo vinegar, spicy soup rice, and various noodle dishes to acclimate your taste buds before officially starting your Hainan journey.
We’ve written comprehensive food guides for Haikou in three parts. Follow our guides, and you basically can’t go wrong with your dining experiences.
If anyone thinks the only good food on Hainan Island is Northeastern cuisine, come out here with me!
With an average of less than 50 per meal, I experienced immense happiness through the food in Haikou.
48 Hours in Haikou: In this hidden “morning tea paradise,” my only worry was being too full.
Eating seafood in Haikou is much more reliable than in Sanya. Previously, Guagua ate a seafood feast for just over 100 per person at Banqiao Seafood Market in Haikou, sampling representative dishes like abalone, mantis shrimp, scallops, grouper, eel, and sea urchin.👇
For an average of only a bit over 100, I ate seafood in Haikou until I could barely stand.
🌊🚗🌊
Chengmai
Heading westward from Haikou, the first stop is the slow city of Chengmai, most notable to me for its locally produced coffee.
Among Hainan Island’s local coffees, Fushan Coffee and Xinglong Coffee are the most famous. Right next to the vegetable market in Haikou, I saw many bags of coffee powder being sold casually and unpretentiously, clearly the staple coffee of the locals.
Fushan Coffee, found in Chengmai, is one of those. Chengmai is the earliest place on Hainan Island to cultivate coffee, dating back more than half a century, making it arguably the area with the richest coffee culture on the island.
Photo by Happy Xiaomie
To experience Fushan Coffee, head to the Fushan Coffee Cultural Town. The coffee museum there gives a detailed history. Additionally, there are numerous coffee shops clustered together, so you can’t go wrong with a random choice. Fushan Coffee is rich and thick in flavor, and you can customize the sweetness to your taste.
Photo by Big Demon Wang
For those who love cultural travel, the Meilang Twin Towers in Chengmai are a must-see. These ancient towers built in the Yuan Dynasty are one of the few nationally protected monuments in Hainan. Nestled among blue skies, white clouds, and coconut forests, they have a vibe akin to Cambodia’s Angkor Wat.
Baoliang Ancient Village in Fushan has a history of over 300 years and is now a popular spot for trips around Haikou. Although it’s an ancient village, it has attracted a group of imaginative young people, introducing fresh new activities such as coffeehouses, restaurants, guesthouses, and various experience events. It’s perfect for spending a leisurely half-day.
Photo by Little Island Hu Hu
As for natural scenery, you can visit the Mangrove Wetland Park, a 220-acre natural mangrove area rich in greenery that instantly feels refreshing. I would call it the Chengmai version of “The Green Forest.”
The park isn’t very large; 1-2 hours is enough to explore. Also, it’s the only place in Hainan with flamingos and alpacas.
Play Recommendations: Fushan Coffee Cultural Town / Meilang Twin Towers / Baoliang Ancient Village / Mangrove Wetland Park
Hotel Recommendations: R&F Hilton (Mangrove Wetland Park), Chengmai Melangwan Xiangmian Hotel, Hainan Xikang Yunse Wellness Resort Hotel
🌊🚗🌊
Lingao
Lingao is a city with a high sense of happiness. Locals start their day with roast suckling pig, seafood costs 2 yuan per jin, and 5 yuan is enough for a large coconut. Even just planning a day of sightseeing and eating provides a rich itinerary.
Food enthusiasts must have been tempted to tears by the roast suckling pig in various cities of Hainan. So, when you find yourself in its place of origin, you simply have to check out the street dedicated to roast suckling pig.
Laiyun Roast Pig, featured on “Breakfast in China,” still enjoys booming business. To enjoy roast suckling pig, you must come early. A serving of roast suckling pig, a plate of pickled vegetables, a bowl of steamed suckling pig soup, and a small bowl of white rice make for a delicious breakfast that locals enjoy.
Additionally, any shop on this street that attracts a crowd is worth a visit. I also tried Taoyuan Roast Pig, which was very reliable.
One of the most unbelievable aspects of Lingao is its seafood street food for afternoon tea. Bowls upon bowls of cooked seafood are sold on the roadside at incredibly fair prices, costing only 10-20 yuan per jin. I’ve never seen anything like this in other Hainan cities.
Moreover, there are well-established shops like Ruidong Rice Noodles, Ayan Coconut, Chen’s Chicken Poop Vine, and the long-standing New World Coconut Flavored Qingbuliang, all of which are dependable.
In the evening, you can head to Lingao Corner for a sunset over the fishing village, watching the bright sun slowly set in the distance, leaving behind a romantic sky full of evening clouds.
Additionally, the lighthouse at Lingao Corner is worth noting. Not only is it beautiful, but it is also the oldest lighthouse in Hainan and one of the world’s hundred heritage lighthouses. For more tips on Lingao, check out this article below👇
Breakfast Roast Suckling Pig, Seafood Sold by the Bowl? This island city is unbelievably comfortable!
Play recommendations: Lingao Roast Suckling Pig/Seafood Street Food/Ximen Agricultural Market/Lingao Corner
Hotel recommendations: Vienna, Xiyue, Hainan Country Garden Golden Beach Hot Spring Hotel
🌊🚗🌊
Danzhou
Leaving Lingao and moving forward, you will enter the territory of Danzhou. If you’re on an island tour, the city center of Danzhou is actually some distance from the coast. The truly coastal area is Baima Well Town under its jurisdiction.
Haikou Flower Island in Baima Well Town is the largest artificial island in China, built with an investment of 160 billion yuan, and was once a highly controversial project. Although it is a fully commercial development, various activities are meticulously arranged, offering a different kind of relaxing happiness.
Many people visit specifically to see the ancient salt well, whose techniques have been listed as intangible cultural heritage, showcasing the wisdom of coastal families. Through the crisscrossing stone troughs, we can see the oldest salt-making techniques.
Next to the salt well is Salt-baked Chicken Street, with mixed quality. Look for the Courtyard Old Salt Chicken at the innermost shop. Their salt-baked chicken is authentically made, with tender skin, juicy meat, and a rich flavor that is unforgettable to this day.
For seaside views, Guangcun Silver Beach (a local beach with shallow waters but not very clear) and Eman Town Volcano Geopark (besides the beach, it features several kilometers of volcanic rock with a “half sea, half flame” natural landscape) are two beaches where you can get close to the water.
For those interested in cultural attractions, Zhonghe Ancient Town and Dongpo Academy (where Su Dongpo lectured and socialized while in Danzhou) can be visited together. The three years of Su Dongpo’s exile here had a significant impact on the small town.
Normally, I’m not particularly interested in these more or less similar celebrity residences. However, the tropical academy, with its lush vegetation and exuberant vitality, strikes me as quite refreshing.
Of course, I believe the spiritual fulfillment from retracing Su Dongpo’s footsteps outweighs the actual sights themselves.
As for Baima Well Fishing Port and Yongquan Market, they are the liveliest spots in Baima Well Town and offer the quintessential experience of exploring a small coastal city.
I think some attractions can be skipped, but the fish market and vegetable market will always greet you with the utmost enthusiasm, making them absolute perpetuators of joy.
I’ve already scoped out the local delicacies in Baima Well for everyone. Danzhou Rice Noodles, prepared with rice noodles and mixed with various fresh vegetables, are particularly refreshing with every bite. Other local treats include Pig Intestine Buns, Salt-Baked Chicken, Redfish Claypot Rice, Qingbuliang (a type of sweet soup), and the extensive seafood food stalls, blending the flavors of both the mountains and the sea without fail.
For a detailed guide to Baima Well Town, please follow this link below 👇
This coastal city, with its free sea views and abundant seafood, is truly a hidden gem!
Recreation Recommendations: Guangcun Silver Beach / Eman Town Volcanic Geopark / Dongpo Academy / Floral Sea Island / Millennium Salt Well / Baima Well Fishing Port / Yongquan Market
Hotel Recommendations: Vienna, Floral Sea Island Hilton
🌊🚗🌊
Changjiang
In Changjiang, the main attraction has to be Chess Bay. In terms of vacation resources, it’s the only remarkable bay and beach along the West Coast.
As a frequent visitor to Chess Bay with four trips under her belt, Caicai is undoubtedly its most loyal promoter. How stunning is the Chess Bay sunset? Caicai once wrote an exclusive article about it👇
Such a scene only exists in heaven, how many times can one witness it on earth?
Moreover, the Chess Bay Kaiyuan Hotel, often inquired about for its frequent 999-yuan two-night room and meal packages, has cultivated my longing for it with its serenity, beautiful sea views, and friendly prices.
As one of the “Top 10 Most Beautiful Bays in Hainan,” Chess Bay’s coastline stretches over 20 kilometers from east to west, divided into three areas: Dajiao (with the best sandy beach), Zhongjiao (shallow waters with pebbles, popular for clamming), and Xiaojiao (best vantage point for sunsets). Usually, the journey starts at Dajiao (with a parking lot) and progresses through the following areas.
For another cultural experience, consider visiting Wangxia Township · Lihuari, a newly opened cultural and tourism town this year. It integrates three natural villages into a tourism zone: Sanpai Village (closest to the entrance with the best natural scenery), Hongshui Village (where you can experience various traditional Li ethnic heritage projects), and Langlun Village (for experiencing local brewing customs).
Although commercial development has made it less pristine, it’s still worth visiting for a taste of the ethnic minority ambiance.
Check out Leilei’s guide to Changjiang for plenty of inspirational ideas👇
300 Yuan for a Seaview Room, 50 Yuan for a Seafood Feast—You’ve Long Known Hainan Island’s Price Paradise
🌊🚗🌊
Dongfang
The final stop along Hainan’s western route naturally has to be Dongfang, a coastal town with fewer crowds but beautiful scenery. Driving into Dongfang, you’ll first pass by Gangmen Village, a seaside fishing village under its jurisdiction. Here, the sea is just a window away, making it a part of everyday life.
Encountering such an authentic fishing village, I’m always willing to linger a bit longer to soak in its tranquility.
Photo credit: Devon’s Mom
For ocean views, Yulinzhou, just steps away from the city center, guarantees your daily sea-watching freedom. The west coast of Hainan Island is dry with little rain. On Yulinzhou Beach, I even stumbled upon numerous cacti, making for some very exotic photographs.
If you’re interested in Hainan’s ethnic minorities, you can drive further inland to Baicha Village to visit the last ancient village of the Li people. Here, you can see the Li people’s distinctive “boat-shaped houses,” retaining their original, non-commercialized aesthetics, making it a secluded paradise.
The food in Dongfang is exceptional, with cheap and plentiful seafood a given. Although Dongfang’s roast suckling pig is low-key, its taste is absolutely stunning. Then there are the thick and savory Dongfang noodles, “Old Dad” tea, and Qingbulian desserts, all highly comforting options.
These delicacies are often found around bustling markets and fishing ports, so you can explore Basuo Fishing Port and Changshun Market while you’re at it.
For a detailed guide to Dongfang, check here👇🏻
The City in Hainan That Understands Happiness Best, Letting You Lie Back with Peace of Mind~
Recommended Activities: Basuo Fishing Port / Changshun Market / Yulinzhou / Gangmen Village / Baicha Village
Hotel Recommendations: Vienna Hotel, Zijinghua Grand Hotel, Four Seasons Aesthetic Hotel, Berman Hotel
///
Driving along this self-driving route, the travel time between cities is generally within 1 to 2 hours, so it’s not particularly exhausting. As for the itinerary, these small coastal towns aren’t large, so allocating about one day each is plenty.
When commercial development makes us feel that many cities are becoming less fun, believe that the natural appearance of cities along Hainan’s west coast can still bring you plenty of delightful surprises.
